Track deflection with studs

super1c

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Ran a bounch of searches and cant quite find the answer im looking for. Finnaly getting around to adjusting the new track. When replacing slides i noticed previous owner got into the rails a little from too much hyfax wear. I plan on pulling up limiter staps a 1/4 at a time and see how i like that when the snow flies. Running about a inch bolt right now. Big question is how loose can i run a one inch lug track with studs. Dont know the exact length of studs but they stick out about 3/16 from lug. I want too run loose for less wear but dont want to take out heat exchanger. Anyone have any ideas. Forgot to mention 02 viper with stock driver and heat exchange protectors. Thanks chris
 
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Im no pro at this but i would think to start off tight for two reasons. One the track will strech a bit and two you will hit stuff and ratchet if too loose. I used to run an apex and it would ratchet before it would start rubbing. There is a noticeable increase in speed from a "loose" track. Jack your sled up and run up the speed and see if you have any rubbing and go from there but keep in mind you wont be able to tell if its going to ratchet unless you put a load on it. I have found that Yamahas specs are very tight. Good luck and i hope others will chime in with there two cents.
 
super1c said:
I cant believe no one else isnt running a 1 inch track on a 02 viper with studs???????

I found this reply from a thread you started when installing the track. I don't think there is any difference between a Viper and SRX.


I have to run the track tension tighter than I like (which is still looser than spec.) because I was getting some stud nicks on the rear HX. I have HX protectors on the rear but there is a gap between the tunnel protectors and rear protector which allows for the track to come up and just bearly nic the HX when the track is loose. I'd have to weld something on the front end of the protector to close the gap, but running the track a bit tighter was easier than pulling the HX protectors.
 
super1c said:
I cant believe no one else isnt running a 1 inch track on a 02 viper with studs???????

I don't have studs in my viper currently, I will this year and I did with my old track. I was running a 1" with 1.25" studs. I have a couple nicks in the top of the tunnel (i have the protectors in) but no marks on the exchangers. I put the rear exchanger in last year because of overheating problems. When i set my track, i raise the back off the ground, let the track hang. It will usually hang about an inch and a bit off the rails. It is still pretty tight and it doesn't rachet. I could loosen it more if I wanted but haven't tried. My advice is for you to set the track with the sled running on a lift or stand and see how loose you can get it to go without the track slipping or racheting. If you get it to slip, tighten it up a bit and you'll be fine. Having a new track (like I did last season) you should have it a little bit tighter as it will stretch a bit as mentioned.
 
SRXSRULE2 said:
I don't have studs in my viper currently, I will this year and I did with my old track. I was running a 1" with 1.25" studs. I have a couple nicks in the top of the tunnel (i have the protectors in) but no marks on the exchangers. I put the rear exchanger in last year because of overheating problems. When i set my track, i raise the back off the ground, let the track hang. It will usually hang about an inch and a bit off the rails. It is still pretty tight and it doesn't rachet. I could loosen it more if I wanted but haven't tried. My advice is for you to set the track with the sled running on a lift or stand and see how loose you can get it to go without the track slipping or racheting. If you get it to slip, tighten it up a bit and you'll be fine. Having a new track (like I did last season) you should have it a little bit tighter as it will stretch a bit as mentioned.
Thanks that sounds more like the direction i want to go. I'll just have to keep a close eye on it as the track breaks in. Thanks!!
 


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