RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Hey guys I am planing a trip for next weekend and i would like to have a 12v power supply on my single headlight 99 srx 600. I have the 12 plug and I mounted it in the right side dimple next to the tach on the gauge pod. I have been searching on here about where to get power and some people say to use the red wire that goes to the smoothing condenser and some say the brown wire that goes to the tach. Which one should I use? I am going to have a 3 amp fuse inline so I don't f something up. That means at most I will pull about 35watts!!!!! Is that to much?? I have tested both of these wires with my fluke and they come out with 14.5v. What do you guys think??
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Anyone have an idea which is better? Or do I need to run down to the brown on the left knee area? Or may be the blue going to the tail light? I also am going to run a led tail light!!!!!!!!!
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
well I went out and ran some tests and found that the blue wire going to the rear tail light is ac. Same with the blue wire under the bar pad!!!!!!!!! So the only place that I have found dc under the hood is the condenser and the brown tach wire!!!!! Which on the wiring diagram come from the same place......the dc regulator and then the cdi!!!! I hooked the 12v accessory plug spliced with the dc condenser......is there any problems with that?????? I haven't got a response yet!!!!!!!!!!! Starting to wonder if anyone is out there!!!!!!!! I am going to put a 1 amp fuse in line. And see if my gps will blow the fuse. The volt meter tells me that the condenser and tach are getting 14.5 v dc!!! The only thing I want to run is my gps and maybe a phone charger!!!!!!!!!! Now I am begging for feed back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 14.5v X 1 amp = 14.5watts....................................................If that is not enough I will go to 1.5 and then 2amps......................Right now i have the gps hooked up with a 3 amp fuse and it works perfectly...............no problems!!!!!!!! What am I going to break if I use this...........gearing up for a 600 mile trip next weekend and would like to be able to run gps and charge my phone......................PLEASE HELP ME
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
would you want to post something and have it be wrong and screw up someones trip...me either... i would buy a bunch of alkaline, and keep your phone off and only use in an emergency, when you get back take your time and splice it in to the right spot...just my .02
Dogpoundracing
New member
i run my heated shield off the blue taillamp wire ?

staggs65
Moderator
my heated shield is wired to the brown tach wire and my plug is mounted where you put your acc. plug, been working fine but don't really know if it's the "right" place to tie into
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
staggs how much does you heated shield draw?? (dog)The tail light wire is AC on my sled, I don't know how but it is!!

staggs65
Moderator
I honestly don't know, i've had this helmet for 4 years and three sleds and any paperwork is long gone, got a pretty good multimeter but not sure if there would be a way to test the amperage draw?
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
The problem with testing amperage is you have to be in series with what you want to test.... so you would have to be on the power wire going to your heated shield and then between the shield and the place it gets its power from...........do you guys have a fuse inline with them or not?
Rev the sled up above idle and make sure the line you tapped doesn't go above 14.5V DC(I learned this the hard way on my first electric shield). Non e-start sleds run the tail lights on AC and a heated visor will work on AC, as long as the voltage stays below 14ish. Your GPs will only draw what it needs but if you feed that plug much more than 14.5 volts, it will likely stop working. Your GPS power supply should have an input voltage range printed on it.
RIVERRUNNER said:The problem with testing amperage is you have to be in series with what you want to test.... so you would have to be on the power wire going to your heated shield and then between the shield and the place it gets its power from...........do you guys have a fuse inline with them or not?
I'd have to look where I hooked my GPS to, but most should allow for up to 15 volts DC (standard automotive limits). I do have an inline fuse installed for the GPS and I don't use a heated shield. I check and post back tomorrow.

staggs65
Moderator
no fuse on my shield
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
crewchief47 said:Rev the sled up above idle and make sure the line you tapped doesn't go above 14.5V DC(I learned this the hard way on my first electric shield). Non e-start sleds run the tail lights on AC and a heated visor will work on AC, as long as the voltage stays below 14ish. Your GPs will only draw what it needs but if you feed that plug much more than 14.5 volts, it will likely stop working. Your GPS power supply should have an input voltage range printed on it.
I have a Etrex Vista hcx and I am using the usb cable to power it.....so I a not sure what it is going to draw....but it will run for between 15 and 25 hours on AA alkaline batteries so I shouldn't draw that much..... I am going to run out to the garage and test to see if the voltage moves....but I think that I revved it up to clutch engagement and it was still at 14.5v......
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
I went out to the garage and tested the wires and revved up my sled and there is a constant 14.5 v dc on the condenser wires that I tapped.......I also ran both my gps and my phone on the plug for a while and I have a 1a fuse inline and I had no problems blowing the fuse. That means that I am using 14.5w from the stator....I am going to run a led tail light in order to combat my increased power use. I did some research and found that a regular 1157 uses 2.1 amps and .6 amps when running the light and brake light. Thats 32 watts as apposed 9 watts with the led bulbs So I think that I am going to be alright........and there should be no extra power draw on my stator!!!!
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Just got back from a 400 mile trip(low snow so I couldn't do what I wanted to!!!!!) and I have yet to install my led lights....but the 12v plug worked flawlessly!!!! To anyone that is looking to run a gps or phone or a heated shield this is one place to get clean 12v dc!!!! FYI
700
Member
Thanks for the info!
I've been studying wiring diagrams trying to figure out where you'd have to hook up the charge wire for adding electric start on a SRX since they are not wired from the factory. Like you found, the only place I could see that had dc power was in the brown wire to the tach/fuel gauge which also feeds power for the YPVS and the condenser. On electric start models the center pin from the ignition switch feeds a brown wire that taps into this group as well. I believe this is where I would splice in the charge wire from the ignition switch so when the key was ON this 14.5 volt supply would recharge the battery. But like you; I don't want to burn out the stator. I'd be under the assumption that the stator would only put out what wattage it is designed to put out and that is the rate it would charge a dead battery without harm to the stator. This could be a bad assumption, so I'd like some advice from someone who has done this before. I've heard of people that have added electric start on an SRX. Anyone out there reading this?
I've been studying wiring diagrams trying to figure out where you'd have to hook up the charge wire for adding electric start on a SRX since they are not wired from the factory. Like you found, the only place I could see that had dc power was in the brown wire to the tach/fuel gauge which also feeds power for the YPVS and the condenser. On electric start models the center pin from the ignition switch feeds a brown wire that taps into this group as well. I believe this is where I would splice in the charge wire from the ignition switch so when the key was ON this 14.5 volt supply would recharge the battery. But like you; I don't want to burn out the stator. I'd be under the assumption that the stator would only put out what wattage it is designed to put out and that is the rate it would charge a dead battery without harm to the stator. This could be a bad assumption, so I'd like some advice from someone who has done this before. I've heard of people that have added electric start on an SRX. Anyone out there reading this?

RIVERRUNNER
Active member
I have read about it but I don't remember who it was that has done it.....I think that you are correct in your assumption about the brown wire and the stator. I too, don't have any idea how much you are able to draw from that stator without burning up the windings prematurely!!! If I come across a post about it I will try to send it your way......it is too bad that you can't limit the amount that your battery would draw down, to an amount that the stator could handle. But I could never get an answer about how much is too much!!!!!!!!!
You might be able to check resistance on the same windings in a electric start sled and that would give you the amount of power out put at a given voltage range and then subtract it from the lights and handwarmers and get a good ballpark figure!!!
You also could check the part # on a given electric start stator and yours to see if they are the same!?!?!?
Wiring diagrams from a electric start sled in the same year? Trace down were they tap the charging wires and then see what the charge coil is and see if it will fit in a srx!?!!?!?!
Sorry about the rambling just thoughts that are jumping into my head......What do you think?

You also could check the part # on a given electric start stator and yours to see if they are the same!?!?!?
Wiring diagrams from a electric start sled in the same year? Trace down were they tap the charging wires and then see what the charge coil is and see if it will fit in a srx!?!!?!?!
Sorry about the rambling just thoughts that are jumping into my head......What do you think?
Vmax Al
New member
Do you have your GPS mounted on the sled?