schlepp27
New member
I purchased a used 1998 SRX 600 last year with approx 1800 miles on it. I noticed it has a couple of minor upgrades, like a hauck helix and v-force reeds. I'm not sure how the clutching is set up on this sled. I know that at top end, I'm only at about 8000-8100 RPM. My owners manual says it should be around 8500 RPM. Is there any adjustments that I could or should make? I also have 168 picks in the track, is the rotational mass having an effect on RPM? How about the condition of the drive belt, does this have any effect on RPM? Any input would be much appreciated.
check for pulled thru powerevalve cables. i bet u have some pullthru,s.
schlepp27
New member
I've already gone through the powervalves. They have been cleaned, inspected and adjusted. None of the cables have pulled through. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
u will need to give more info for turk to know more about it ...weight ,spring color ,helix
Actually that sled will run best at 8200 rpm low end & nothing over 8400 rpm max
i had 2 of em
an older belt will usually overrev
could be a sacked out primary spring but with those miles i doubt it
let me know what the primary set up is also
those sleds overreved huge with stock clutching...over 9k rpm.
i had 2 of em
an older belt will usually overrev
could be a sacked out primary spring but with those miles i doubt it
let me know what the primary set up is also
those sleds overreved huge with stock clutching...over 9k rpm.
schlepp27
New member
Turk,
Could you tell me what the best set up should be (springs, weights etc.) for both acceleration and top end. Also, where I could find these items. Thanks.
Could you tell me what the best set up should be (springs, weights etc.) for both acceleration and top end. Also, where I could find these items. Thanks.
You might have a great set up in your sled right now & it just needs some tweaking. That,s why i wanna know what is in it now. Don,t spend money you don,t have to.
schlepp27
New member
What should I be looking for for the clutching? The sled is actually at my mechanics right now. He is installing a new track for me(with the family and job, I just don't have time). The original track was starting to seperate. My top end was reading around 100-103mph on the speedo at approx. 8000rpm with a drive belt on the bottom limit of the acceptable parameters(in accordance with the maintenance manual). Would a new drive belt bring this machine back up to where it should be top end?
You need 400 rpm,s to bring up the mph to where they should be. Your down 15-20 hp & 10-12 mph. I need to know
what weights are in it
what size rivets in the weights(actual gram weight would be good too)
what the primary spring is
what the secondary spring is(green or silver dot?)
part # off the helix.
what weights are in it
what size rivets in the weights(actual gram weight would be good too)
what the primary spring is
what the secondary spring is(green or silver dot?)
part # off the helix.
schlepp27
New member
Turk,
I inspected the primary and secondary cluthes today and this is a list of what I found.
Primary Clutch
Spring: Blue-White-Blue
Weights: 8DF-00, which I believe to be stock
Sorry, I wasn't able to identify the rivets
Secondary Clutch
Helix: Hauck Power Sports with a (V) indicator. I spoke with Hauck and the person that can identify this helix will not be available until Monday.
Spring: Black, maybe something that came along with the helix?
I inspected the primary and secondary cluthes today and this is a list of what I found.
Primary Clutch
Spring: Blue-White-Blue
Weights: 8DF-00, which I believe to be stock
Sorry, I wasn't able to identify the rivets
Secondary Clutch
Helix: Hauck Power Sports with a (V) indicator. I spoke with Hauck and the person that can identify this helix will not be available until Monday.
Spring: Black, maybe something that came along with the helix?
Attachments
V helix is 51/45.
Check compression. Try stock primary spring(g/w/g)
That should buy you 2-300 rpm,s.
You should be hitting 8400 with that clutching combo.
Check compression. Try stock primary spring(g/w/g)
That should buy you 2-300 rpm,s.
You should be hitting 8400 with that clutching combo.
schlepp27
New member
Turk,
Thank you for the info and the advice, it is much appreciated! I have checked the compression in all 3 cylinders and it is 135psi across the board with clean powervalves. I had to overhaul one of the cylinders last season. The previous owner put aftermarket pipes on it without rejetting the carbs and it melted the exhaust side of the mag side piston. The stock pipes were then replaced and I inspected the other two pistons and they are in excellent condition. I mixed some oil in with a full tank of gas to aid in the break in of that one cylinder (running rich). When the tank reached close to empty is when I gave a lake run and it would only get to 8000-8100 rpm. Also, the drive belt was worn approx. 1/16" from new condition and the temp that day was around 30deg F. Given these conditions, would this maybe make up for the loss of rpm? I haven't owned the sled long enough to know it's history, but the previous owner told me that it would do 110mph and I was reaching between 100-105mph. I do know that this sled rips up until about 90 or so and then it starts gradually increasing. Also, I have an electronic copy of the service manual and it specifies a (P-G-P) as the stock primary spring for the 600. Should I try that, or go with a (G-W-G) as stated above? Thank you in advance for the help.
Thank you for the info and the advice, it is much appreciated! I have checked the compression in all 3 cylinders and it is 135psi across the board with clean powervalves. I had to overhaul one of the cylinders last season. The previous owner put aftermarket pipes on it without rejetting the carbs and it melted the exhaust side of the mag side piston. The stock pipes were then replaced and I inspected the other two pistons and they are in excellent condition. I mixed some oil in with a full tank of gas to aid in the break in of that one cylinder (running rich). When the tank reached close to empty is when I gave a lake run and it would only get to 8000-8100 rpm. Also, the drive belt was worn approx. 1/16" from new condition and the temp that day was around 30deg F. Given these conditions, would this maybe make up for the loss of rpm? I haven't owned the sled long enough to know it's history, but the previous owner told me that it would do 110mph and I was reaching between 100-105mph. I do know that this sled rips up until about 90 or so and then it starts gradually increasing. Also, I have an electronic copy of the service manual and it specifies a (P-G-P) as the stock primary spring for the 600. Should I try that, or go with a (G-W-G) as stated above? Thank you in advance for the help.
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