Studding an SRX with stock drivers - Maybe a dumb question

[Zachalyse]

Studding a 1.25" track with stock drivers - Maybe a dumb question

I'm putting a 1.25 ripsaw on my SRX. I have read just about every post there is regarding the risk and the claim that you must go 8 tooth to be safe. I'm not real keen on the issues 8 tooth could give. ie. ratcheting, re-gearing, top end loss, etc.
I ran a 1.25" ice ripper on my Viper last year and it worked well, but still nothing like studs.

So, here is my question, dumb as it may seem:
Why is it such a rule that studs should protrude a certian minumum length above the lug for performance. While I agree this to be true for optimal performance, wouldn't a stud with minimal protrusion still be a benefit. Afterall, tracks are made of rubber and lugs will bend, so the stud is still working in some manner. Why couldn't I stud my 1.25" with say a 1.25" or 1.275" (just slightly taller than lug), understanding I'm not getting optimal performance out of the studs, but one would think still better than the ice ripper?

I also wonder is the fact that I'm running a ZX2 suspension will have any effect on the angle in turn effecting the clearence compared to stock?

 

[xsivhp]

it's my opinion that unless you go for full penetration you will end up with the same compromise as the ice ripper. If you runs studs you'll want 1/4" past the track. The reason for the 8 tooth drivers is to create clearance (take a look up there - minimal clearance) understanding there is some increased rolling resistance of the track around the drivers, you could always run a pair of 8 tooth extroverts to eliminate the ratcheting.

the whole thing ends up snowmballing and gets expensive. lol!!

the zx2 should have about the same approach angle as any other skid, from what I've read that is pretty much standard on 121" sleds at 17 degrees. I'm guessing from a design standpoint that approach angle has something to do with the pitch of the track and keeping the rails from poking thru the windows at speed. (not a pretty sight)

 

[Roost 'Er]

I'm putting a 1.25 ripsaw on my SRX. I have read just about every post there is regarding the risk and the claim that you must go 8 tooth to be safe. I'm not real keen on the issues 8 tooth could give. ie. ratcheting, re-gearing, top end loss, etc.
I ran a 1.25" ice ripper on my Viper last year and it worked well, but still nothing like studs.

So, here is my question, dumb as it may seem:
Why is it such a rule that studs should protrude a certian minumum length above the lug for performance. While I agree this to be true for optimal performance, wouldn't a stud with minimal protrusion still be a benefit. Afterall, tracks are made of rubber and lugs will bend, so the stud is still working in some manner. Why couldn't I stud my 1.25" with say a 1.25" or 1.275" (just slightly taller than lug), understanding I'm not getting optimal performance out of the studs, but one would think still better than the ice ripper?

I also wonder is the fact that I'm running a ZX2 suspension will have any effect on the angle in turn effecting the clearence compared to stock?

First ZX2 wont change the placement of your driveshaft, the sled still needs to spin the same track around the same drivers.

Second without penetration you wont experience the gains of studs. You would be better off to run the ice ripper as it will be lighter. The problem that you will experience with studs that dont pretrude the track is they will more or less scratch the surface instead of digging in and giving you that bite. Good is example is compare a chisel to a trail stud, chisel digs right into the ice, trail stud bigger tip, carbide wont drive itself into the ice as much. Im going 8t extroverts this year also, bitch to swap but allows me to run the cobra with studs and they are anti ratcheting so win win.