Last season I changed my clutch setup based on the tech page for trail performance (1997 700SX) . The sled performed great, however, I experienced two extremely nasty belt failures that caused damage to the footwells, belt guard, speedo pickup, speedo cable, etc., not to mention that fact that it scared the hell out of me.
It may have been the crappy Ultimax belts I was running or it could be other issues. I thought maybe it was clutch alignment, so I spoke to a knowledgable friend that resently sold his Yamaha dealership. He told me that it was very rare that a stock motor would suddenly go out of alignment. He told me to check the clutches for wear.
Last year while changing out the Helix (per tech page) I replaced the buttons on the secondary. So these are all in good shape.
I thought I would start by looking at the Primary. I have yet to pull the primary, however, I want to order what I need so I can put it back together the same day:
Questions:
Are the six sliders on the primary the only wear items to replace on the primary? Should I order anything else?
I can grab the secondary and move it side to side on the drive shaft. How much play should be there?
Anything else I should look for?
Anyone have any idea why I gernated two belts in about 700 miles?
At the time of failure the clutches were so hot I could not touch them.
Thanks to all for any advice.
It may have been the crappy Ultimax belts I was running or it could be other issues. I thought maybe it was clutch alignment, so I spoke to a knowledgable friend that resently sold his Yamaha dealership. He told me that it was very rare that a stock motor would suddenly go out of alignment. He told me to check the clutches for wear.
Last year while changing out the Helix (per tech page) I replaced the buttons on the secondary. So these are all in good shape.
I thought I would start by looking at the Primary. I have yet to pull the primary, however, I want to order what I need so I can put it back together the same day:
Questions:
Are the six sliders on the primary the only wear items to replace on the primary? Should I order anything else?
I can grab the secondary and move it side to side on the drive shaft. How much play should be there?
Anything else I should look for?
Anyone have any idea why I gernated two belts in about 700 miles?
At the time of failure the clutches were so hot I could not touch them.
Thanks to all for any advice.
ANY THOUGHTs?
Any input would be much appreciated
Any input would be much appreciated
1st thong, OEM 8dn belts are the only way to go. Your clutch aligment is very very importain.....if your cltuches are hot you belt is not being held tight enough. Also, check you center bushing on the primary.....but the thing is not efficient, thats the problem....what set up are you running....I have been running sx700 since they 1st came out???
MrSled
I just bought an 8DN belt that I will be running this year. The last two belts were Ultimax which I was forced to buy when I forgot to buy a spare and was upnorth when one blew and had no option of going to the dealer.
For all I know, the guy who sold me the belts gave me the wrong ones.
Last season I performed the following per the Tech Page:
51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 layer removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains
along with reed spacers and the silencer mod.
The sled ran awesome. It was so much more responsive than the year before. I was a blast to ride.
I just orderd (6) sliders for the primary.
Will I have to pull the carbs to get to the engine mounts to perform the clutch alignment? I guess I will have to make or buy a clutch alignment tool.
Any other insight?
THANKS
I just bought an 8DN belt that I will be running this year. The last two belts were Ultimax which I was forced to buy when I forgot to buy a spare and was upnorth when one blew and had no option of going to the dealer.
For all I know, the guy who sold me the belts gave me the wrong ones.
Last season I performed the following per the Tech Page:
51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 layer removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains
along with reed spacers and the silencer mod.
The sled ran awesome. It was so much more responsive than the year before. I was a blast to ride.
I just orderd (6) sliders for the primary.
Will I have to pull the carbs to get to the engine mounts to perform the clutch alignment? I guess I will have to make or buy a clutch alignment tool.
Any other insight?
THANKS
there is info on the Tech Pages to help you make your won clutch tools...what weight are you running in the primary??? 8ab ..Carbs dont have to come off, but the air box and pipe will.
MrSled,
I am using stock weights. I assume they are 8CH-17605-00-00 based on the Yamaha parts diagram for a 1997 700 SX.
What about the side to side play on the secondary???
How much is normal?
I am using stock weights. I assume they are 8CH-17605-00-00 based on the Yamaha parts diagram for a 1997 700 SX.
What about the side to side play on the secondary???
How much is normal?
try using 8ab with 2.7 g in both holes, YGY spring......1/16 worth if play is ok....side to side on the sec.
MrSled
What will these weights and spring do for me?
I was happy with the setup last year. Will this setup provide less stress on the belt?
I am worried about RPMs also. Currently it runs right about 8700 if I remember correctly, which should be right on.
What do you think?
What will these weights and spring do for me?
I was happy with the setup last year. Will this setup provide less stress on the belt?
I am worried about RPMs also. Currently it runs right about 8700 if I remember correctly, which should be right on.
What do you think?
NO, thats too hi...that means the belt is slipping ....8300 rpm max....you are out over the peak HP...and slipping the belt. You want it to pull to 8200 and then climb to 8300 on max speed with a single pipe. You may over rev on take off from lack of traction but once it hooks ..it should pull down.
It's really hard to remember.
I know I asked last year what the correct RPM should be and I was right on. Maybe I was running at 8300.
If I was at 8700, should I go back to stock gearing?
I know I asked last year what the correct RPM should be and I was right on. Maybe I was running at 8300.
If I was at 8700, should I go back to stock gearing?
add more weight to the primary, or try the 8ab...gearing will only change your speed. Not your power transfer or efficiency.
T H A N K S M r S l e d !!!!!
Thanks for your help.
I guess I really need to get out and run it with a NEW BELT before I make any changes. I need to set a base line.
The crappy belts I was running last year could have thrown off my RPMS. Unfortunatley, this means that I have to wrench on my sled in the cold, if I need to change anything.
Are you confident with your clutch setup recommendations on my sled with the mods I have??
It would be nice to have it ready without having to mess with it once the snow flies.
Thanks again!!
Thanks for your help.
I guess I really need to get out and run it with a NEW BELT before I make any changes. I need to set a base line.
The crappy belts I was running last year could have thrown off my RPMS. Unfortunatley, this means that I have to wrench on my sled in the cold, if I need to change anything.
Are you confident with your clutch setup recommendations on my sled with the mods I have??
It would be nice to have it ready without having to mess with it once the snow flies.
Thanks again!!
I am pretty confident but I would run the new belt in 1st, it will over rev for the 1st 100 miles or less tell it breaks in. I really dont want you to spend more money on new weights...but those 8ab are the best we have found to run in a 700 triple single pipes.