There is a local grass-dragrace in a few weeks that I´m gonna participate in,
however I´ve never tried running the sled in warmer conditions before.
I searched around a little on jetting and saw a recommendation on 135 Mainjets with 47.5 Pilot jets. It´s getting a bit colder here now, about 10 degrees celcius, (50 degrees Fahrenheit) so I was wondering is it still safe to run those jets? It´s at sealevel..
Or should I go up to say 137.5 MJ and 45 PJ to be safe?
The sled is a -01, with stock motor.
/Adde
however I´ve never tried running the sled in warmer conditions before.
I searched around a little on jetting and saw a recommendation on 135 Mainjets with 47.5 Pilot jets. It´s getting a bit colder here now, about 10 degrees celcius, (50 degrees Fahrenheit) so I was wondering is it still safe to run those jets? It´s at sealevel..
Or should I go up to say 137.5 MJ and 45 PJ to be safe?
The sled is a -01, with stock motor.
/Adde
jmp2204
Member
how far are you dragging? (you can get away with alot in 500')
137.5 mains will be fine, your not on the main jet but for about 150-200 ft in a 500 foot race anyway, hard to blow em up in a short race. Youll need bigger pilots to keep the engine from stumbling on take off. Pilot jets- the 45's will work but the 47.5 will be better if you have a aggressive clutch set up. What do you have for clutching??
Do alot of work to the suspension, thats where alot of gains are to be had with a srx on grass.
Do alot of work to the suspension, thats where alot of gains are to be had with a srx on grass.
jmp2204
Member
hmmmmmm ...such as?mrviper700 said:137.5 mains will be fine, your not on the main jet but for about 150-200 ft in a 500 foot race anyway, hard to blow em up in a short race. Youll need bigger pilots to keep the engine from stumbling on take off. Pilot jets- the 45's will work but the 47.5 will be better if you have a aggressive clutch set up. What do you have for clutching??
Do alot of work to the suspension, thats where alot of gains are to be had with a srx on grass.
It's a 500 feet distance. I haven´t done much with the clutching yet other than the "common" setup from this forum. So I guess that is more of a allround trail-setup..
WWW primary, 2x 4.5g, 51/43 Helix and either red or green secondary spring.
Gearing is at 22/38 at the moment, wich I guess is too high for a dragrace.
I have replaced the 6 stock idler-wheels with the oversize Polaris ones. And I have one "marginal snow" wheel kit up front in the skid, near the bumpstop.
Combine that with a pair of worn out hyfax:es the track spins quite freely.
I´m a bit unsure how to get the supsension tied down correctly. We start on "traction mats" (25 feet long distance of upside down snowmobile tracks).
So if I get too much weight transfer I will get a bad wheelie from the start, wich looks cool but it´s slow.
I read through your post mrviper on the thread below. So that seems to be a good starting point.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27044
I once tried the following: Taking both stock shims on the transfer rods and putting them on the top position. Then I made a larger shim to fill the remaining gap on the bottom. There was no gap at all left on the transfer rods. Then I tied up the limiter straps quite a bit to get the track to sit more flat to the ground. This gave me some strange wheelies from the start tho... Perhaps I need to pull up the limiterstraps even more...
/Adde
WWW primary, 2x 4.5g, 51/43 Helix and either red or green secondary spring.
Gearing is at 22/38 at the moment, wich I guess is too high for a dragrace.
I have replaced the 6 stock idler-wheels with the oversize Polaris ones. And I have one "marginal snow" wheel kit up front in the skid, near the bumpstop.
Combine that with a pair of worn out hyfax:es the track spins quite freely.
I´m a bit unsure how to get the supsension tied down correctly. We start on "traction mats" (25 feet long distance of upside down snowmobile tracks).
So if I get too much weight transfer I will get a bad wheelie from the start, wich looks cool but it´s slow.
I read through your post mrviper on the thread below. So that seems to be a good starting point.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27044
I once tried the following: Taking both stock shims on the transfer rods and putting them on the top position. Then I made a larger shim to fill the remaining gap on the bottom. There was no gap at all left on the transfer rods. Then I tied up the limiter straps quite a bit to get the track to sit more flat to the ground. This gave me some strange wheelies from the start tho... Perhaps I need to pull up the limiterstraps even more...
/Adde
follow that thread you posted on suspension set up and youll need some more aggressive weights for drag racing and a bit steeper gears. If you want a cheapo clutch kit use a set of 8bu-00 weights /4.5 rivet tip only with a grn/wht/grn spring, use your same helix and grn sec spring.
H/c's will give you the best times. For gearing a set of 21/40 would be ideal.
H/c's will give you the best times. For gearing a set of 21/40 would be ideal.

jmp2204
Member
wow thanks for the great info!!!!!!!!