bravo-guy
New member
For those of you who removed your sway bar, how did it handle on the trail? I want to remove mine for better carving/side-hilling/boondocking etc, but I trail ride sometimes, and lots of time to get to the good riding spots. I have to pull the motor to remove it don't I? From what I hear, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Any opinions?
The front will work independently. It will feel much softer and more forgiving. However, it will pitch more side to side instead of bucking flat. It also will not corner as well as it is hard to plant the outside ski. Personally I like it better removed, except for cornering.
If you get used to it, it is no big deal unless you are trying to corner real hard.
Take one of the dogbones off one side of the swaybar and toss it in your trunk while on a bumpy section of trail to notice the difference. With just one side off it disable the entire swaybar. You can then decide if you want to make the swap permanent.
Usually you can get them out without removing the engine if you decide to go for it. Just drill the three rivets holding the support plates on each side. Snake it out of there, and rivet some blank plates back in. Or simply use the old plates.
If you get used to it, it is no big deal unless you are trying to corner real hard.
Take one of the dogbones off one side of the swaybar and toss it in your trunk while on a bumpy section of trail to notice the difference. With just one side off it disable the entire swaybar. You can then decide if you want to make the swap permanent.
Usually you can get them out without removing the engine if you decide to go for it. Just drill the three rivets holding the support plates on each side. Snake it out of there, and rivet some blank plates back in. Or simply use the old plates.
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Are you talking about the 01 Mountain Lite, or a different sled?
bravo-guy
New member
Yup talking about the Mountain Lite. The 38" ski stance helps a little for my riding. My riding style is not one, but many, sometimes I trail ride on groomed trails, sometimes on tight woods trails, off trail riding, even some small hill climbs (there not that big, but that little 500 impressed me though) but boondocking and hittin' big drifts is what I really like. What i don't want to do is have it taken off but then in the winter if I don't like like it have to go through all the trouble to get it back on. When the snow comes I might do like you suggested and disconnect one side and try it.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I wonder if someone makes a quick disconnect, like they have on 4-wheelers (trucks that is)?
bravo-guy said:
Other than having to carry a couple of wrenches and the added dead weight of having it on the sled but not used, I think Ding's suggestion could be a permanent solution. With it disconnected from one side, it's just along for the ride but still there when you want it. Reinstall the link and it's functional.
cacsrx1
New member
Buy two snap pins......takes 5 seconds to remove 1 dog bone. I have used them for years.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
snap pins are a great idea!
Crank up the preload on the front shocks & it also helps out the quircky handling a lot.
Just to add something . . .
When carving with a 2000 Phazer shorty (wide front), and the dog leg removed on one side the following can happen . . . This is very rare but can happen.
With all of the weight of the sled on one ski, AND you hit a bump that compresses that shock, AND you try to turn out (usually to keep balance) - the tail of the ski can hit the loose end of the stabilizer bar which doesn't let you turn any farther.
The first time this happened to me, it was easy to figure out what happened, but real hard to make happen again.
I just thought I would mention it in case you encounter it.
All you have to do is twitch the bars back the other way a hair to release pressure so the ski drops and then turn again.
When carving with a 2000 Phazer shorty (wide front), and the dog leg removed on one side the following can happen . . . This is very rare but can happen.
With all of the weight of the sled on one ski, AND you hit a bump that compresses that shock, AND you try to turn out (usually to keep balance) - the tail of the ski can hit the loose end of the stabilizer bar which doesn't let you turn any farther.
The first time this happened to me, it was easy to figure out what happened, but real hard to make happen again.
I just thought I would mention it in case you encounter it.
All you have to do is twitch the bars back the other way a hair to release pressure so the ski drops and then turn again.