OK, the stock track on my 2001 SXR has to go. I cannot get it to hook up. I put in 144 studs and also adjustable control rods and still I cannot get it to bite. It will dig a hole forever. I have purchased a set of 8 tooth drivers as part of this replacement. I do not want to take out the heat exchanger or tunnel protectors. All of my riding is on lakes or groomed trails.
Here is the questions. Should I stay with a 121 or go to a 136?
Should I go with a 1.25 or 1.50 inch track?
What track do you recommend? I am concerned with the lug breakage I am reading about on ripsaws.
Suspension change? M10/Polaris/Skidoo?
All opinions are welcome.
Here is the questions. Should I stay with a 121 or go to a 136?
Should I go with a 1.25 or 1.50 inch track?
What track do you recommend? I am concerned with the lug breakage I am reading about on ripsaws.
Suspension change? M10/Polaris/Skidoo?
All opinions are welcome.


2ooosrx
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Put in a new Carve (Preditor) 15 x 121 x 1.00 w/ 144 down the center. Drop your front strap and move transfer rods (control rods) up all the way.
Bruce
Bruce
I had the transfer rods all the way up and the strap bolts ajusted to 15mm of thread showing. The machine was very loose and all over the place. I have gone back to the transfer rods to the second line (middle of adjustment) and tightened the straps back up to 25mm as per the owners manual. Now waiting for snow to test. Rain killed local riding last week.
Do you think a 1" track is good? I was thinking atleast a 1.25. I can get a 1" slightly used Skidoo Rev track for free. Will that be a big difference over the stock Yamaha track?
Do you think a 1" track is good? I was thinking atleast a 1.25. I can get a 1" slightly used Skidoo Rev track for free. Will that be a big difference over the stock Yamaha track?
parepadarappa
New member
Get the 1.5 I have an Intense on mine and I won't go less than 1.5 on any sled in the future.


2ooosrx
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The 1.00 track is fine for the riding you do.
Your sled should have had a .92 lug track on it from the factory, so a 1" track will/should feel like the .92. I have heard that people like the way the ripsaw feels/handles, but dont know anything about any durability issues.Bob Brown said:OK, the stock track on my 2001 SXR has to go. I cannot get it to hook up. I put in 144 studs and also adjustable control rods and still I cannot get it to bite. It will dig a hole forever. I have purchased a set of 8 tooth drivers as part of this replacement. I do not want to take out the heat exchanger or tunnel protectors. All of my riding is on lakes or groomed trails.
Here is the questions. Should I stay with a 121 or go to a 136?
Should I go with a 1.25 or 1.50 inch track?
What track do you recommend? I am concerned with the lug breakage I am reading about on ripsaws.
Suspension change? M10/Polaris/Skidoo?
All opinions are welcome.
I had to replace the track on my sled and went with a 9830 camo. T
kallio
New member
Our 2000 phazer got changed to a 1" paddle track night and day diff from the stock one that was on there, I bought a 700 vmax with the 1 1/4 ripsaw paddle track and it grabs/bites great and have not had any problems with the paddles yet
dubla92
Member
Here is the skinny - 1.25" track is the perfect fit. Whether it's a ripsaw or a predator it doesn't matter. I prefer the ripsaw but have ran many predators and they perform fine.
Don't waste your time on a 1" like bandit said - not much difference from stock. As for the 1.5'' intense it is a great off trail track but on a stock 700 it will slow it down huge probably at least 20kmh.
I do run a 1.5'' intense on my o1 700 sxr with pipes, porting, clutching, etc etc and it h works good but has a hard time pulling over 160kmh. On a stock viper with a ripsaw it will pul 170kmh but with a 1.5 intense 150kmh tops.
So if you always play off trail and don't care about top speed then maybe 1.5'' but clutching and gearing is a good idea. A 1.25'' can be installed with little or no clutching and gearing.
Just a note with a 1.25'' track the tunnel protectors might clear but still should be removed to eliminate ice issues. With a 1.5'' track tunnel protectors have to be removed. Also with taller tracks it is a good investment to buy a fully clipped track and go to extgrovert drivers preferably the bombardier ones. This will alieviate some hyfax wear and free up some speed.
Don't waste your time on a 1" like bandit said - not much difference from stock. As for the 1.5'' intense it is a great off trail track but on a stock 700 it will slow it down huge probably at least 20kmh.
I do run a 1.5'' intense on my o1 700 sxr with pipes, porting, clutching, etc etc and it h works good but has a hard time pulling over 160kmh. On a stock viper with a ripsaw it will pul 170kmh but with a 1.5 intense 150kmh tops.
So if you always play off trail and don't care about top speed then maybe 1.5'' but clutching and gearing is a good idea. A 1.25'' can be installed with little or no clutching and gearing.
Just a note with a 1.25'' track the tunnel protectors might clear but still should be removed to eliminate ice issues. With a 1.5'' track tunnel protectors have to be removed. Also with taller tracks it is a good investment to buy a fully clipped track and go to extgrovert drivers preferably the bombardier ones. This will alieviate some hyfax wear and free up some speed.
OK it looks like a 1.25 is the best bet. Anyone run the new carve? Any comparison against the ripsaw? Remember, I only run on lakes or trails.
yamyrider
Active member
I run a .75 track and hook up like mad...I have 96 studs up th middle. I have seen people with a 1 or 1.25 track and not hook up....it is all in the set up.....suspension adjustment and the studs. Now I would not go in the deep snow but on trails and lakes I hook up excellent.
BlueIronRanger
New member
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- Nov 26, 2003
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Bob Brown said:OK it looks like a 1.25 is the best bet. Anyone run the new carve? Any comparison against the ripsaw? Remember, I only run on lakes or trails.
I have the 1.25" ripsaw, its an awesome trail/lake/ MILD boondocking track. It slowed my SX600R up about 10mph from the stock track but the traction is 200% better than stock, I usually hook up by 15mph now instead of spinning to 40+mph. Only down side is that it seems to loose lugs quicker than my stock Yokohama did, I have 1500 mile on mine and Its missing 6 or 7 lugs already but I do alot of power line riding and spin the track alot to keep moving in the deeper snow and catch hidden stumps and rocks. Mine is also a Factory Yamaha Ripsaw so it may be of of a lower quality than a "ripsaw ripsaw" if you know what I mean, I got mine for 275$ from a yamaha dealer.
Yanyrider, how do you have your suspension set? Do I have the front or rear shock set to stiff?
what is your engagement rpm?
yamahauler4
New member
I have the 1.25 ripsaw, no studs and I love it. Made a huge difference. Removed tunnel and frt h/e prot, no problems. Will lose top end, and she howls over 90, but NBD. Any track will still spin if the susp doesn't hook. I just put ATR on mine, we'll see on the next ride.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
The Carve is just Predator renamed. I have a 1" with 96 megabits down the middle and I love it. I got mine at TracksUSA.com it only cost $20 more for the predrilled track.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I have only rarely gotten stuck in deep snow. And simply picking up the backend and moving it over and starting again usually gets me out.
Is the six-pitch the same as the carve/predator ? I have the 1 1/4 sixpitch and it's a great track.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I believe the carve/predator/sixpitch are all the same.
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
I have a ripsaw and have over 2000 miles on it on my srx 600.....in snow on trails it hooks up as good as my .92 with 192 studs that I had before. But off the trail my sled preforms much better!!! As far as durability it has been great! It looks almost like it did when I put it on. I also pay attention to how much I spin on foreign objects!!!! Go with the ripsaw, you won't be disappointed. Oh and I have seen speeds over 100 many times on the gps!!!
racerdan
New member
If you plan on studding I would go with a 1" no more than 144 down the center. Without studs an 1 1/4" ripsaw will perform excellent. Caution if you plan on studding a 1 1/4" you will need to modify protectors or use smaller drivers and drop your suspension to add clearance to your tunnel. 144 studs is more than enough to hook up your sxr with a properly adjusted suspension.