Hello all
I bought a 2003 Viper, nice sled. It has a studded track (Track is stock Yamaha) I would love to keep em but my driveway and garage will suffer too much damage (Just unloading it after purchase I chewed up a few spots). Is it ok to remove the studs and run the track? or do you need to cap the holes somehow. Will the track still be durable? Dont know how many studs havnt counted them but probably 100+
Thanks for your help.
Mark
I bought a 2003 Viper, nice sled. It has a studded track (Track is stock Yamaha) I would love to keep em but my driveway and garage will suffer too much damage (Just unloading it after purchase I chewed up a few spots). Is it ok to remove the studs and run the track? or do you need to cap the holes somehow. Will the track still be durable? Dont know how many studs havnt counted them but probably 100+
Thanks for your help.
Mark
Get some sled casters to move it arond on your diveway and garage. I drive up to the bare concrete and put them under the skis and track and then pull the sled into the garage. No marks from the carbide or picks.
Yes, you can remove the picks without doing anything else to the track. It will still be fine.
Yes, you can remove the picks without doing anything else to the track. It will still be fine.
no1chevyboy
New member
as far as i know you can remove them and it will work fine mountain sleders drill bigger holes in there track to help remove snow so i think you will be ok as long as there is no rips
ViperXC
New member
It is not a problem to remove the studs and leave the holes alone. My opinion is the stock track sucks and should have put studs in but I don't like studs so never did. I eventually put a longer and bigger lug track on my Viper.
Thanks
Thanks for the advise.
I have the sled dollies but you know at 55 I am just to lazy to lift it around and hassle.
The reason I bought the Viper is it has reverse and electric start. Start it up ride it, back into garage.
The benefits of studs are many but untimate hole shot and acceleration is not at the top of my list anymore.
I do however know the tracks on the Yamaha's are not the best. Maybe will look into a new track. Have read about the Ripsaw and Hacksaw on this forum. Would a 1.25 lug (I know I have to remove the protectors) be worth the efffort and $. I see the ripsaw 1.25 is around $390 at tracks usa.
I have upgraded the suspension to an M10 air, dont know if this makes any difference with the track?
Thanks again
Mark
Thanks for the advise.
I have the sled dollies but you know at 55 I am just to lazy to lift it around and hassle.
The reason I bought the Viper is it has reverse and electric start. Start it up ride it, back into garage.
The benefits of studs are many but untimate hole shot and acceleration is not at the top of my list anymore.
I do however know the tracks on the Yamaha's are not the best. Maybe will look into a new track. Have read about the Ripsaw and Hacksaw on this forum. Would a 1.25 lug (I know I have to remove the protectors) be worth the efffort and $. I see the ripsaw 1.25 is around $390 at tracks usa.
I have upgraded the suspension to an M10 air, dont know if this makes any difference with the track?
Thanks again
Mark
mhollida said:
IMHO, if riding on groomed flat-lander trails (Mich, Wisc, Minn), I won't ride without them. It only took one instance years ago with an on-coming clown in an icey corner (he was studless) to make a believer out of me. And that was nearly 20 years ago with half the volume of riders than we see today.
Even still, I don't ride without my Tec-vest for the same reason. Most survive the season without studs and they aren't a subsitute for defensive driving, but there have been too many instances on busy trails for me to ride without.
Admittedly, the added traction makes for a better holeshot and also is suited for my riding style (I like more bite in the corners then most). But also having that ability to get out of the way sooner on ice has come in handy.
I understand the torn up concrete issue all too well, but you'll still be dealing with the damage caused by the carbides up front. And I'm right behind you in age so can appreciate not wanting to lift the skid on to the dolly. I've picked on my retired riding buddys for using the rear bumper jack just to get the dolly under the skid, but that jack looks better and better with each passing year.
We've been using heavy rubber mats (I got some from a friend that worked at a machine shop) that are about 3/8" thick with 3/4" holes throughout and chamfered edges (they're roughly 4'x5') that we keep by the door to drive onto which allows for installing the dollies while keeping damage to the concrete at a minimum. When exiting the garage to ride, we use two serpentine belts around the ski loops and pull the sleds out of the garage leaving the dollies to fall out at the threshhold.
As for removing the studs anyhow, I agree with most here that removing them now shouldn't change the durability of the OEM track, but it is getting up there in age and kinda sucked from the get go. I think you'll be disappointed with the studs removed and if you're like me, you'll want to limit the time on your back or rump and wait until you swap the track.
Plus you may find some a real bi%#@ to break loose and may end up going through a couple allen wrenches too. If someone used lock-tite (t-nut type) you may have to heat things up which I'm sure you'll agree won't extend the life of the track.
Check the clips on that track. My 02 Viper has 5500 miles on it and the clips are breaking off. I've replaced 20 in the begining of the season and after 500 miles 15 more either broken or missing.One is stuck in the exchanger protector.
You can get those sled dollies that pick up the whole sled and cart it in and out of your garage. My neighbor has one ( he's 56 ) and uses it on his Rx1 ton.
You can get those sled dollies that pick up the whole sled and cart it in and out of your garage. My neighbor has one ( he's 56 ) and uses it on his Rx1 ton.
Robnoxious
New member
Rx1 ton , now thats funny