Stephfg
New member
I think I've read every clutching thread on this site in the past few days, including the clutching chart. Work has been much more fun! I was trying to figure out how to correct a recent 500 RPM over rev in my SRX. Then I figured if I'm going to correct it, I should also try to improve it with a helix or springs, and that got me into looking at clutch kits. Aaen, Bender, Pioneer, Hauck, Dalton all have them available for about the same price.
My question is what have you experienced or heard (good and bad) about any of these kits on a stock SRX? Are they really close to what you've needed? How was the support you received from the company for technical questions? Should I even bother with a kit?
thanks in advance.
My question is what have you experienced or heard (good and bad) about any of these kits on a stock SRX? Are they really close to what you've needed? How was the support you received from the company for technical questions? Should I even bother with a kit?
thanks in advance.
Personally I wouldn't bother buying a "clutch kit." They are a one size fits most approach by the perf. dealers to sell product. Nothing wrong with selling some intellectual property, but to charge $200 for a box of stock parts that I can buy new/used for $75. No thanks.
Now if you are looking into some of the aftermarket weights (heelclicker, supertips, etc...) There is some bang there.
Whatever you do you will need to tune it to your sled. While there are lots of very good opinions on what to run in what sled here on the site, each one may require some fine tuning for your particular setup. How many times has someone been on here saying this set up rocks, and someone else says that they could never get it quite right and used this one instead.
Have fun, try some things, and keep notes if you plan to mess around with it. That way if you screw it up, you can get back to a baseline and know where you started.
Also why do you suddenly have an extra 500 rpms? Has this always been there and you are just correcting it, or is it a new issue that could be as simple as a worn belt?
Now if you are looking into some of the aftermarket weights (heelclicker, supertips, etc...) There is some bang there.
Whatever you do you will need to tune it to your sled. While there are lots of very good opinions on what to run in what sled here on the site, each one may require some fine tuning for your particular setup. How many times has someone been on here saying this set up rocks, and someone else says that they could never get it quite right and used this one instead.
Have fun, try some things, and keep notes if you plan to mess around with it. That way if you screw it up, you can get back to a baseline and know where you started.
Also why do you suddenly have an extra 500 rpms? Has this always been there and you are just correcting it, or is it a new issue that could be as simple as a worn belt?
Stephfg
New member
re: the sudden extra 500 rpms: my belt is within spec but worn 1mm so I put in the washers behind the bolts on the secondary. It didn't help. I will try a new belt before I start playing with the clutches.
I changed bushings in the primary and secondary and rollers in the primary in the fall. No other changes were made anywhere. If anything, this should lower the RPM.
I started using Blue Marble oil in February of last year. When I read up on it, they mentioned that RPMs could increase because of it. I've recently found information from others stating they've had to re-clutch after using this oil for a few tanks due to the rpm increase.
I changed bushings in the primary and secondary and rollers in the primary in the fall. No other changes were made anywhere. If anything, this should lower the RPM.
I started using Blue Marble oil in February of last year. When I read up on it, they mentioned that RPMs could increase because of it. I've recently found information from others stating they've had to re-clutch after using this oil for a few tanks due to the rpm increase.
staggs65
Moderator
i just started using fett bros heavy hitter weights (53gram) fett bros 150/300 primary spring, dalton 54/46 helix, with yammie green @ 60 wrap, I love it pulls hard, as the others said you have to dial in the weights, (been getting help from guys on this site) but i think it was worth it
PNPerformance
New member
Are you running stock weight's and spring in your sled now.Stephfg said:
Stephfg
New member
yes. stock weights and spring.
I just bought a new belt, weight rivets and yellow-green-yellow spring. I'll start with the belt, and if that doesn't work, try the spring, then the weights. I also borrowed 3 secondaries, 3 springs and 3 helixes from a friend to try different settings. But I want to fix the primary before playing with the secondary.
I just bought a new belt, weight rivets and yellow-green-yellow spring. I'll start with the belt, and if that doesn't work, try the spring, then the weights. I also borrowed 3 secondaries, 3 springs and 3 helixes from a friend to try different settings. But I want to fix the primary before playing with the secondary.
Stephfg
New member
yellow green yellow spring corrected my rpms. The dealer actually gave me a yellow silver yellow by mistake, which engages lower but has the same rate. Since I had it, I tried it and it works. I ordered the ygy to get the engagement back.
I tried a few helixes as well (just a few tries). I liked the added acceleration of the Bender 9760, but it wasn't backshifting well. I will try again with different springs. My priority was the rpm correction, which I wanted to do before my 4 day trip this Thursday.
I tried a few helixes as well (just a few tries). I liked the added acceleration of the Bender 9760, but it wasn't backshifting well. I will try again with different springs. My priority was the rpm correction, which I wanted to do before my 4 day trip this Thursday.
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
If you are trail riding/lake running.....I wouldn't bother with kit I would buy used or new stuff from members on here and dial it in with there help. Pick someones setup and go from there!!!! You will be more successful and do it in a lot less time with a lot less money spent. As said above buying after market weights are a different story!
What secondaries and springs and weights do you have to work with and someone will dial you in for you ride in 4 days!!!!!!!!
54/44 helix From what I have read it is the ticket!!!!!
What secondaries and springs and weights do you have to work with and someone will dial you in for you ride in 4 days!!!!!!!!
54/44 helix From what I have read it is the ticket!!!!!
Stephfg
New member
here's what I have:
helixes: I have the 47 degree stock, an 8BVFA (51/43) and a Bender 9760 (not sure of angles).
secondary springs: I have the stock pink secondary spring, a yamaha white secondary spring and another spring that is completely yellow (non Yamaha).
primary: I'm running the yellow green yellow, which brought my rpms down to 8,500. I have the stock one as well (ywy). I'm using stock weights.
My same friend also has heel clickers which I might get into after the trip, but that's further than I want to go right now! I need to run well for 1,300 kms!
helixes: I have the 47 degree stock, an 8BVFA (51/43) and a Bender 9760 (not sure of angles).
secondary springs: I have the stock pink secondary spring, a yamaha white secondary spring and another spring that is completely yellow (non Yamaha).
primary: I'm running the yellow green yellow, which brought my rpms down to 8,500. I have the stock one as well (ywy). I'm using stock weights.
My same friend also has heel clickers which I might get into after the trip, but that's further than I want to go right now! I need to run well for 1,300 kms!
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Well in the interest of time...I would load the stock weights with a 4.5g rivet in each hole and use the ywy primary spring!!!! Then I would use the 51/43.....the problem is you have secondary springs that are way to stiff so you are going to over rev!!! The tighter the rap on the secondary the more it will over rev!! Ideally you are going to need a green at 60!!! You can try your yellow spring but if you don't know what it is it is going to be hard for me to dial it in perfectly!! Stock your sled had a red secondary.....do you have that?
Stephfg
New member
stock is pink, not red on 01 SRX. Red is 4 rates lower. With my stock pink spring and stock 47 helix, I revved 9k with the stock ywy primary spring. That's why I went to ygy. With the stock secondary settings, it now revs 8,500 rpm.
I compensated with a softer spring. I think you're suggesting to leave the ywy and add to the weights instead?
I compensated with a softer spring. I think you're suggesting to leave the ywy and add to the weights instead?
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Stephfg said:
Yep there is more then one way to skin a cat but when you go to the tech section and check out what should be in your secondary from the factory it is a red spring!
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/AAATuning Chart/Specs.htm
Your secondary spring is way to stiff!!!!!!!
You don't want to be at 8500rpm until you are at about 100mph either..your sled when you pin it should start at 8200 and climb to 8500!!!
If you want to be faster I would run that 51/43!!!
After you get back try the 54/44 that was suggested above
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