Left Side Axle Bearing

vmaxdad8657

vmaxdad8657

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Joined
Dec 29, 2004
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76
Age
67
Location
Upstate New York
I have a 1998 SRX-700, the speedometer had quit a few years back, and all I had to do was to replace the "joint" (8K4-47715-00-00) from the axle to the speedometer housing to get it to work again. It worked fine for a few years, and it happened again this week-end, When I unbolted the three nuts to remove the "meter gear housing component" (8CR-47000-00-00), I discovered that the "bearing" (93306-20589-00) had gone bad, and had actually came apart, and there were loose parts and ball bearings.
I went to a local snowmobile parts store and I purchased a brand new bearing, collar, and "joint"

What is the correct way to replace this bearing and collar on the left side of the drive axle? I don't want to take apart any thing more than is necessary,
Does the track have to be loose? Am I going to be able to replace it from the area directly below the secondary clutch? Do I have to remove the secondary clutch? Do I have to replace these parts from underneath the tunnel? Just looking for some advice, before I start working on it.
Thanks!
Stan Dorozynski
 
Stan,

Technically, you could install a new one just by sliding it into place and tightening the 2 set screws followed by reinstalling the gear housing. But it's unlikely that the sprocket shaft is clean and rust-free enough to allow this. If so, you're all set. If there's debris there it's gonna hafta come out.

You're going to have to pull some parts off. Start with the brake assembly (just loosen and remove the bolts, do NOT take the e-brake springs apart. Drain the chaincase oil, open up the case, remove the sprockets and chain taking care to remember where all the little washers go, loosen the track as much as possible. The big issue will be how much of the old bearing case is left. If there is none left, then you should be able to wiggle the drive sprocket shaft side to side enough to remove it. Clean up the shaft with a wire brush somehow and verify that the new collar will slide on before you reinstall.

Good luck. I've had to cut that bearing collar off that shaft before with a Dremel. It tends to rust in place.

Also, I might be concerned about your new part. That part is a very specialized bearing w/collar. Its dimensions are critical to proper operation. Are you SURE you have EXACTLY the same part?
 
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What's left of the old bearing is bound up to the collar,
The original set screw is completely missing, which might have
contributed to the bearing going bad.
They both slide freely on the shaft, but not enough to
completely come off.
Ive sprayed some wd40 on them, hoping to free them from each other.
I don't want to put any heat to them because there is a cooling hose
immediately underneath them.
The new bearing and collar are right off Yamaha microfiche, so I know that I have the correct new parts.
 
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jvizzacc said:
Stan,

Technically, you could install a new one just by sliding it into place and tightening the 2 set screws followed by reinstalling the gear housing. But it's unlikely that the sprocket shaft is clean and rust-free enough to allow this. If so, you're all set. If there's debris there it's gonna hafta come out.

You're going to have to pull some parts off. Start with the brake assembly (just loosen and remove the bolts, do NOT take the e-brake springs apart. Drain the chaincase oil, open up the case, remove the sprockets and chain taking care to remember where all the little washers go, loosen the track as much as possible. The big issue will be how much of the old bearing case is left. If there is none left, then you should be able to wiggle the drive sprocket shaft side to side enough to remove it. Clean up the shaft with a wire brush somehow and verify that the new collar will slide on before you reinstall.

Good luck. I've had to cut that bearing collar off that shaft before with a Dremel. It tends to rust in place.

Also, I might be concerned about your new part. That part is a very specialized bearing w/collar. Its dimensions are critical to proper operation. Are you SURE you have EXACTLY the same part?
Click to expand...
i don't mean to butt in,if im reading your post correctly you don't have to Remove the intire Chaincase to pull the Drive wheels out?im guessing you could swap a track as well while the drive sprockets out?
just wondering because i have to do both..... change the bearings and track.
 
Any time I have done this I had to remove the bolts holding the inner half of the chaincase to the chassis and pull it out enough to allow the drive axle enough room to slide out.Be mindful of the seals in the back half of the case so you don't cut or mar them.
 
OK. you've got the right parts. now it's all about getting the old ones off. if you're going to cut it (which is recommended), forget heating it and just cut it off best you can... spread with a screwdriver if necessary. then remove the whole thing and clean it up per above. whack it with a hammer to knock it loose.
 
You don't have to remove the entire thing but you must loosen it enough to allow sufficient free play to get the shaft out.
 
if it is seized on, I have used an air hammer from the tunnel side - the bearing is junk anyway. Just loosened track a bit and took cover off along with set screws and drove it off - I can't guarantee it will work every time but it might be worth a try before pulling the case apart. Good luck!!
 
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