Which rollers to buy?

H

Herky

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Mar 5, 2008
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Iowa
:dunno: OK,Im setting up a clutch for my tripple piped viper and wanting to know what rollers to buy, 15mm or 15.6mm.I will be using 40-10 heel clickers with a 48/36 helix.I'm looking to get the fastest accelration through 1000'ft.
 
smaller rollers = better belt squeeze. your sled should have 14.5,s?
 
Turk said:
smaller rollers = better belt squeeze. your sled should have 14.5,s?
Click to expand...

agreed...i tried larger rollers like the 15's and 15.6's and didn't like 'em at all. took away all the hard pull off the line, that the 14.5's gave me. small rollers=more force...which=harder shift. larger rollers vice versa. herky....IMO stay w/14.5's, you'll be much happier.
 
I thought that i read that you won't be able to hook up with the 14.5 after adding the heel clickers.I am running 96 carbide studs with 48 chisels, so maybe staying with the stock rollers would bennifit me the most.It just seems to me that most people are changing to the bigger rollers.
 
Set up your clutching so you tractor(lug) out of the hole.
Most people have engagement too high & blow their wad & spin out.
Tractoring with minimal traction can be a killer combo on holeshots.
lug em low & they holeshot pretty well(on snow)
 
Based on my experience, I would definitely go with the 15mm rollers. If you read the instructions, with 14 mm rollers, sometimes ( I repeat, SOMETIMES) the weight can touch the sheave at full shift out. Of course you can grind a a little of them to prevent that happen. With 15mm rollers you won't have that problem. The only "problem" here is that you have to grind some of the washers on the heel so they won't touch the rollers when the clutch backshifts. With 15,6 mm rollers I think you will have problems with the heel screw and washers interfering with the rollers at backshift.
 
Turk said:
Set up your clutching so you tractor(lug) out of the hole.
Most people have engagement too high & blow their wad & spin out.
Tractoring with minimal traction can be a killer combo on holeshots.
lug em low & they holeshot pretty well(on snow)
Click to expand...

yeah, originally the hauck setup i was running, was giving me like a 4,500 rpm engagement, which easily spun the track. i now got it down to like 4,200 but want to get down to like 3800-4000. it will holeshot pretty well right now.
 
So in essence, you'd control your initial launch such that you'd get the best traction possible (versus using your track to dig a trench)? Out of the hole, start with slower track speed to hookup, then increase RPM and shift faster at mid range and top end?

I don't mean to sound dumb, but I am not familiar with the term "lug" in this context either.
 
think of it as using the torque of your motor to throwthe sled out and horse power keeps it going.I let my rpm start at 7900 and creep to 8300 or 8400rpm.iam using torque to trow sled for hole shot and horsepower like i sais keeps it going.The sled doesent know were it is so if it goes good on bottom it will also go on top
 
By changing the diameter of the rollers, you can change how your clutch shifts. The smaller diameter, makes your weight shift more aggressive than it is. A smaller roller will lower engagement and shift RPM's, so, if all you do is change rollers to a smaller diameter and leave eveything else the same you will have to adjust your shift profile.
 
I ended up putting the 15's in it.Rode it for the first time today.I just got my slp tripples on with a clutch set up that mrviper gave me.Took out a 2004 zr 900 sno pro from start to finish over and over and over and over. (Got to love That)Having problems with a brand new attack though.Has anyone ran up againts one of these 4 stokers with a tripple piped viper.That things seems pretty dam fast for a stocker.I'll be running into a bunch of f1000's before to long.90% of the guys in my area are on cats.I'm sure the f1000 will get me but i can always say that they have 300cc's on me.
 
i have an slp piped viper and an attak.the viper will beat it if youre set up right.you should spank a stock f1 but i dont think you'll fare as well going up against a crossfire 1000.it all depends how bad you want to win.the more testing you do in all conditions poss. the better you will know how to prepare for youre next race.
 
I think most of my problem is that i still have the original trak with 3500 miles on it.Not much bite in the snow out of the hole versus the attack.I would be interested in how you have your suspension setup if you want to share.Is it best to let the limiter straps all the way out?Also wondering if I could add washers to the bottom side of the transfer rods to pull the suspension down for better starts.Any other ideas would be appreciated.
 
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