Studded Predator Track in sx

sleddineinar

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I bought my sled last year (98 Vmax 700sx). I'm going through the skid right now. I was looking at my track, I thought about replacing it, but it looks like it has at least couple of good years in it yet. but my studs need some help. I was thinking of replacing them.

Here are my questions. It looks like the track is a 1.25" (measuring from the back of track to top of lug). It has a part number on it, but it must be old (I wanted verify height) because I can't find that number on any track sites. The part number is 700-9849. Does anybody know if that is a 1.25" of 1".

If it's a 1.25" with studs, how is that fitting in my sled? I checked the drivers (9 tooth), and it still has the tunnel protectors. I thought you couldn't run a 1.25" in a 98 Vmax 700sx without modifying something to gain the clearance?

Now for the studs: Currently it has about 120 (missing a few, but only four pull-thrus) snow stuff studs with ultra-lite backers. What should I replace them with? I was thinking woody's signature series, but what size should I get? And what backers should I get? I want to stay lightweight.
 
I have just swapped out the OEM track on my 99 sx with a 1" predator track (that is when I discovered my W Arm in pieces). I did some research and I think many people agree that predator is a superb track. I have have not heard anything bad about it. I stayed with 1" lug so I didn't have to swap out my drivers. I consulted with BufaloBob who performs R&D for Bender and has tested different tracks and setups. Because I can never seem to hookup, he recommended going with 144 1.075 megabites (48 angled double diggers and 48 angled singles). I have not run this setup before, but they claim to wear better and hook up better than gold diggers. As for the stainless, I have not ran them, you'll hear good and bad. I do know they are less expensive because since they are SS and thus do not go through the steel hardening process.

Here is part of a PM from BETHEVIPER had sent me, I'll forward the entire message to you:

pro action chassis are designed around a 3/4 in track. any material above 3/4in will rub on the guards at speeds above 70ish. when i say floor talking about the part of the track that the stud washer would lay on. if you cut the lug below 3/4in, you could have the studs dig into the tunnel.
it just needs to be trimed to this height where the lug would hit the guards, make sure that you cut the clearence for both the tunnel and heat exchanger guards, sometimes they dont line up.

the reason for the predator track is it has very few center lugs and alows for air and snow to exit the tunnel as well as makes the studs more exposed to do something. these are the fastest 1in tracks, think the number is 9830 or 9837

for speed and traction, go with a 6pitch predator 1in track, then isntall 144-168 1.2 woodys chissles down the center, use double backers where you can.

i used this setup on my viper first year and on the hard pack it would show me 122 on the speedo with stock viper

using this track, you willneed to make sure you clip all the lugs over the windows down to 3/4in off the floor of the track so it will clear the guards

I didn't answer all your questions, but hopefully this helps...

Thanks,
Craig
 
what type riding do you do. Hook up is not all about the track but about suspension set up. on hard pack I hook up great with 48 studs and run ice runs with this set up.
I would not run more then a 1" track as it becomes a pain for studding and really slows you down..If your 700sx is stock you dont need 144 studs. The right track, suspensions set up and studs will provide hook up.
 
i would still consider your sled fairly stock...they key is stud penetration.
I pulled my sled out and double checked, I am running 96 studs and I have a ported, tripple piped 700 and hook up just fine. I always try and get about a 1/2 inch of stud penetration. Tall lugs are good when you ride the deep powder but if you ride trails and lakes a shorter lug with more stud penetration.
 


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