151Viper
New member
I am going to hook up a water heater for a boiler in my garage for heat and I have a couple questions if anyone has any experience eith this kind of system.
1. What should I use for fluid in the system? water/glycol/rv antifreeze
2. What temp should the water heater be set at?
3. Piping layout? I have 3 zones in the concrete - 1/2" pex tubing
4. Is there a specific type of circ pump I should use? aquastat?
5. What psi should the system operate at?
Any other info would be appreciated. I am not a plumber or heating tech so any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
1. What should I use for fluid in the system? water/glycol/rv antifreeze
2. What temp should the water heater be set at?
3. Piping layout? I have 3 zones in the concrete - 1/2" pex tubing
4. Is there a specific type of circ pump I should use? aquastat?
5. What psi should the system operate at?
Any other info would be appreciated. I am not a plumber or heating tech so any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
A few ideas
I only have real first hand knowledge with a few of the questions you asked. First, I opted NOT to use a water heater as a boiler because (although it definately does work) they do not heat as efficiently as an actual boiler. If you are doing this, and you want to do it right, get a boiler. Second......water will transfer the heat better than anything but if you are concerned about failure and freeze-up you'd better use the antifreeze.
Madmatt
I only have real first hand knowledge with a few of the questions you asked. First, I opted NOT to use a water heater as a boiler because (although it definately does work) they do not heat as efficiently as an actual boiler. If you are doing this, and you want to do it right, get a boiler. Second......water will transfer the heat better than anything but if you are concerned about failure and freeze-up you'd better use the antifreeze.
Madmatt
Gorkon
New member
I have had experience with installing and operating two of these types of systems. I agree, seek out a proper boiler, use plastic line, not steel pipe, the steel corrodes! Use glycol or glycol water mixture like your radiator in your car! There are many commercial systems available, do your research. Like anything else, time spent in the preparation and quality materials used will pay for itself tenfold in the years to come, trust me! Leaks, corrosion, near death from asphyxiation and more are all things I've dealt with! In the long run, they are awesome systems though and well worth it. Good luck. G.
Oh
I thought you already had the piping in the concrete.....yes, use pex and space it 8-12 inches apart and don't go more than I think 300 lineal feet per loop. On the temperature of the water heater or boiler, whatever you decide to use you should be going by the manufacturers spec....for example....a boiler will heat water more efficiently to 180 degrees than it will to lower temperatures so you should set the boiler to heat to that temperature and use a mixing valve to drop the temp of the water going into the slab to I think about 100 degrees or less. Same would be true when using a water heater except you'll probably find out that they heat more efficiently to a lower temperature than a boiler.....like 120 degrees. As stated above, it's a great way to heat and well worth the $$.
Madmatt
I thought you already had the piping in the concrete.....yes, use pex and space it 8-12 inches apart and don't go more than I think 300 lineal feet per loop. On the temperature of the water heater or boiler, whatever you decide to use you should be going by the manufacturers spec....for example....a boiler will heat water more efficiently to 180 degrees than it will to lower temperatures so you should set the boiler to heat to that temperature and use a mixing valve to drop the temp of the water going into the slab to I think about 100 degrees or less. Same would be true when using a water heater except you'll probably find out that they heat more efficiently to a lower temperature than a boiler.....like 120 degrees. As stated above, it's a great way to heat and well worth the $$.
Madmatt
xsivhp
Active member
I put a 60k gas unit heater in my garage a couple of years ago - works great and not too expensive.
stein700sx
VIP Member
If using a water heater I would go with an open system.Meaning that there will be no pressure in the system. Set the water heater no higher than 100
Use a bronze pump or if you want a stainless steel pump. In the water heater remove the "flip-flop" and hook the run the two elements on seperate breakers.This will allow a better heat recovery in the system You can use 220v thermostats in the room to control the temperature and run the pump constantly.On the top of the water tank remove the blow-off valve and reduce a piece of 4" ABS pipe ( about three feet long). This will give you room for expansion in the system.
Use an enviroment friendly glycol ( in case it ever leaks).You can build your own manifold. I would use atleast 3/4 pex pipe and tee off each loop.Run the loops in parallel.
The smaller the water tank the more effecient the system will be.
Use a bronze pump or if you want a stainless steel pump. In the water heater remove the "flip-flop" and hook the run the two elements on seperate breakers.This will allow a better heat recovery in the system You can use 220v thermostats in the room to control the temperature and run the pump constantly.On the top of the water tank remove the blow-off valve and reduce a piece of 4" ABS pipe ( about three feet long). This will give you room for expansion in the system.
Use an enviroment friendly glycol ( in case it ever leaks).You can build your own manifold. I would use atleast 3/4 pex pipe and tee off each loop.Run the loops in parallel.
The smaller the water tank the more effecient the system will be.
I'm just curious why the boiler system for the garage in the first place?
I like hot water heat don't get me wrong. It's quiet, it isn't as dry as forced air, and it doesn't kick up dust. But in a garage you have freezing issues and on top of that if the radiatiors are imbedded in the concrete floor, when the garage gets cold you have one big slab o' rock to heat up before the floor will start emmitting heat. Unless you're going to keep the heat in the garage on continously I would look at other more efficent and less costly options.
I like hot water heat don't get me wrong. It's quiet, it isn't as dry as forced air, and it doesn't kick up dust. But in a garage you have freezing issues and on top of that if the radiatiors are imbedded in the concrete floor, when the garage gets cold you have one big slab o' rock to heat up before the floor will start emmitting heat. Unless you're going to keep the heat in the garage on continously I would look at other more efficent and less costly options.
stein700sx
VIP Member
Floor heat
Cons:
Slow to heat up and slow to cool down.
Requires an exhaust system to get rid of humid air.
Cost more than a 5kw construction heater
Your case of beer left on the floor will always be warm
Pros:
Heats everything in your shop. Not just the air.
Always have a warm floor to work on.
The garage door never freezes down to the floor.
Once up to temp , requires very liitle energy to maintain that temp
Very quiet source of heat
All the ice will be melted out of your sled by the morning
Cons:
Slow to heat up and slow to cool down.
Requires an exhaust system to get rid of humid air.
Cost more than a 5kw construction heater
Your case of beer left on the floor will always be warm
Pros:
Heats everything in your shop. Not just the air.
Always have a warm floor to work on.
The garage door never freezes down to the floor.
Once up to temp , requires very liitle energy to maintain that temp
Very quiet source of heat
All the ice will be melted out of your sled by the morning
DV8
VIP Member
From what I have witnessed it is a great system. My father in law has a outside wood boiler, that not only heats his house first, then routes to his garage, then the pole barn. Everything in those storage areas is at least 60 degree's all winter. warm floor to work on warm car to get into, Granted he has a large boiler and free wood, very cheap to operate. I want One.
Yamidude59
New member
151Viper said:I am going to hook up a water heater for a boiler in my garage for heat and I have a couple questions if anyone has any experience eith this kind of system.
1. What should I use for fluid in the system? water/glycol/rv antifreeze
Theres a specific fluid your supposed to use, its called Noburst you can find it at a Hvac outlet, those types of places are usually wholesale and you gotta be in the field of work to buy it, water would work fine if its going to run continously
2. What temp should the water heater be set at?
between 130- and 140 degrees
3. Piping layout? I have 3 zones in the concrete - 1/2" pex tubing
4. Is there a specific type of circ pump I should use? aquastat?
Taco(tay-co) brand pumps work well in my experience
5. What psi should the system operate at?
not much at all, 10-12 psi
Any other info would be appreciated. I am not a plumber or heating tech so any help is appreciated.
water heater is going to take too long to heat up your water, better off using strait boiler, water heater does not have the "firepower" that the boiler has.
Thanks in advance.
Hope that helps you out