Questions on my Viper with the M-10

A

AndyC

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Oct 20, 2003
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Sharon, CT
Hey guys,
I installed an Ohlin M-10 on my Viper ER last season. Problem was it was just to late and then the snow was gone. I didn't get a chance to take it out after the installation. What am I in for as in loss of speed? I hear that it'll lose about 5mph on top end, but then I read that the 8" big wheel kit will return the lost MPH. I'm not a field racer but we do run every once in a while. Most of our riding in on the trail systems. My 02 Viper ER is stock except for being studded and last year i was able to take a friend on his modied ZRT600. Which really bother him :yam:
I have a feeling that I'm going to be trailing him this year, but either way I'll be way ahead in the bumps.(I think)

Thanks,
Andy
 
I am testing the 8" wheels this year on my SX-R 136 m10....not sure if it works. But I know you will loose at least 5 mph, with the m10 stock...keeo the track as flat as possible with the skis and keep the skid as soft as you can to get it to sit in...should help.
 
top speed loss

I installed an M-10 out of a polaris, and to be truthfull, I did not see any top speed loss. speedo reeds 112-110 before and after install. then I installed CPR pipes, modified helix, and one tooth bigger gear up top. Grand total speedo reading of 119-123, depending on conditions. Totally waxes my buddies 2003 MXZ 800, in the trails , and on the lake!
 
m-10 install

Trucknut,
I could help you, it's not to hard to explain. mine did not come with a install kit, or tunnel stiffeners. Also you don't need the torque arm. The front holes in your tunnel will work just fine. When I used the tunnel templates, I found that the hole in the torque arm was only .375" inch higher than the stock hole for the yammi skid. Fast said that was to far off, but I tried it anyway. I could give you the drawing for the homemade tunnel stiffeners I made. transfer the rear hole from the stiffeners to the tunnel and drill for that location. Basically to make sure that it is right, you can measure from the bottom of the tunnel, with a square, and back from the front hole location. This will give you the rear hole position. I believe that I used 3/8" thick x 2" wide aluminum plate for the tunnel stiffeners. I did some milling to the aluminum plates to clear the exsiting tunnel supports, I suppose you could use 1/4" plates and shim them out with 1/8" plates, thats what Fast has you do with their stiffeners. When I was done I cycled the suspension up and down with the track installed, shocks removed, and the tension was very consistent. It was actually better than the "old ladies" sled that I put an M-10 in the year before. I used the kit fast sells for $200 on that one. Here's a pic, that piece of lead, rides like a sled now. I'll get more details if you want.
 
That would be great because I had the install kit once and sent it back,Although i consider my self fairly handy that kit really confused me!
 
Trucknut,
If you check out the tech section it will help out alot. Since it is a Viper that is getting a M-10 installed into it. It was very helpful to me when I installed mine last year(end of season).
By the way my Viper is also studded too so there isn't any problems.(or I don't think so)

Andy
 
m-10 install w/o $200 bologna (sing it)

Wow that took me long enough! sorry bout that. lets get to it. The suspension I have is out of a polaris, and it does not use the torque arms. If you have A torque arm suspension, then you could line up the piviot holes(m-10) with the pro-action front mounting holes(sled), and transfer the torque arm mount holes to the tunnel. I would keep the torque arm level with the bottom of the tunnel.
As for the tunnel supports, some basic aluminum flat stock works, check your local hardware store. I used 1/4" thick x 2 1/2" wide, you will need 2 1/2 feet. basically find a way to get it to sit flat on the tunnel. I milled some, ground some. Don't be shy, grind that S^#t off.
to find the rear hole location, measure back from the center of the front pivot hole 25 5/8" inch. and use the stock metal flanged washer to get the height. This is the washer thats used between the tunnel and rear bolt (see pics). reuse it when mounting the rear pivot shaft. Use a bullet point drill it won't walk, and move your hole location. you'll notice the rear hole is now further foward than the stock location, but at the same height. I threw a rivit in washer for the h#ll of it, it also helps guide the drill when you go transfer the holes to the homebrew tunnel supports.
Now there were some rivits you had to grind off to get the plates flush to the tunnel. from the outside of the tunnel, drill those holes through the homemade supports. use some nuts and bolts through front pivot holes, to hold the plates in position, and rivit them in. use steel or stainless rivits, not aluminum. Now drill out the rear hole in the supports. Add some extra rivits through the tunnel into the supports and your done.
This setup keeps your track tension perfect, and won't scrape the tunnel w/ room for studs.

I checked it out---it's all good :beer:
 
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Well got her all done! It wasn't easy but it is in there!I should have re read the instuctions better I ended up useing 3/8 plates and 1/8 inch shims and just grinding till I got the right width.also went with the aluminum rivets.I think I am going to add a couple more bolts to the plates for extra sucurity though! My buddys think it will be fine the way it is! Hopefully I will get up to your neck of the woods so I can buy you lunch for all your help!
 

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Here a picture of Viper with the Ohlin M-10. I got it installed last season but never had a chance to ride it due to lack of snow at the end of the season.
I can't wait :)
 

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Hey Tnut, THAT LOOKS GREAT!
Glad I could be of service, everyone here at TY is awsome. The people all like to help out, and Iv'e gained so much knowledge it's unbelievable. Your gona love that ride! Just make sure you set up the spring preloads, and FRA adjustment to you Rider weight. The info is online at fast.
200 hard miles of riding will be more like 50 miles now. let us know how you like it!
Steveo ;)!
 
I look forward to riding it,I had a 01 polaris classic that came with the M-10 from the the factory so luckily I am preety familar with it I also Have a rear ohlins shock for it as well,not sure if I will put it in now or after I ride it! I would like to have a ohlins center shock but don't want to spend the $400. right now gonna have to plow some more snow first.Thanks again for your help! ;)!
 
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