I did this swap last year and am still trying to tune the ride of this skid in my SRX but have yet to get it where I like it.I put heavier springs in this year and it helped the ride some but the shocks still need attention as in revalve for my weight.The biggest complaint I have now is that the skid tends to rebound too fast over bumps and it pitches me off the seat which is something I was hoping to be able to tune out of the skid but cant yet.Has anyone had any experience with these skids and could you give me some pointers as to what I should try?The transfer settings are set to minimum transfer as I get more ski lift than I'd like now and the limiter straps have been pulled up some with the shock spring on soft.I like to ride rather than fiddle on the trail so I'm not big on trail side adjustments type of person but am looking for all the info I can get.Thanks
I have an MXZ with the same problem. I got pitched off it a couple weeks ago at close to 100mph. The SC10 improvement kit will help a little bit. It couples the front and rear of the skid. I am going to rebuild the shock for some additional rebound. It sounds as though you should consider the same.
Mine is a SC10 II with the coupler blocks so I don't need the kit you speak of but I think probably most of the pitching is coming from the shocks needing a rebuild at least I hope that's all it is.This is happening at slower trail speeds in my case like 25-40 mph or so.
Sounds like your shock is definitely in need of a rebuild if its pitching at those speeds.
Why did you install heavier springs? Were yours sagging?Are you a big guy? The heavier springs maybe adding to your rebound problem, especially if your shocks are in need of a rebuild or revalve.
Why did you install heavier springs? Were yours sagging?Are you a big guy? The heavier springs maybe adding to your rebound problem, especially if your shocks are in need of a rebuild or revalve.
Yeah the stock springs weren't quite cutting it 
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bluewho
Active member
I dont think the front shock being on soft will help.It will collapse to easy and shove the rear shock bottom/ mount around causeing that rebound.Tighton the front spring max.Undo the bolt on the top of the rear shock and see if you can collapse it very easy and put it in the bottom hole[make shure it falls in the groove]Or just remove the bolt and travel the shock up and down.It should be stiff and try to bounce back up.
I dont think you will adjust the trasfer out of it but pulling up the limiters will bring the skis down faster.
Adjusting the ski springs tighter for a higher ride might help as well.
I dont think you will adjust the trasfer out of it but pulling up the limiters will bring the skis down faster.
Adjusting the ski springs tighter for a higher ride might help as well.
I softened up the front spring to keep the front of the sled down as much as possible under acceleration (if that makes sence to you).What I'm thinking is if I tighten up the spring on the front skid shock it's going to allow the weight to transfer back easier than it does now wont it where this would be the pivot point of transfer?I have the front ski shock brackets flipped to bring the nose of the sled up now for the ride height.bluewho said:
I'm not trying to dial all the transfer out of the skid just the excess that I'm dealing with now.
xsivhp
Active member
I have had a sc10 II and the pro action. Pro action is a better skid IMO.
SC10 III is better than a pro action skid .....
SC10 III is better than a pro action skid .....
Where did you get your measurements from for the install. When I installed the cat skid in my Viper, I went to great lengths to be sure the geomotry was correct.
If you installed incorrectly, it can cause the sled to transfer too much.
The skid has to match the front of the sled, the same as it did from the doaner sled.
If you installed incorrectly, it can cause the sled to transfer too much.
The skid has to match the front of the sled, the same as it did from the doaner sled.
I got all my measurements from bluewho and just for the hell of it I managed to make a templete from my buds 01 MXZ tunnel and the bolt holes in my tunnel are in the right places according my template.What I may just do is fab up a set of drop brackets with a couple of different holes to lower the rear mount,one at 1 inch lower and one at 2 inches lower and see how it reacts.
Taking the measurement off the top of the tunnel does not always give you the correct alignment with the front suspension. Take your buddy's MXZ and support it with the track and skis completely off the ground(heigher the better) . Hold a long straight edge ,8' straight 2x4, to the bottom of the track and see how it lines up with the ski just under the spindle. Do the same with yours and compare the two.
I'll see if i can get a picture to illustrate.
I'll see if i can get a picture to illustrate.
Also, when measuring the mounting holes, take measurements from a line centered on the drive axle and rear mount hole. Use this pic as an example(dont use the dimensions, they are for a cat skid)
To adjust the alignment to the front suspension, raise or lower the rear hole and re-measure for the front hole.
Lowering the rear hole will give you more ski pressure and less transfer.
To adjust the alignment to the front suspension, raise or lower the rear hole and re-measure for the front hole.
Lowering the rear hole will give you more ski pressure and less transfer.
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I'll see if I can get the materials to do the measurements you mention with the track and ski spindle and see where mine is in relation.
When I made my pattern from my buds sled I did it when he had the skid out so I could put my bristle board up tight to the drive axle,top of the tunnel and along the side to mark the holes.I was under the impression that this was the correct way to do a skid swap,get the hole locations from the chassis the donor skid came from and transfer them to yours.
When I made my pattern from my buds sled I did it when he had the skid out so I could put my bristle board up tight to the drive axle,top of the tunnel and along the side to mark the holes.I was under the impression that this was the correct way to do a skid swap,get the hole locations from the chassis the donor skid came from and transfer them to yours.
bluewho
Active member
Your not going to find the measurments are off imo.They work fine for my sleds.All i did was pull the limiters up one hole and rideon.I have pounded it and beat on it for around 2500 km and guess what.............????
I wasn't insinuating that the measurements you gave me were wrong as a matter of fact I am extremely greatfull for your help it saved me much trial and error and drilling holes where they don't belong 
.I'm just trying to sort out why the front end of my sled is so light now and what I mean by that is that when I start out from a stop it doesn't take much of any throttle input to lift the skis,a trait it never had with the pro action.I'm not sure if this is being caused by me having flipped the front shock brackets for more front end clearance and subsequently raising the front end or what.
I have the limiters pulled up now and the transfer blocks set to minimal transfer but still get the light front end.I don't want to pull the limiters up much more as it just limits the shock travel,I'd rather take advantage of all I can.I am more curious where the spindle is in relation to the track and would like to know if I do try drop brackets how much difference it would make.
Sorry if It sounded like I was doubting you or insulting you I meant no disrespect at all I'm just trying to gather all the knowledge I can about this type of mod so I'll know what to do next time.
.I'm just trying to sort out why the front end of my sled is so light now and what I mean by that is that when I start out from a stop it doesn't take much of any throttle input to lift the skis,a trait it never had with the pro action.I'm not sure if this is being caused by me having flipped the front shock brackets for more front end clearance and subsequently raising the front end or what.I have the limiters pulled up now and the transfer blocks set to minimal transfer but still get the light front end.I don't want to pull the limiters up much more as it just limits the shock travel,I'd rather take advantage of all I can.I am more curious where the spindle is in relation to the track and would like to know if I do try drop brackets how much difference it would make.
Sorry if It sounded like I was doubting you or insulting you I meant no disrespect at all I'm just trying to gather all the knowledge I can about this type of mod so I'll know what to do next time.
bluewho
Active member
No problem here i was just trying to help.I dont no about the #2 so i want to ask you if the shocks are linked it the centre?Or are they on a seperate mount for each other?
I'm not sure if this will answer your question as to linked shocks or not but the front shock is mounted basically the same as the Yamaha Pro Action with the top mounted to the front arm and the bottom mounted to a cross shaft.The rear shock is mounted by having the top bolted to the rear arm and the bottom bolted to a rocker bracket that is in turn mounted to the bottom of the front arm.Kind of confusing I know and I'll try to get a pic of the setup.
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bluewho
Active member
Ok its the same as the 111 haveing the centre link that rz500 is talking about.I would still tighhton the front spring as tight as it will go and try it.
I was pulling the skis on a road without mutch throttle untill i pulled the limiters up a hole.They should have a little tenshion on them with no weight on the sled.Any more than that and the skis will become light with good traction.
I was pulling the skis on a road without mutch throttle untill i pulled the limiters up a hole.They should have a little tenshion on them with no weight on the sled.Any more than that and the skis will become light with good traction.