Did I screw up my clutching?

chilli

chilli

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Nov 18, 2005
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I changed out my primary and secondary springs for OEM replacements.

My secondary seems REALLY easy to open now....and when you twist it it needs so sort of travel 2/3 inch before it opens up....

WHen I changed the spering, I had noted where the tabs were, and I thought they were right. Is that what preload is? IS there a certain amount you need to pre-twist before closing it up?
 
Yes you have to preload.If you take it apart and look at were the ramp on the helix lines up with the button towers as you move to differant positions you can see the differance in preload in the amount of gap to turn the helix to drop over a ramp or the bolts.
 
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IS there a specific setting it should be at?

What is the stock amount of preload?

Sorry, still visualizing at this point, but wonderin if there is any documentation on how to preload, and how much
 
yep stock is 60 deg. but you may have to play with it to see how's the backshifting working for you,,what kind of riding do you usally do,lakes
twisty trails???
 
both technically...alot of lake running while on trails...LOL

I dont mind the stock settings, as thats why I just replaced the old springs with oem replacements..

Im at work right now, so I cant say what setting..I tried to mimic the way I uninstalled, but i can feel its way too losse...you can open the secondary with almost no force
 
I'll bet you have the helix ramps on the wrong side of the buttons. You can look at it without even taking it apart, the end of the ramps should be sitting on the buttons. You probably have the end of the ramps sitting on the back side of the buttons. There should'nt be any slop in it, the spring holds it clear closed, immediate tension when you start to open it. When putting it together you have to twist the helix until the ramps are sitting on the buttons, then with the clutch on the floor I usually set my knee on it to hold it down while pulling up on the bottom sheave with one hand so I can start the nuts onto the bolts with the other. Should be quite a bit of tension to hold on it to be able to start the nuts, a helper to start threading them on is a lot easier while you hold the tension on it.
 
mod-it said:
Should be quite a bit of tension to hold on it to be able to start the nuts, a helper to start threading them on is a lot easier while you hold the tension on it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had a helper when we did it, hloding it down so I could starts the bolts. I swear I put the spring back in the same holes that the original came out of

Im going to pull the secondary tonight and see whassup...before I start on the drinks for new years..LOL
 
I'm not sure if you're understanding me correctly. The spring can be in the correct holes, but still not have the helix positioned correctly on the buttons. The slop you described definitely isn't right. If you did what I'm thinking, the ends of the helix ramps are sitting behind the "towers" that the buttons are on.
 
hey Chilli - I find it much easier to change the spring preload with the secondary on the jack shaft - I cant remember what mine is set to (im thinking 80 degrees but I also ride off trail)
 
Yeah, thats a good point, when doing it alone, that'd be best. Last time my buddy held it down whle I tightened.

None the less, the helix is right, it must be simply the preload...it moves like it should, just too easily...will check that this afternon when IM out in the shed ;)
 
ok so helix is proper, and now this may be a funny/stupid question, but what direction do I preload the clutch?

By this I mean, which way would I twist the setup, to compress the spring I assume?

My only concern right now is how easy I can spin the secondary apart (*if I was changing a belt, it would be the easiest Ive ever split the sheaves).

Now my stock secondary spring had 15000K on it, so Im not sure if they get stiffer with time or whatewver (my guess would be opposite)

Anyways, to all the pros, please chime in and lead me in the right direction. thanks!
 
1) wind the spring and helix so that if you were to relax, the helix ramps will be tight againt the secondary nylon buttons...

2) don't push down (while winding) on the helix until you are ready to set it in place...

3) be sure not to gouge the helix bushing while pushing it into place...

almost a week to wind that secondary... you're missing winter... tj
 
Well, thanks for the advice except for this:

TJ500 said:
almost a week to wind that secondary... you're missing winter... tj
Click to expand...

#1 - I guess you haven't followed my reverse modification thread

#2 - RAIN last week took away all the snow, lakes are balled...so where exactly is this winter you speak of? LOL
 
2) here in Manitoba, of course... where else?..


reverse has little to do with the secondary?

just got about 6 inches of soft powder yesterday... temps dropped to -24 C, but still constitutes winter... hope conditions improve for you too.... tj
 
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ok, so yeah I made a mistake and the top part of the spring was in zero. I moved it so they're both 3-3.

Seems to be beack to normal now.

As for preload, once you choose the hole number, you just twist until the holes line up? You dont go past that any further right, just til the holes line up?
 
Yes chilli twist untill the holes line up.If you whent to 70 there would be a bigger gap to twist before you can drop it over the holes and so on.
 
ok perfect....so 3-3 is stock, but I was wondering what you guys like to run?

I run lake and trail, and like the snappiness, so if I could gain some more by changing to 6-3 6-6 whatever....new to the clutching part
 
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