cajones2
Member
I was thinking about hitting some of the local 500' grass drags this summer and fall on ole blue. My hyfax are getting close to the line and thought I'd just plane them down. I'll be running the trail stock class or amateur or whatever they call it these days.
Does anyone have any other pointers and bits of advice for a guy? There aren't very many yammies in my area so I'd like to lay waste to as many of them as possible. I got the 99 600sx thing going. I'll put the single pipe back on and run in a couple different classes. I have a 760 BB, but don't tell anyone.
Does anyone have any other pointers and bits of advice for a guy? There aren't very many yammies in my area so I'd like to lay waste to as many of them as possible. I got the 99 600sx thing going. I'll put the single pipe back on and run in a couple different classes. I have a 760 BB, but don't tell anyone.
remove them completely. spray some wire pulling lube or liquid dish soap on the bare rails and the track clips. i use a 1 gal garden type sprayer. watch for any debris or build up between rounds and clean as necessary. i have made hundreds of hyfaxless? runs grass dragging and never had a problem.
cajones2
Member
Anyone else have any grass drag experience?
what are you looking to learn? so many tip and tricks. nothing is cut and dry. lower the sled, set suspension, clutching, jetting and gearing for the track lenghth. some run 500', some 660', clutch and gear selection makes a difference in that extra 160'. practice and testing make a big difference. also your reaction time is probably one of the most key factors. lots of races won or lost at the line. my wife used to power brake the sled at the line, hard on belts. built a clutch that didnt engage until nearly 6000 rpm. wow, what a pull at start. put this combo on my 12 yr old daughters 600 twin and she smoked the competition in snow drags last week. could go on and on about drags, but take it a step at a time. start with the suspension setup. we can go from there.
srxbully
New member
remove the hifax completly.add some small wheels & it shouldnt touch the rail at all.i wouldnt worry about lube really as long as you set it up right.run somewhere @ 19-40 gearing 20-40 works to.build a cool down cart & add some quick connects.i dont think your allowed to run a speed track or chiesles in stock so that wont work..should run somewhere around 135,137.5 jets straight across all carbs..get a spring for the engagment to be close to 5400-5500.& practice with different clutch setups.
cajones2
Member
Specifically, I have always struggled with weight transfer and getting hookup. Do you have any suggestions/spec on how to set the shocks. Everything mentioned above, I plan on doing. I need to search for different helix though. I am building a set of timing lights and will be doing some testing this summer.
I read an article once that some guys run no or a lightweight lube in the chaincase. Some guys wash the grease out of the idler bearings and put some light lube in each as well. I don't think I'll do that to the idlers since it is a trail machine first, but could do the chaincase thing. It was something that when i read, i remember thinking, well yes, that seems obvious and was wondering if there were more of these types of things and what not. Thanks guys!
Oh also, for 500', is the following accurate: 600cc->80-85mph, 700cc->85-90mph, 800cc->90+mph?
I read an article once that some guys run no or a lightweight lube in the chaincase. Some guys wash the grease out of the idler bearings and put some light lube in each as well. I don't think I'll do that to the idlers since it is a trail machine first, but could do the chaincase thing. It was something that when i read, i remember thinking, well yes, that seems obvious and was wondering if there were more of these types of things and what not. Thanks guys!
Oh also, for 500', is the following accurate: 600cc->80-85mph, 700cc->85-90mph, 800cc->90+mph?
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look at this: snowgoerracing.com/2008/09/12/how-to-set-up-a-grass-drag-sled/
srxbully
New member
i dout you will see anything above 80-85mph with a stock sled at that wieght
cajones2
Member
Good article, thanks!
srxbully -> The fun part of it is that it will appear 100% stock on the outside, but it is actually a 760 big bore kit. I thought it would be fun to try to beat up on some of the locals. I won't be running any stock class, just the amateur class.
Couple questions:
1. How best would one go about strapping down the front suspension on a SX?
2. I have a 1" predator with 144 megabites with 5* angled backers. I also have my oem track that I can stud the heck out of, but would prefer to not swap out tracks. Do you think I can get decent hook or should I buy a 12 pack and swap out the track?
srxbully -> The fun part of it is that it will appear 100% stock on the outside, but it is actually a 760 big bore kit. I thought it would be fun to try to beat up on some of the locals. I won't be running any stock class, just the amateur class.
Couple questions:
1. How best would one go about strapping down the front suspension on a SX?
2. I have a 1" predator with 144 megabites with 5* angled backers. I also have my oem track that I can stud the heck out of, but would prefer to not swap out tracks. Do you think I can get decent hook or should I buy a 12 pack and swap out the track?
as for the shocks, sacrifice some ratchet straps and suck the shocks down(compress). add some longer bolts to the lower shock mount for attachment, or use an eyebolt, nut, washer combo. seems like we tightened the front of rear and loosened the rear of rear shocks for transfer, then played with the transfer straps and rods for a good launch. another trick for the lights is beam blockers for the ski loops. tape is cheapest. anything to give a larger surface area for the lights to detect. check out wahl bros. if you think you may need a coolant cart, i have some cheap tricks there.
cajones2
Member
Any thoughts on the track swapping?
not to familiar with the track your running now, but with 144 pics, it should hook good. i ran chisel points designed for drag applications. find some grass, play with your sled, and see how it bites. you may be surprised. i have a drag clutch that wont engage until about 6000 rpm, which really helps out off the line.
srxbully
New member
would they be teching? if so then you probably wont get away with the bb.as far as changing the track,just stay with what you have. & 144 studs will be plenty as your not pushing that much power? where is your hp at anyway?145-150hp?& for the front suspension you will have to remain with 2'' of travel.& use chains to tie it down.dont use rachet straps.& remember that the higher the engagment the more your going to spin up.as i already mentioned 5400-5500 is where you want to be.as far as rear suspension goes a good rule of thumb is to loosen the rear shock so theres about 1'' of tread left showing & the front shock as tight as you can get it.run lots of small wheels & get it rolling as free as possible.scuff the clutchs between each race.keep it cool as possible.
srxbully
New member
and fine tune the rear for your wieght as much as possible.
cajones2
Member
Thanks for the good information there! I am pretty sure I won't go through tech in the "non pro" class. My weakest area is tuning the suspension, especially the rear.
Regarding my HP, I am going to have it dyno'd this summer so I can really get it dialed in, with the stock pipe I am estimating it'll be coming in around 135ish.
Regarding my HP, I am going to have it dyno'd this summer so I can really get it dialed in, with the stock pipe I am estimating it'll be coming in around 135ish.
srxbully
New member
yeah you dont have the power for anymore studs than that.& as far as tech goes.just a heads up when i raced stocks sleds in non pro classes i have been teched & if any other racer suspected anything they could pay $50 to get you torn down & if you were caught you were dq'ed.not all places are the same so i dont know.just a heads up that they can & will if they have a reason.but front suspension is easy.& at least you got a starting point for the rear now.
cajones2
Member
Thanks for the information. I don't think they tear down for the non pro classes, but will confirm again to make sure. If they did, I'd just refuse and just get DQ'd. There is no payout, just trophies in that class. to me, the fun is in the preparation, tuning and actual racing. Now if I had sponsors and was wanting the payout, that would be a different situation all together. 