Powervalve Question

cacsrx1

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Joined
May 18, 2004
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Highmore SD
How do you separate the valve from the cable?? -----Also, on a side note the powervalves look perfect every time I go to clean them. I dump in about a half a can of "Seafoam" everyother tank of fuel and use regular old Yanalube oil. The valves are oily but not one bit of hard crusty carbon like I have seen on many others. ;)!
 

you have to pull the slack up on them and you will see it has a lead part on the cable that hooks in like a throttle cable or a brake cable on a bike.
 
cacsrx1 said:
Also, on a side note the powervalves look perfect every time I go to clean themQUOTE]
Yamaha's exhaust valves are self-cleaning. Every so often they do a scraping cycle, not sure how often that happens but Ive heard it happens every time you start the engine.
Ive heard a lot of good things about the longevity of YPVS (Yamaha Power Valve System) and to me it seems to be a lot better than some other designs.
Ski-Doo's R.A.V.E was pretty pathetic and was known for having one valve open more than the other. Polaris' VES (variable exhuast system) seems to be pretty good. Almost all the sleds in my family have VES and its great. Cant complain about more power with better milage. The only thing I dont like about VES is the frequent cleaning that is required. My brother ran his '97 440 XCR for 700 miles and the valves were so gummed up that he had a hard time getting them apart. Ive heard that Polaris now uses titanium slides that dont stick as bad. I still wonder about wear though. Titanium slides in an aluminum block...
Hebi
 
98srx6 hit the nail on the head. I have put 9600 mile on my 00 SRX and had to replace the power valves once. I didn't clean mine once after 1500 mile use w/ klotz oil. The valves (2) were stuck and (1) the cable pulled through.
 
Some people have good results using Klotz, some don't it seems like. My sled has run Klotz since I got it, and I put on about 1300 miles without cleaning the valves, took them out and they were fairly dirty. I took them out again this summer after another 500 miles and they were about the same again. I didn't run any Seafoam through my sled last year, but did in the previous year. I think that may have helped a bit, as I had no problems running the sled for those 1300 miles without cleaning them.
 
BTW - I've heard of a lot of different ways to clean the Power Valves. I elected to use the "wire brush on a drill" method. This worked great, and combined with some brake cleaner got those babies sparklin'! But I noticed one thing ... There seemed to be some spots on the PV that the wire brush may have worn off a coating of some kind? Like a teflon or something like that? Is this a problem?
 
I use a manual wire brush and clean them very carefully to not damage the PV. I think this is a much safer method than using a wire brush on a drill.

BTW...Maybe I am doing this wrong, but I dont clean mine to a shine, I just get them to the point where there is nothing built up on them, and they have a consitant texture (eg. no rough spots), then call it good.
 
98srx6 said:
The self cleaning claim is BS...it is always best to manually clean your valves every ~1000 miles.
The owner's manual for the '04 Viper S says every 2,000 miles.
As far as oil, I would stick with Yamalube 2S. Thats not to say that other brands such as Klotz or Amsoil are bad, but Id stick with Yamaha's oil.
I look at it this way: for one, those engines were designed and tested using Yamalube and two, I would feel much more comfortable using an oil that Yamaha puts their name on. If lots of people had problems with burning down engines using Yamalube, it makes Yamaha look bad.
At the same time, I could understand why people would want to use something other than Yamalube. It is kind of expensive. The last time I bought oil I was able to get Yamalube 2 S for $16.73 a gallon. I dont think thats all that expensive when you consider that Polaris Blue (petrolium-based oil) is $14 a gallon, Polaris Gold is $26 a gallon and Polaris VES II is $35 a gallon.
When I said that YPVS was "self-cleaning", I never meant to imply that they never need cleaning. However, it seems like they dont require cleaning as frequently as some other variable-exhaust designs.
Hebi
 
What's there to damage? They're hunks of steel. The only thing that concerned me was this coating that I thought I saw. Can anyone comment on this?

Thanks
 


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