warning about using transfer straps!

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zehrbrox

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the other night i made some transfer straps and got rid of my rods on my 600 vmax. thing ran great skis where in the air all the time way faster more fun!! well i was too excited to ride and didn't check some things one is the track will become loose from doing this the other was my front limiter strap was off as much as it could go so the approach angle of my rails to the track was almost straight on. so with that and the loose track, the track speared itself through one of my rails now I have to buy a new track because lack of pre-checks. But the straps are awsome just for the record.
 
been there done that :o|

I have a 98MSRX with a Hartman Inc. 151" kit. Skid relocated back + extensions. I scrapped the rods for the strap also. Tranafers way better

I was pounding a snow bank when "bang" and over the the bars I go.

Best I can figure is by "pounding" the bank, I compresssed the suspension to the point that the track folded over in the front and then pitchforked the track. I also run extroverts so my track tension was loose.

I replaced & than tightened my track hoping this was the problem.

I am interested to see what other comments come on this :homework:
 
i was just wondering if you could explain the straps in relation to the transfer rods.is this a simple cheap fix so my sled will transfer better???
 
if you search under transfer straps you should be able to find some pictures of it. But what I did was cut the transfer rods from the top of the skid with a grinder you need the to leave the tops of them there because they act as spacers. then unbolt the bottom of them and remove them. now go to a farm supply store and buy about2.5 feet x 4 or 6 inch bailer belt. Some bolts washers and nylock nuts. now for the bottom belt mount use the lowest bar on the scissiors in the skid frame. now for the top mount there is a piece of bar running beside the shock on both sides they are mounted by a bolt and a welded nut on the inside. you have to remove the bolts and grind off the welded nuts both sides. Then take you old transfer rod see that it is hollow and cut it to length to fit in where the welded nuts were. now get a tap and die set and tap each end of the rod to the same tread as the bolts you had removed.
install the rod on the top. once this is done cut your bailer belt into two 1.5 inch belts. then measure them to fit and drill holes in them. make sure the belts are tight enough to NOT allow the lower part of the scissior to go past vertical. once this is done grind of the excess treads sticking out past the bolt flush with the nut on the middle bolt of the scissiors. or it will hit your rails and ruin them. also make sure your front limiter strap is tighted up at least half way so the rails have a good approach angle or else it will go through the track also this will loosen your track so make sure you keep it tight! and check before you even leave the shop. but well worth it my sled feels like and totally different sled now!
 
only problem i had with my homemade transfer enhancement kit so far is I dident put a bar from rail to rail behind the back arm. after about a week of riding i done a wheelie and my suspention stayed compresses. when i looked at my back arm it was stuck between my rails and was inpossible to take out. so I removed my suspention then found out my rails were ruined because my bolt and nut on the middle of the back arm went too far. when you dont know what your doing this kit could do some bad things to your sled if not set up right....I still love the kit and would never go back to the stock transfer rods or adjustable rods.
 
venture700 said:
only problem i had with my homemade transfer enhancement kit so far is I dident put a bar from rail to rail behind the back arm. after about a week of riding i done a wheelie and my suspention stayed compresses. when i looked at my back arm it was stuck between my rails and was inpossible to take out. so I removed my suspention then found out my rails were ruined because my bolt and nut on the middle of the back arm went too far. when you dont know what your doing this kit could do some bad things to your sled if not set up right....I still love the kit and would never go back to the stock transfer rods or adjustable rods.
Click to expand...

:eek:The kit requires you to cut the end off the bolt right after the nut to prevent this. The scissor must be able to move freely between the rails. Soc
 
I also ruined my track by doing this. i tightened my limiter straps all the way in. will this solve it and what shud i do for it 2 stop ratcheting? Somebody should make a list of all the prechecks and cautions when installing the transfer straps
 
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