backcountry_vmax
New member
has anyone made a set of drop brackets to raise the rear of your i really want a set but there too damn expensive.
After a ton of research on many internet forum and manfacturer sites I did the following . . .
I ordered 2 pieces of 6160-T6 aluminum cut to 12" x 5" and 1/2" thick. I plan to round the bottom corners, and drill holes to bolt to the tunnel using stock steel backer plates on the outside. I plan to countersink drill some rivet holes as well. Then I will carefully place 2 or 3 mount holes coordinated with each side and the front mount holes.
I ordered 2 pieces of 6160-T6 aluminum cut to 12" x 5" and 1/2" thick. I plan to round the bottom corners, and drill holes to bolt to the tunnel using stock steel backer plates on the outside. I plan to countersink drill some rivet holes as well. Then I will carefully place 2 or 3 mount holes coordinated with each side and the front mount holes.
Metal will be here next week, and I will post pics of how it goes.
I think that aluminum was less than $30 total.
I also ordered several thinner plates in 7075-T6 for the front mounts and stops. The whole order shipped was only $70.
I think that aluminum was less than $30 total.
I also ordered several thinner plates in 7075-T6 for the front mounts and stops. The whole order shipped was only $70.
backcountry_vmax
New member
that gives me a pretty good idea but could you just drill out the rivets for the backer plate and just use two bolts to bolt the bracket to the tunnel(you would also have to drill a new hole)
Yeah. I happen to have structural rivets and Stavex rivets on the shelf along with a quality air riveter, so I go ahead and use them. Bolts should be fine, although you may want to add a couple.
backcountry_vmax
New member
how many bolts do you recommend? i was going to use two of the same size of bolt that is used the cross shaft. also if i used one bolt in the stock hole and one an inch about it and dropped the rear 2.5 inches would the bolts catch the track
I forgot to mention that I plan to machine the edges down and place the bolts there. You could also countersink them in. The stock ones usually have nuts welded to the back side of the plates. As long as you don't use a bolt that extends past the nut, and the nut is less than the clearance they shouldn't catch the track. The tunnel is usually 16.5 wide and the track is only 15 so you that leaves 1.5 to play with. Most skid shafts are 15.5 wide or more, so where you put bolts or nuts needs to be less than half the difference (1 inch in this case). I plan to machine the edges down to .25 inch. It is also possible to keep the bolt above the track. Basically the half the diameter of the carrier wheel plus the thickness of the track is as high above the skid mount point that the track will travell unless it balloons which usually doesn't happen there.
I would use a minumum of 3 bolts and prefer 4. You will want to eliminate any lateral movement of the bracket and 2 may not accomplish that. Especially so close together. The farther you drop the more force will be placed on the tunnel mount points. It is basically a lever.
I would use a minumum of 3 bolts and prefer 4. You will want to eliminate any lateral movement of the bracket and 2 may not accomplish that. Especially so close together. The farther you drop the more force will be placed on the tunnel mount points. It is basically a lever.
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