machining helix collar

nodoo_s

nodoo_s

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Has anyone machined the collar on the inside of a yamaha helix to make sure of full shift?
 

I read a post on this last year. So I had to check it out when I was cleaning the clutch. Sur enough a smidgon had to machined off. Simple job. We have a lathe at work so that took care of a coffe break.
Honestly don't know how much difference it made, but i do know that it now "can" shift all the way out.
 
Anybody have a picture of how far it needs to be machined in order to get full shift. I just got one from advant-edge, and there still seems to be some material raised above the bushing. Anybody know if Advant-edge does this machining on their helixes?
 
You only have to take off about 60 thou! Not a lot.
 
Could you be a little more specific, i have a customer who owns a machine shop and would do this for free as long as i give him the right mesurements on how much to take off, that "60 thou" is what exactly, i am a little slow with this kinda stuff............James
 
60 thousandths of an inch. machined off the inside edge above the inner bushing. if you have the helix in your hand with the points of the ramps up and your "looking into" the helix it is the center above where the hole and bushing is. hows the srx comming james? viper is getting close. ski
 
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, i have been so busy with everything else, only get a few hours a week to wrench, but i have my 136 ripsaw in and chain case all back together, the skid is complete and ready to go in, the carbs come off this week for cleaning, a few little odds and ends and should be ready by Dec 1st, knock on wood.......James
 
Can anybody post a picture of this? Its got me curious to look at mine.
 
mcclan said:
Can anybody post a picture of this? Its got me curious to look at mine.
Click to expand...

Most aftermarket Helixes that I have seen already have this area relieved.

As mentioned in an earlier post it is the "ring" area standing above the bushing while looking into the helix. If you look at a used stock yami helix you can see in most cases tell tale signs that at full shift this area has contacted the oposite surface.
 
Just machining the collar isnt enough most of the time. You also have to take about .030 off the tips of the ramps. Everone I do is different and the only way to get it right is to install it in a clutch without a spring and twist it wide open to see if the sliders reach the end of the ramps. ===SRXSRULE===
 
Its not my first day :) I also havent seen anyone talking about the secondary movable sheave smacking into the bolt on the bulk head when the clutch shifts out too far ????? Its not as "cut" and dry as you first think.....But thats how you learn. Many tricks out there. ===SRXSRULE===
 
SRXSRULE said:
Its not my first day :) I also havent seen anyone talking about the secondary movable sheave smacking into the bolt on the bulk head when the clutch shifts out too far ????? Its not as "cut" and dry as you first think.....But thats how you learn. Many tricks out there. ===SRXSRULE===
Click to expand...

The search for speed goes on :rockon:
 
TURKsaid on his post you only need 60 thou! is that the reason so the sheave doesn't hit bulk head bolt? I also read somewhere that you only need 5/16 washers behind helix, I personally never looked at how it shiffs out but might try it for free top end, but also worried on doing damage to it. SRXSRULES if you can help us on some possibilities of what can happen if we go to far that would really help. THANX!
 
sorry bout that

Just trying to help out, If I'm wrong then i'm sorry. when I did mine I removed the spring and moved the secondary around to see what hit. On my sled the only thing that inhibited full shift out was the shoulder that i'm talking about. At least thats what I tought. I'm going to check mine 4-sure now that I have some added info.
Thanks guys!
 
just bought a 22 tooth chain gear (replacing stock 23) for better accelleration and was worried about losing some top end or over reving.

But just saw this thread !!! seems like the perfect combo. better gearing but can still fully shift to end up at same top speed or maybe still more...?

excuse my ignorance. first full year with my srx..... is there a trick when removing helix from secondary? I assume it is preloaded and don't want to loose an eye or something taking it apart.

hope to do this , this weekend. so replies would be greatly apprecialted

1) THIS SOUND LIKE A GOOD COMBO

2) HOW TO TAKE HELIX OFF


thanks

Ramb
 
leave the secondary on the machine and remove the 14 mm nuts and keep pressure against the spring...once all the nuts are removed, twist the helix slighlty and remove the helix.
 
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