Under Engine wiring harness...no more

amazza76

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Oct 3, 2007
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130
Age
48
Location
Outside of Chicago
So I was having the tell tale signs of rub thru...intermitent lights dimming and going out. I found the area but decided to reroute the harness. I cut the harness and cleaned the entire length of wire, removing all of the original wrapping tape. I then used high quality butt connectors, crimping the connection and checking for a good, cold fusion of the wire(how I wired my '66 GTO so I know it will stand up to vibration.) After I had reconnected the wires, I rewrapped the entire length of the harness w/ electrical tape. I followed that up with high temp convoluted loom, ziptying the loom every few feet. I ran the loom up and over the carbs, securing it to the airbox w/ one of the existing screws and ran the harness over the clutch cover. I hooked into one of the existing harness retainers and plugged it in. Just finished rechecking everything and fired it up and everything worked. I will post some pics soon. :letitsnow
 
That or solder and shrink tube....eventually the moisture and corosion will get into the wires from butt connecters. Just food for thought.
 
Dave M said:
That or solder and shrink tube....eventually the moisture and corosion will get into the wires from butt connecters. Just food for thought.

I use double wall shrink tubing that has a heat activated glue inside that seals the connection (after soldering). It's a bit bulky compaired to standard single wall but I just stagger the joints to compensate.

I also use a butt splice that has low temp solder inside that solders the connection with a heatgun while shrinking. It doesn't have the hot glue to seal but relies on shrinkage around the wire insulation like most other shrink tubing. I've also used the crimp style that have shrinkable ends but the ones I've used still do not have a sealer within.

I tend to stay away from crimp style butt splices (I call them lady fingers) in low current applications due to fretting currosion mainly because it's tough to ensure proper crimp tension.

I would highly recommend the double wall and you can find it at your local Ford dealer. I'll dig up a part number if interested.
 
I did the same, but I soldered and shrink wrapped em.

I ran mine down the metal along side of the belt cover, and just let it sit in the "shelf" on the front of the airbox.

Pics to some soon, heading to workshop tonight
 


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