just got a new 2000 phazer 500 long story short. Got a bit of a bog i dont like of the take off .. just bottom end from about 0 to 30 kilometers , the mid range is just lovely. is the stock clutch adjustable? does anyone have another idea?
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if someone could help me out it would be greatly aprreciated, please and thanks.
Could be jetting. Try cleaning the carbs 1st. Then check for worn bushings in the primary clutch. It is a 485 fanner!!!!
What Turk said, plus make sure the rubber plugs in the carb bowls are in the center holes. Once you are sure the carbs are clean, adjust the idle mixture and speed.
oh ya, that sounds like a good idea, havent check them out yet. but i dont think its the problem.. it has enough power, just under 20 kilometers in the powder it doesnt have that snap to get the track spinning. ill get to the carbs tonight n clean them out n try that.
Can you tell if it is a lean bog? You may need to open your pilot screws a bit. I start at 1 1/2 turns out, then go in until it idles best, and then back out until it reacts to throttle the best (usually 1/4 turn or so).
On the other hand if it is a rich bog, it may be a number of things.
On the other hand if it is a rich bog, it may be a number of things.
i dunno wat it is.. would a cluth kit help? maybe v force reeds. its like when im in the deep powder if im doing over 30 sometimes 40 kilometers through it i can crack the throttle and get it spinning to 80 kilometers not any lack of power. but if its under pressure in the deep snow doing around 5-10 kilometers and crack the throttle it just bogs it perly spins
. Maybe its not cold enough yet, cause it is a fan, the temperature is average around -10 to -5 degrees
. Maybe its not cold enough yet, cause it is a fan, the temperature is average around -10 to -5 degrees
When you say bogs, do you mean the engine rpm's drop and fail to increase with added throttle. Or do you mean the engine revs, but the sled simply doesn't go. Let us know what the rpm's are doing in this condition compared to what they do without the bog.
Those temps are fine with stock jetting although there is room to jet down. Above 0C temps is where that engine really slows down.
Those temps are fine with stock jetting although there is room to jet down. Above 0C temps is where that engine really slows down.
I get a kick out of the term "clutch kit", or folks saying that their sled is "clutched" . . .
All sleds are "clutched" from the factory with a setup that is the all around best for the widest variety of conditions and driving styles. The amount of testing that goes into that initial setup usually far exceeds any aftermarket efforts that go into a "clutch kit". These "clutch kits" are simply someone's idea of what works better for a specific condition and driving style. This works out well for a given type of racing, but usually not so well for trail riding.
That being said, you can most definitely tune your clutches for the conditions and driving style that suit you. What you can't do is simply buy a "kit" that will be magic for you. If the stock setup isn't working very well, there is usually a problem somewhere that will only be magnified by a "clutch kit". On sites like these you will find a number of setups that different folks have found work well for them. The ones that have tested these setups across a good number of actual sleds of a certain model and hp, are usually very good starting points.
I don't mean to be condescending or patronizing in any way, and if I seem so I apologize in advance. I just thought I would share one man's opinion.
Gearing a 2000 Phazer down 2 teeth on top really wakes them up. You really don't lose much top end except for perfect low drag conditions (hardpack with light snow on top).
All sleds are "clutched" from the factory with a setup that is the all around best for the widest variety of conditions and driving styles. The amount of testing that goes into that initial setup usually far exceeds any aftermarket efforts that go into a "clutch kit". These "clutch kits" are simply someone's idea of what works better for a specific condition and driving style. This works out well for a given type of racing, but usually not so well for trail riding.
That being said, you can most definitely tune your clutches for the conditions and driving style that suit you. What you can't do is simply buy a "kit" that will be magic for you. If the stock setup isn't working very well, there is usually a problem somewhere that will only be magnified by a "clutch kit". On sites like these you will find a number of setups that different folks have found work well for them. The ones that have tested these setups across a good number of actual sleds of a certain model and hp, are usually very good starting points.
I don't mean to be condescending or patronizing in any way, and if I seem so I apologize in advance. I just thought I would share one man's opinion.
Gearing a 2000 Phazer down 2 teeth on top really wakes them up. You really don't lose much top end except for perfect low drag conditions (hardpack with light snow on top).
PZ 1
Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 987
Ding said:
^^^^^Good words^^^^^^
As said, a bog like that is usually a fuel problem. Until you have cleaned and set the carbs, don't even let the clutch enter your mind. The sled did not leave the factory with a problem like that, so there is no need to change to the different clutch parts in an aftermarket kit or V-force reeds. Get all the original parts working the they should and the sled will run fine. The clutch may have some worn parts that could cause a problem, but they last a long time with the horsepower of a Phazer so unless it is a very high mileage sled, the clutch is probably okay. A drive belt that is worn thin could cause a bog.
about last week me and my buddy were out sleddin in the pole line, there was this hill maybe bout 30ft long and not too steep i had about a 20 foot headstart. i didnt even make it half way because it wouldnt build up enough speed it just bogged at full pin. but on the road n packed down trails its good no bogging at midrange.. just low range, the rpms go to bout 5500 6000 when floored (bogging)
Hey ding do u mean the gears in the chain case?
Hey ding do u mean the gears in the chain case?
900
New member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2004
- Messages
- 7
I had a similar problem with my sons 99 Phazer. When taking off under load (deep snow) it would feel like it was bogging and under powered. On hard pack it worked awsome. I checked everything I could think of and finally one day we were out and I decided to swap out the belt, night and day difference. It had the original belt with 3500 km's and it was worn enough on the sides that it was like taking off in high gear.
Try a new belt, it might be the answer for your sled.
Try a new belt, it might be the answer for your sled.
Also check the pistons. Rebuilt one last year that did the same thing, New piston and rings solved it.
on1_wheel
New member
ding...whats good compression on a 485 fan..thinking 125-135?? or higher??
JordanHall488
New member
a few years back my phazer was bogging on low end, but once i got going i was fine. took clutch apart an cleaned it, good as new after that...
I have a 99 phazer that acts this way as well. Seems like the belt slips as well. I also tried changing the belt and it was better, not perfect, but better. I might try putting some more load on the secondary spring or more twist. Almost seems like the belt is dropping in the secondary clutch and putting the sled into high gear when under load.
RJH
New member
If you think the engine is fine..just tighten the secondary..you are about 1000 rpm off.
Yes500Phazer said:
120 - 130 is good as long as they are within 10% of each other. 90 is bad.on1_wheel said:
Sounds like some of these need the clutches rebuilt and possibly springs replaced.