Back shift

[pup55]

Guy's I put a 53/43 helix with a green spring wrapped at 80. Can you tell me how I could get it to back shift better(quicker)? I would like to get into a corner and have the clutch back shift some what like my 07 Apex does. On my apex I don't even need to use the brakes when letting off the throttle and I would like to see if I could get my 03 viper to the same thing.

 

[mopar1rules]

for better backshift, you can wrap current green spring tighter (like 90deg), get a stiffer secondary spring (like silver), or get a shallower helix. the problem w/wrapping your secondary springs tighter and getting stiffer secondary springs, is that your top end will be down. there just has to be a compromise somewhere, understand? i wouldn't suggest wrapping the silver spring any higher than what you currently have.

 

[pup55]

I dont mind losing a little at the top end i would rather be quicker out of the hole and mid range. So would it be better then to get a silver spring or should I try a different helix?

 

[RJH]

Try the wrap first...its the most cost effective way...and will help.

You may be surprised...it may not affect top end..as it may have been too light to start with. You will find out when you run it.

Do what the fellow says..it will work. You are moving the shift rpm up for the full range.

I think he means silver..in his last line.

 

[mopar1rules]

oops...yep, i actually meant to type silver instead of green in my last sentence. i fixed it now.

 

[mopar1rules]

Try the wrap first...its the most cost effective way...and will help.

very true

 

[tedgoesfast]

a yamaha will work better set at 60 wrap match the front clutch with the rear turk has some good set ups search tech info

 

[stein700sx]

Keep in mind (if you haven't already) one thing tho. A 4stroke will feel like it has a better backshift due to the "engine braking" effect of a 4stroke. I know the wrap has alot to do with it too.

 

[pup55]

So the first thing I could try is to wrap the green spring at 90 and see how that works. I have been doing a lot of search and have talked to Turk about my set up. The problem is I have to trailer my sled to ride so I can't just take the sled out back and try it out so getting all this input and the information from searching is helping me narrow down what i am going to work on. Hey Ted could you explain a little on the 60 wrap and match the front with the rear? Is that using the springs I have or changing out springs on both the primary and the secondary?

Thanks Guys for your help
Steve

 

[RJH]

You can do a bunch of stuff...but just do what the man said....one thing at a time,,,you are getting into a panic. Don’t make it complicated.

If you don't get the feel you want..try one more twist.

You can test it on a stand…for preliminary purposes.

Before you tighten the spring….put the sled on a stand..warm it up…from idle…blip the throttle. The tach will go to a point …bounce then rise slightly. When you tighten the spring…the tach should go to a slightly higher point and bounce .

Contrary to popular belief…you want that bounce to be at the factory recommended max rpm. NOTE to all….I don’t want to discuss that last line.

What you are doing is moving the shift curve up. It could be closer to the HP curve or farther away. Hopefully….you are going in the right direction and will see some performance improvement.

Yes..clutch balance is the key…but don’t get involved in that yet. Do what the man said. Then do it a bit more.

 

[pup55]

Thanks for the feedback.