We have a Phazer II which has terrible brakes compared to the Hydrolic brakes on the newer sleds. Does anyone have an upgrade on pads or maybe even a hydrolic kit? Al
OnDaTrail
New member
I had one of those. Basically the braking procedure was to let off on the gas. Ran into the back of other people regularly. Anyone remember the early ski-doo's had a scrub pad on the secondary?
Vmax540
VIP Member
I have to wonder if the disk is froze to the jack shaft, pads are wore out or the adjuster/scew is rusty and bound up ? All the Phazers I had/have lock the track with ease.
OnDaTrail
New member
Isn't that brake the one with 2 pins that get pushed in by a rotating plate when you pull the brake handle? Maybe the pins are froze?
Vmax540
VIP Member
Yes...
OnDaTrail said:
PZ 1
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There was a Wilwood hydraulic kit offered by Bender Racing for the Phazer. It would likely be difficult to find one now. You could adapt a hydraulic caliper to the sled - the Bender kit was as adapted Arctic Cat Brake.
To get the best performance from the existing brake: If the cable has not been replaced, get a new one. As Vmax540 said, check to make sure the disc is free on the shaft. Disassemble the caliper and clean the actuating screw threads and then lubricate, Yamaha recommends silicone grease. Don't use too much, make sure none gets near the pads. Probably good to put in new pads, if they are old they may have gotten hard or oil soaked. Best to use genuine Yamaha parts if they are still available. Make sure the adjuster is working well, the brake works much better when it has little play. After reassembly clean the pads and disc with brake cleaner.
If the screw threads or cable is binding - which an old worn cable will do - the lever effort multiplies greatly when the brake is applied.
To get the best performance from the existing brake: If the cable has not been replaced, get a new one. As Vmax540 said, check to make sure the disc is free on the shaft. Disassemble the caliper and clean the actuating screw threads and then lubricate, Yamaha recommends silicone grease. Don't use too much, make sure none gets near the pads. Probably good to put in new pads, if they are old they may have gotten hard or oil soaked. Best to use genuine Yamaha parts if they are still available. Make sure the adjuster is working well, the brake works much better when it has little play. After reassembly clean the pads and disc with brake cleaner.
If the screw threads or cable is binding - which an old worn cable will do - the lever effort multiplies greatly when the brake is applied.
The sled is a 136" .92 with 168 studs it will lock up the track but the braking just isn't like the newer sleds. I am going to replace the pads, and investigate the adjusters along with the cable. I really like riding the ol Phazer in the deeper powder. Al