dirtjumper895
New member
Hey all, my set up is:
04 Viper Mountain
Speedwerx Ceramic Coated Triples with Stingers
Speedwerx Billet Head 12:1 domes
So, being a 04 + machine, my viper came equipped with the DCS system. I have read through all of the dcs threads, but i do not feel that there was one that addresses my issue.
The speedwerx head does not come equipped with a bung for the DCS Sensor to mount to. So, after some careful looking, I am thinking, i am going to have to tig weld on a aluminum bung i spin up on my lathe to the water-rail and thread the sensor in there. From looking at the stock head, i saw that the sensor just threads into the casting, not into the actual water passage. So i figure by welding on a bung to the outside of the water rail, and then tapping it for the 10mm sensor, it should act like normal.
Am i correct in thinking this?
I have also researched the theory behind the knock sensor. It seems that the knock sensor basically picks up a very narrow frequency caused by detonation.
The second issue i am wondering about is, about the coolant pressure. I am going to run a aftermarket ball valve int he coolant system to control my carb heat now since i can not use the stock piece which is built into the stock head. I am figuring the coolant system pressure is around 15-20 psi, so a small brass ball valve should work? What do you all think about this?
In all of this, i am wanting to keep the dcs system functional, since it may be a benefical feature to have. Do you guys know of any other threads out there with someone running the speedwerx head WITH DCS?
Feel free to add input as nessecarry. I will try and take some pictures as i get stuff fabbed up and tested. Also shoot my idea down if you guys feel it is not going to work or i am bound for catastrophic failure.
Thanks!
Jeff
oh yea......
04 Viper Mountain
Speedwerx Ceramic Coated Triples with Stingers
Speedwerx Billet Head 12:1 domes
So, being a 04 + machine, my viper came equipped with the DCS system. I have read through all of the dcs threads, but i do not feel that there was one that addresses my issue.
The speedwerx head does not come equipped with a bung for the DCS Sensor to mount to. So, after some careful looking, I am thinking, i am going to have to tig weld on a aluminum bung i spin up on my lathe to the water-rail and thread the sensor in there. From looking at the stock head, i saw that the sensor just threads into the casting, not into the actual water passage. So i figure by welding on a bung to the outside of the water rail, and then tapping it for the 10mm sensor, it should act like normal.
Am i correct in thinking this?
I have also researched the theory behind the knock sensor. It seems that the knock sensor basically picks up a very narrow frequency caused by detonation.
The second issue i am wondering about is, about the coolant pressure. I am going to run a aftermarket ball valve int he coolant system to control my carb heat now since i can not use the stock piece which is built into the stock head. I am figuring the coolant system pressure is around 15-20 psi, so a small brass ball valve should work? What do you all think about this?
In all of this, i am wanting to keep the dcs system functional, since it may be a benefical feature to have. Do you guys know of any other threads out there with someone running the speedwerx head WITH DCS?
Feel free to add input as nessecarry. I will try and take some pictures as i get stuff fabbed up and tested. Also shoot my idea down if you guys feel it is not going to work or i am bound for catastrophic failure.
Thanks!
Jeff
oh yea......
Last edited:
dirtjumper895
New member
I got all my brass parts to make this work. Going to try and machine a sweet looking bung and weld it up tonight.... Also got my orings today for the head. should be ready to go soon.
On a side note, i wont need a wrench to turn on or off my carb heat anymore....
On a side note, i wont need a wrench to turn on or off my carb heat anymore....
dirtjumper895
New member
Got my bung machined up, have the head in the dryrod oven, preheated to 350 degrees, going to weld it up tomarrow...
The plan with the preheat is to get a better weld, and to minimize warpage... After welding, i am going to put it back in the dryrod oven and let it cool back down slowly.
The plan with the preheat is to get a better weld, and to minimize warpage... After welding, i am going to put it back in the dryrod oven and let it cool back down slowly.
Hi Jeff, I think youll be fine and your welding up the aluminum the right way by pre heating it. I believe youll find the stock sensor is almost too sensative and when you add pipes or other mods it just likes to go off and blink, retarding the timing and slowing the sled down. I give out jetting set ups for srx/vipers and the ones with dcs will almost always have to go up a few sizes or mix in race fuel to keep the light content and off, yet the very same engine in a year older sled will run just fine with no signs of detonation. So what I am getting at is if you can reduce its sensativity even a little by moving it out a bit from the cylinders, I believe from past trials youll benefit. Good luck and post some pics of your work. 
dirtjumper895
New member
mrviper700 said:Hi Jeff, I think youll be fine and your welding up the aluminum the right way by pre heating it. I believe youll find the stock sensor is almost too sensative and when you add pipes or other mods it just likes to go off and blink, retarding the timing and slowing the sled down. I give out jetting set ups for srx/vipers and the ones with dcs will almost always have to go up a few sizes or mix in race fuel to keep the light content and off, yet the very same engine in a year older sled will run just fine with no signs of detonation. So what I am getting at is if you can reduce its sensativity even a little by moving it out a bit from the cylinders, I believe from past trials youll benefit. Good luck and post some pics of your work.
Well its a relief you said that. The bung i made ended up being a little farther from the center of the combusion chamber when compared to the stock setup. I got it all welded up, was going to assemble it tonight, but went to a buddies to get a torque wrench to torque the head bolts, and spent a little too much time bs'ing with him... So hopefully ill get it together tomorrow.
05mtnvipermod
New member
how much of a difference are we talking about here mrviper700? i would like to desensitize my dcs a little as i have a piped viper with dcs and it goes off unneccesarily. maybe just space it with a brass washer? or we need like 1/2"?
dirtjumper895
New member
Well i finally got to take it out for a little while today on a couple inches of snow on my pond. Seemed to run good, got the cooling system mostly bled, coolers get nice and warm to the touch.
However, when hopping on the thottle, the DCS light blinked a couple times and then i hopped off the throttle. I am still running older gas (about the last gallon left in the tank) so i will probably attribute the DCS light coming on due to that.
I will fill the tank with fresh premium, and hopefully take it for a rip sometime on Monday the 1st, up in Houghton where there is actually some snow...
Also, my jetting is still fat,
current settings are 165mj
45pj
needle 5th pos.
f/s 1 7/8
going to switch back to 160 mj
47.5 PJ
F/s 1 7/8
needle 4th pos.
and see how that is.... Once my jets get in which will probably be monday as well.
However, when hopping on the thottle, the DCS light blinked a couple times and then i hopped off the throttle. I am still running older gas (about the last gallon left in the tank) so i will probably attribute the DCS light coming on due to that.
I will fill the tank with fresh premium, and hopefully take it for a rip sometime on Monday the 1st, up in Houghton where there is actually some snow...
Also, my jetting is still fat,
current settings are 165mj
45pj
needle 5th pos.
f/s 1 7/8
going to switch back to 160 mj
47.5 PJ
F/s 1 7/8
needle 4th pos.
and see how that is.... Once my jets get in which will probably be monday as well.
Is it possible to install a 2002 SRX water rail?
Mrvipers jetting reccomendations are dead accurate. I verified them by looking at my plugs at all throttle positions. The DCS sensor is not very forgiving towards motor mods. Never heard of non-DCS models ever blowing up or detonating with his port work and jetting reccommendations.mrviper700 said:Hi Jeff, I think youll be fine and your welding up the aluminum the right way by pre heating it. I believe youll find the stock sensor is almost too sensative and when you add pipes or other mods it just likes to go off and blink, retarding the timing and slowing the sled down. I give out jetting set ups for srx/vipers and the ones with dcs will almost always have to go up a few sizes or mix in race fuel to keep the light content and off, yet the very same engine in a year older sled will run just fine with no signs of detonation. So what I am getting at is if you can reduce its sensativity even a little by moving it out a bit from the cylinders, I believe from past trials youll benefit. Good luck and post some pics of your work.
You can simply add a plastic oil plug washer from a 69 Ford pick-up under the sensor and your problems will go away. If you need a safe jetting set-up to go along with your current motor mods, he can provide you with it.
BLUEMONSTER!!!!! Stay outa this LOL Your motor is stock!!!
God bless your sensor
