Viper 136" clutching and Gearing

yamahaboy701

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Sep 16, 2004
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I finally got a new sled after 2 years without one. Some of you might remember that my other two Yamahas and brand new trailer was stolen back in 2006. But that is old news and my new sled is a 2002 Yamaha viper. Like my last sled I am making this one a 136" with a 136x2" track, expert x skid, and 8 tooth drivers. The sled has stock motor, clutching, and gearing. I am looking for anybody who has had luck with clutching and gearing a 136. I am not sure where to begin or if I will have to do anything different at all?

Other things to consider: Speed is not a factor for me as you could guess with a big lug track, also I will be off trail 70% of the time and on trail only to get off.

Thanks,
Luke
 
You will probably want to gear down to around 1.95-2.00 ratio range in your chaincase.I don't think you have to do anything with clutching to make it work, the gearing is more important, but clutching would certainly help wake things up more.If nobody on here chimes in on clutching get with hartman, he'll know what to do.
 
when I did my Viper I left it alone. I ran the same. The change in r=track and drives both make the stock gearing ok. Your speedo will be off big time. Maxdlx
 
I did a 136 extention but I only run a 1.25" track. I left gearing and clutching as is and have had no problems as of yet. I was going to change the gearing but those yamaha Hyvo gears are not cheap so I left it stock. Let me know how yours works out. All the best!
 
stock with 9 tooth drivers and gearing (22/38) you were at a 1.72 ratio, by just swapping out to the 8 tooth drivers you are now at a 1.94 ratio, so your already geared down without changing the gears in the chaincase. Try it and see. You might need to add just a bit of weight to the clutch ramps as the engine might over rev now if your clutching was perfect before the change.

Whenever you gear a sled down your removing load from the engine, this allows a engine to effectively pull more weight,thus the over rev.
 


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