bluewho
Active member
There is alot of guys replaceing there old skids with differant brands and are looking for imformation on proper mounting locations.There is a few that have links to there installation and realy help alot but there is always that second quessing in your mind if it will work or have i messed this up before drilling.At least that is how i felt when putting a sc10 3 in my sled.
Differant years differant models we are yamy men here and most dont follow what is what in other brands.Some are coulpled skids some are not.That is why it is important to get the origanal measurment for the axle to axle from the doner sled than you will no to pull the rear axle down with a ratchet strap to install it and have it working properly as it was built for.The doo front shock works in conjuntion with the rear as it swings a bracket that is the mount for the rearshock.This is why there is a preload there.
Before removeing the proaction from my srx i measured the heigth of the rear washer bolt to the floor.
#1 Remove skid from sled and set up on floor to the old heigth.
This will take a pair of vise grips on the transfer rods to hold up and a block of wood to hold up the middle axle to were it was on the sled.
#2 If your rear axle adjuster has not been backed right off for removal do it now.
#3 Slid you new skidframe beside the proaction with the adjusters backed off as well.Make shure the skid has been pulled down if needed with a ratchet strap from the top rear axle to a middle frame rail.
#4 Lineing up the rear axle wheels collapsed on both skids you will come up with the rear measurment from the distance between the two rear top axles.If the new skid is 2 1/2 inches back from the proaction is than that is were the hole will have to be drilled so you will have good adjustment for the track.Any skid you are installing with sit higher than what you have taken out so i dont see any need to go lower than the yamy washer that sits on the floorboard of the tunnel for a trail sled.So this will take care of the rear adjustment and the rear heighth.
#5 Measure from the new hole that you put at the rear of the sled [useing the big washer as a template] to the front of the tunnel to the lenth you got off the doner sled on the inside of the tunnel.Hold the smart end of the tape centered over the hole and put a pencil on the start and draw a sweep starting just over the lip that is part of the side heat exchanger.
#6 If you wanted to set the front hole heigth to compensate for smaller drivers for a paddle track or long studs and want to keep the track away from the top of the tunnel bolt the skid and track in and check for the front heigth for new brackets.
#7 I found the front yamy mounts removed and set on the lip for the side coolers that runs up the inside of the tunnel to work fine for me but there is a little adjustment here if you wanted to set it up differantly.
If you had another set of mounts to use there is no reason to remove yours but if you dont than drill the rivits out and grind the ones that are in backwords pry the mount off with a screwdriver and reinstall over your mark. I used just stainless steel rivots you can buy anywere.
The middle axle mounts are not as good as the very front ones because the dont have the lip that keeps the axle tight and from moveing up.
Useing this method you should be able to bolt any skid frame in your sled and custom fit it for very high front shocks or a low as you can go speed runner and still have full adjustment of your front limiters.
len
Differant years differant models we are yamy men here and most dont follow what is what in other brands.Some are coulpled skids some are not.That is why it is important to get the origanal measurment for the axle to axle from the doner sled than you will no to pull the rear axle down with a ratchet strap to install it and have it working properly as it was built for.The doo front shock works in conjuntion with the rear as it swings a bracket that is the mount for the rearshock.This is why there is a preload there.
Before removeing the proaction from my srx i measured the heigth of the rear washer bolt to the floor.
#1 Remove skid from sled and set up on floor to the old heigth.
This will take a pair of vise grips on the transfer rods to hold up and a block of wood to hold up the middle axle to were it was on the sled.
#2 If your rear axle adjuster has not been backed right off for removal do it now.
#3 Slid you new skidframe beside the proaction with the adjusters backed off as well.Make shure the skid has been pulled down if needed with a ratchet strap from the top rear axle to a middle frame rail.
#4 Lineing up the rear axle wheels collapsed on both skids you will come up with the rear measurment from the distance between the two rear top axles.If the new skid is 2 1/2 inches back from the proaction is than that is were the hole will have to be drilled so you will have good adjustment for the track.Any skid you are installing with sit higher than what you have taken out so i dont see any need to go lower than the yamy washer that sits on the floorboard of the tunnel for a trail sled.So this will take care of the rear adjustment and the rear heighth.
#5 Measure from the new hole that you put at the rear of the sled [useing the big washer as a template] to the front of the tunnel to the lenth you got off the doner sled on the inside of the tunnel.Hold the smart end of the tape centered over the hole and put a pencil on the start and draw a sweep starting just over the lip that is part of the side heat exchanger.
#6 If you wanted to set the front hole heigth to compensate for smaller drivers for a paddle track or long studs and want to keep the track away from the top of the tunnel bolt the skid and track in and check for the front heigth for new brackets.
#7 I found the front yamy mounts removed and set on the lip for the side coolers that runs up the inside of the tunnel to work fine for me but there is a little adjustment here if you wanted to set it up differantly.
If you had another set of mounts to use there is no reason to remove yours but if you dont than drill the rivits out and grind the ones that are in backwords pry the mount off with a screwdriver and reinstall over your mark. I used just stainless steel rivots you can buy anywere.
The middle axle mounts are not as good as the very front ones because the dont have the lip that keeps the axle tight and from moveing up.
Useing this method you should be able to bolt any skid frame in your sled and custom fit it for very high front shocks or a low as you can go speed runner and still have full adjustment of your front limiters.
len
Last edited:
seako_916
New member
i dont know if your 98 srx 700 with a sc-10 is the same chassis as a 97 sx 700 but im trying to put a sc10 III skid from a 04 mxz 800 rev chassis into my sled and if your skid is the same as the one im trying to use would you be willing to give my your measurements you used and if you made drop bracket what were the measurements for those.
i broke the "w arm" and my sled is sitting there all crooked and it is kinda hard to get the orignal height measurements.
also how does it turn? does it dart around like my friends are trying to warn me about? there kinda nay sayers and dont really understand the swap. im sure that im capiable of completing the swap but if i had specific measurements that would make life alot nicer!
also the guy im getting the skid from said i can have his old tunnel to as the sled is garbage and i can use that for drive wheel and fron and rear mouning location measurements.
THANKS!
i broke the "w arm" and my sled is sitting there all crooked and it is kinda hard to get the orignal height measurements.
also how does it turn? does it dart around like my friends are trying to warn me about? there kinda nay sayers and dont really understand the swap. im sure that im capiable of completing the swap but if i had specific measurements that would make life alot nicer!
also the guy im getting the skid from said i can have his old tunnel to as the sled is garbage and i can use that for drive wheel and fron and rear mouning location measurements.
THANKS!
bluewho
Active member
It is very easy.....even if you dont have proper heigth.
After the transfer rods are pulled up and locked so they wont move lift the centre axle up and line the axle holes up exacly to the lenth of your sleds holes centred.You can measure the differance off the side boards.
This is only to line up the rear axle and measure the differance in the new skids rear bolting hole.
That is the most important measurement because you want to be able to adjust your track.
There is no drop brackets needed unless you want to go to the moon with your rear end.The sled will sit higher without them so i cant see why they are needed.
After the transfer rods are pulled up and locked so they wont move lift the centre axle up and line the axle holes up exacly to the lenth of your sleds holes centred.You can measure the differance off the side boards.
This is only to line up the rear axle and measure the differance in the new skids rear bolting hole.
That is the most important measurement because you want to be able to adjust your track.
There is no drop brackets needed unless you want to go to the moon with your rear end.The sled will sit higher without them so i cant see why they are needed.
Scotty_33
New member
#3, what do u mean pull down the skid with a rachet strap?
Scotty_33
New member
also i don't have the doner sled to get the measurements off of???
bluewho
Active member
Scotty_33 said:
You ever use the little strap to hold your sled on a trailor or the back of a pickup truck?They have the ones with a ratchet... you use it to pull the skid down to remove/install on a doo.
I am not going to quess at measurements....take it off any sled the same year and model.Skidframe axle measurements.
bluewho
Active member
What i have used with 02 mxz c10 3 is 2/1/2 back from the rear most hole.Drill the yamy washers and tunnel big enouth to take the larger bolts needed.
Measure 23 3/4 on the inside to the front were the front yamy brackets you hve removed will sit on the lip of the tunnel coolers.
Measure 23 3/4 on the inside to the front were the front yamy brackets you hve removed will sit on the lip of the tunnel coolers.
Grimmy
New member
M10 suspension vs m12...
I've read about the m10 suspension and the comparison to the expert but I haven't seen anything about the m12 suspension. Has anyone installed this suspension before? Pro's and con's?
I've read about the m10 suspension and the comparison to the expert but I haven't seen anything about the m12 suspension. Has anyone installed this suspension before? Pro's and con's?
bluebandit98
New member
id go expert x if you were buyin new they dont take away top speed like the m10s an such do i think its all in th ewheel size tho