dockter71
New member
There has been a few instances when I encounter incrediably deep snow (stand up and look over the bow wave kinda snow) with my longtracked SRX I run into a major bog issue from every vent being plugged and the exhaust being smoothered. I have been thinking for years of a "cold air kit "or the foam filters from MPI or flow-rites from SLP. I'm also running a tempa-flow right now. Is there any safe intake mods like these, I can run without messing with the jetting? I know the "cold air kit" changes the jetting but it also diverts all airflow to come from behind the windshield. Where some of the other options just install alternate method of airflow. I plan on fab-ing a small exhaust deflector in conjuction with a intake mod to compliment the set-up. So what is everyones opinion on the intake mods. Will I loose power? Drawbacks? Its the real problem the plugging exhaust outlet and not the intake? suggestions?
gild
New member
kits
Had the Bender cold air kit on along with the 2000MM exhaust deflector and carbs vented to the handle bars. If the hood filled up in deep snow, it only would run at 1/2 throttle or less. On a 98 MSRX 700. Never figured it out really.
Had the Bender cold air kit on along with the 2000MM exhaust deflector and carbs vented to the handle bars. If the hood filled up in deep snow, it only would run at 1/2 throttle or less. On a 98 MSRX 700. Never figured it out really.
dockter71
New member
That sounds exactly like the same issue I running into.
This happens with most sleds in that much snow...it is common. Keep er pinned with the front end as high as it will go. Happened to me lots at revy. Lotsa throttle!
The Snakester
New member
I have the same problem on my Viper I just stop and scrape the top of the air box off. I have the intake screen on top of the airbox its the one from MPI it works really good seems waterproof also
dockter71
New member
From the sounds of it I'll just leave it stock. Thanks guys for the input.
Sometimes I will pull the vent screen above the brake rotor. The snow will fall through and melt. Dosn't always work but I found it helps alot. Best part is it cost nothing to do, I usually will just toss the screen in the trunk. Then put it back in when I'm not in deep snow anymore.
I tried pulling the front screens also, but then snow falls on to the pipes, cools em, then the motor starts loosing power.
I tried pulling the front screens also, but then snow falls on to the pipes, cools em, then the motor starts loosing power.
Snowmark
New member
intake/cold air
I've experimented extensively with exhaust deflectors and accomplished nothing cept to melt the belly pan, they make no difference...I did seal off all the holes on the bottom of the airbox so steam could not be sucked thru and that helped, also did the airbox mod and cut a hole in the hood above the airbox intake, right in front of the guages and put foam element over it and that also helped, had to rejet up. now it works in the deep pow.
I've experimented extensively with exhaust deflectors and accomplished nothing cept to melt the belly pan, they make no difference...I did seal off all the holes on the bottom of the airbox so steam could not be sucked thru and that helped, also did the airbox mod and cut a hole in the hood above the airbox intake, right in front of the guages and put foam element over it and that also helped, had to rejet up. now it works in the deep pow.
I also had a Bender Cold Air kit on my sled, and going through deep snow it would still bog down. It seems to do the same thing in the really deep stuff with or without the kit, except it likes more fuel with the kit. I would just stay with stock if I were you, as thats what I went back to also. Live and learn I guess.
MountainMax
New member
if your sled has heated carbs, make sure they are turned on for powder driving, that's what it's there for, it keeps the powder from freezing the carbs up on the inside, which makes them feel like the choke is on.
dockter71
New member
Thanks for the input. I'm gonna leave it stock.