Couttsracing
New member
I have a 1997 MMax 700 that starts and runs for approx. 1 minute then dies, no spark. I have replaced the CDI unit and have the same problem. I have done an ohms test on stator, ignition switch, kill switch, all seem to be OK. Does anyone have any ideas to try next. Thanks Dan C.
My 97 would do the same thing except I'd get 15 miles or so out of it. Drag it home, do all the checks, everything fine, pull the rope and it would run. Replaced the stator and the problem went away. Apparently it would get warm and quit, but after sitting for some time cool down enough to work again.
Couttsracing
New member
Thanks going to pull the stator today hope thats it. DanC
jwiedmayer
New member
Sounds like a classic stator failure.
Couttsracing
New member
Stripped the heads on the phony screws that hold the starter to the flywheel going to try to find some sort of easy out.
jwiedmayer
New member
You should have / need to use a impact driver on them. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93481
I have been able to use a chisel to loosen screws like these before. I have also heard of people using a dremel to cut a slot on it. Or weld on a nut. These may also work if you can not find an easy out:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952151000P?vName=Tools
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?mv=rr
I have been able to use a chisel to loosen screws like these before. I have also heard of people using a dremel to cut a slot on it. Or weld on a nut. These may also work if you can not find an easy out:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952151000P?vName=Tools
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?mv=rr
Couttsracing
New member
Finally getting back to my project. Have Stator out but doesnt show any outward signs of being bad (no burnt wires etc). See an ad for RM stator has anyone used them? Just hate to shell out $250. & possibly not fix the problem! 
Have you checked for rub thru on the wires going along bottem of bellypan in front of motor...I had similar issues like you said and found a rub thru on a wire there.
jwiedmayer
New member
Did you do the resistance checks?
Couttsracing
New member
New stator! Did not fix problem have done all resistance checks that manual calls for. Pulled all wiring harness out unwrapped, no visible problems. Unplugged lights, igniton, tors etc. But when I pull starter rope every once in a while I get approx 12volts then the next 100 pulls I get anywhere from 2volts to 8 ?? Also changed out coils & Cdi box with used units. Help please any ideas
taylzee
New member
Did you change the pickup coil at the same time as the stator?
kysledneck
New member
Welcome to my nightmare! Same thing! intermitent spark! When it did get good spark it would run w/ one plug out (looking for spark) I fixed mine by parting the SOB out! Threw my last dollar at it! I feel for you! really sux! Only thing I could think of was some "dead" short on the sled, It started & ran awsome, hit the kill switch never was right again! & yes bypassed kill switch etc!I FEEL YOUR PAIN!
Couttsracing
New member
Yes pickup coil came with new stator. Thanks for the ideas, hopefully someone can come up with something else to check. I really like the old girl!
TJ500
Member
take off handle bar pad and look for rubbing/chafing wires along steering column... kill circuit wires run here and a small rub through/ unwanted ground will give intermitttent spark tj
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TJ500
Member
kysledneck said:
ky.... how exactly did you bypass the kill switch?
kysledneck
New member
Exactly? When it was running I disconnected it replugged it back up &it still ran! Then turned the key off tried to restart and NOTHING! Im not interested in going back over this mess! LOL! The sled is parted and gone!TJ500 said:
jwiedmayer
New member
Do you have a wiring diagram?
If not email me and I'll send you one.
If not email me and I'll send you one.
taylzee
New member
There are lots of places for rub throughs. 2 other big ones are behind the air box where it bolts to the frame at the top and where the wiring comes down by the tank to the CDI box.
jwiedmayer
New member
The cdi has its own power generation coil. So I would unconnect/by pass the carb switch, eningine stop switch, throttle switch, and the key. Then match sure the CDI ground is good. Then test one iginition coil at a time. I assume that you have checked for all the normally chaffing spots. All these switches the engine should run when they are open/unplugged. The only one I can not tell for certain is the carb switch looks like it needs to be closed to run.
Its a short
I had this too. Mine was a huge short under the motor.
I pulled the wire harness from under the motor that goes to the light and gages. I had a short that had melted four wires. I cut the harness to get the wires from under the motor because i didn't want the ends to get stuck under the motor. Not a bid deal because most of them were melted anyway. I rerouted the wires infront of the air box and on top of the belt guard. worked great and now I have tons of extra electric parts to sell.
Bill
I had this too. Mine was a huge short under the motor.
I pulled the wire harness from under the motor that goes to the light and gages. I had a short that had melted four wires. I cut the harness to get the wires from under the motor because i didn't want the ends to get stuck under the motor. Not a bid deal because most of them were melted anyway. I rerouted the wires infront of the air box and on top of the belt guard. worked great and now I have tons of extra electric parts to sell.
Bill