Has anybody put a M-10 in a sx chassis? A couple weeks ago I hit a rock in the Big Horn's. Bent one rail, wrecked center shock and the W-arm. My buddy has a M-10 he will sell me for $300. My sled is a 99 sx that got stretched to 144, sxr rear shocks and limiter straps and viper front shocks.
I'm sure this has been done, but I would like to know if the M-10 works well in this sled, and how much of a job it is to put it in.
I'm sure this has been done, but I would like to know if the M-10 works well in this sled, and how much of a job it is to put it in.
SWEDE
New member
The m-10 works great in that chassis,I've had one in mine for 5-6000 miles and the comfort will spoil you.Mine has been stretched to 136" for the last 3700 miles and I like that even better.The handling is a little tippy compared to the proaction and the traction is'nt as good, but if you play around with it you'll get it dialed in to your liking.300 is a deal I'd snatch that up.If the shocks need rebuilding send them off to Fast in Minnesota and have the m valve put in the rear shock its nice improvement in comfort and is more aggressive at the end of the travel as well so its a win-win.Its not bad to put in and there is instuctions over in the technical section with pictures to make it even clearer.If you have future questions just ask theres several of us on this board with m-10's who can help.
SWEDE
New member
your welcome
Yes. I have had an M-10 in my 700SX for 7 years. Excellent investment and well worth the effort. Make sure you set your sled up with at least 4-5 " of sag with you sitting on it. Another adjustment worth doing,IMO,is shaving the back edge of the coupler block, This will allow the block to slide farther before contacting the rear stop. This allows the skid to "squat" and transfer more before the skid begins to couple. I can't remember exactly how much I shaved off but I think it was 1/8" to 3/16",it's been a few years. I bought a second set to have incase I went too far but never needed. I would start with an 1/16" at a time and do your best to keep them square and both sides equal. IMO the transfer you'll gain is well worth the loss of ride quality. The lighter you are the less you'll notice the ride quality difference. And one more thing, these skids don't like track tensioned too tight. I have learned to run mine as loose as I can without ratcheting. Here's a link to information about set-up .
http://www.absolutesnowmobile.com/a...suspention.html
....Mark.
http://www.absolutesnowmobile.com/a...suspention.html
....Mark.
been riding on a m10 since 1994 and all i can say if you ever get on one its an eye opener in ride quality, did i mention eye opener..oh i did. 
....CP
....CPSWEDE
New member
I have shaved about a 1/2" off my coupler blocks fromthe standard issue blocks and it works great.I only go about 170 so that probably is a factor in me being able to take so much off as was said above.