mdbauer62
Member
As we pray for snow, and get our sleds out to ready them for the upcoming season, here is some advice for M10 owners (and any skid really).
Last year I bought a used metric (pre1999) M10 for $250. Thought I got a deal. But after stripping it I found lots of problems. The rail bolt holes were all egged out, the rear shock was trashed, and all of the bolts and bushings were shot for lack of regular lubrication. $300+ later, I had it fixed up, but now my "great" deal was only a "fair" deal, and I had spent 20+ hours squaring it away. All of the issues could have been prevented by the PO by practicing some basic preventive maintenance:
1. Most important: Keep the bolts tight on the M10. Check them regularly!!! Pay close attention to the front lower shock bolts as them tend to loosen up and the rail holes will egg out quickly (pic 1). Also watch the wheel shaft bolts as the same happens here (pic 2)
2. Grease the pivot shafts with low temp grease. No rocket science here. There are only 4 zerks to grease (6 if you have the "jack"). 2 Upper and 2 lower swing arms, each with one zerk. Keep them greased and the shafts will stay round and will pivot easily.
3. Make sure you don't allow your hyfax to get too thin. I watch the bend in the front of the rails, and the rear most area that seem to get the most wear. My skids PO either let the hyfax wear out, or used the wrong hyfax and look what he did to the rail bottom and lower shock mount....(pic 3 and 4)
4. Have the shocks services every two years or so. Having the fluid changed and the gas recharged will ensure you get the ride that was intended, and possible with the M10. My PO overlooked that and my shocks were junk, and need complete overhauls.
The M10 can help make an "old technology" Viper or SRX much more comparable to some of the new machines, and it takes a otherwise miserable ride in rough trails from brutal to tolerable which adds to the ownership experience.
Just my $.02 here.
Last year I bought a used metric (pre1999) M10 for $250. Thought I got a deal. But after stripping it I found lots of problems. The rail bolt holes were all egged out, the rear shock was trashed, and all of the bolts and bushings were shot for lack of regular lubrication. $300+ later, I had it fixed up, but now my "great" deal was only a "fair" deal, and I had spent 20+ hours squaring it away. All of the issues could have been prevented by the PO by practicing some basic preventive maintenance:
1. Most important: Keep the bolts tight on the M10. Check them regularly!!! Pay close attention to the front lower shock bolts as them tend to loosen up and the rail holes will egg out quickly (pic 1). Also watch the wheel shaft bolts as the same happens here (pic 2)
2. Grease the pivot shafts with low temp grease. No rocket science here. There are only 4 zerks to grease (6 if you have the "jack"). 2 Upper and 2 lower swing arms, each with one zerk. Keep them greased and the shafts will stay round and will pivot easily.
3. Make sure you don't allow your hyfax to get too thin. I watch the bend in the front of the rails, and the rear most area that seem to get the most wear. My skids PO either let the hyfax wear out, or used the wrong hyfax and look what he did to the rail bottom and lower shock mount....(pic 3 and 4)
4. Have the shocks services every two years or so. Having the fluid changed and the gas recharged will ensure you get the ride that was intended, and possible with the M10. My PO overlooked that and my shocks were junk, and need complete overhauls.
The M10 can help make an "old technology" Viper or SRX much more comparable to some of the new machines, and it takes a otherwise miserable ride in rough trails from brutal to tolerable which adds to the ownership experience.
Just my $.02 here.
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yamachuck
New member
I agree should have bought a new one myself
WNYViper
New member
I bought an 02 Edge skid for my SRX, holes were egged out pretty good like yours... took the rails to my buddy to weld up, then took the rails to get powder coated... 500mile ride later, the holes are egged again, I had the bolts tight... problem was I re-used the lock nut and it wasnt locking tight enough, backed off on its own then wore through the powder coat... Im beefing it up this time! Never had this trouble with my ProAction skids though...