I wanted to check the bearing on the end of the drive shaft under the secondary as it's been a few years since it's been changed and I found that the shaft has wore a little bit.Somewhere along the time since I changed the bearing last the locking set screws came loose enough to allow the race to spin just enough to wear the end a bit.I'm going to replace the bearing anyway but what I want to know is if anyone has had any luck fixing a wore shaft without removing the drive cogs and taking the shaft to a machine shop to have the wore spot built up and turned town again.I really don't want to get into taking those cogs off.The end isn't wore all that bad I mean if I could get a new bearing that is just about 1/2 a thou oversize i/d I may be able to just true up the bad end and go.I have used a product from Permatex before on a loose fitting bearing at work,it was silver and some kind of loctite product if I remember right.I believe it is supposed to help take up slack between a shaft and a bearing or some such thing but don't know if it would stand up to the abuse the drive shaft sees.Plus I really don't want it locked onto the shaft making that much harder to change next time.
rx1jim
New member
A new drive axle is about $120. A few years ago I had the speedo side bearing seize up and score up the shaft pretty bad so I replaced the shaft. I have the old shaft and will be turning the diameter down by about 0.030" than I will press on a steel sleeve and turn it down to the correct dia.. Pressing the drive wheels off then back on is pretty simple. To be safe, i would either put a new shaft in, repair the shaft as I have described or get a good, used shaft for a replacement. Its too important a bearing and shaft to take chances with (I do a lot of multiday saddlebag trips, don't want to get stranded).
BTW, since the speedo beaing failed on me, I remove, inspect and regrease this bearing every season, sometimes a few times each season to be sure it is OK. With periodic cleaning and regreasing, it should last several thousand miles.
BTW, since the speedo beaing failed on me, I remove, inspect and regrease this bearing every season, sometimes a few times each season to be sure it is OK. With periodic cleaning and regreasing, it should last several thousand miles.
PZ 1
Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 987
The place where you take it should also be able to remove and replace the sprockets if necessary. I think that a shop should be able to turn it down after welding it with the sprockets on. The problem with a lot of shops in my experience is that they will say that they have to be removed without even giving any thought to it. I would see what is available in a used one and the cost. If it has to be shipped from a distance and you want to sled, you may be able to get the other one fixed and be back on the snow quicker.
Huh?
You said:
"The end isn't wore all that bad I mean if I could get a new bearing that is just about 1/2 a thou oversize i/d I may be able to just true up the bad end and go."
So if the end is wore and is now smaller and you "just true it up" thereby making it smaller again how is a bearing with an oversize i/d going to help you. Won't that just make your problem worse?
Why don't you just find a used drive shaft....they are a dime a dozen around here. CERTAINLY cheaper than having the drive shaft built up and turned down again. Don't worry about pressing drivers on and off.....if you have access to a press it is very simple. Take some measurments, have some confidence and do it.
Madmatt
You said:
"The end isn't wore all that bad I mean if I could get a new bearing that is just about 1/2 a thou oversize i/d I may be able to just true up the bad end and go."
So if the end is wore and is now smaller and you "just true it up" thereby making it smaller again how is a bearing with an oversize i/d going to help you. Won't that just make your problem worse?
Why don't you just find a used drive shaft....they are a dime a dozen around here. CERTAINLY cheaper than having the drive shaft built up and turned down again. Don't worry about pressing drivers on and off.....if you have access to a press it is very simple. Take some measurments, have some confidence and do it.
Madmatt
I guess I meant an undersized i/d there,thanks for pointing that out.I realize that taking measurements and pressing them off and back on isn't all that difficult it's just one of the few things I've never had completely apart before.Madmatt said:
As far as the machining work I have a bud that can do the work for me for nothing where he works
so buying will be a last resort if I can't get the repair work done sometime soon.