smokin george
New member
I"ve got a 2002 Venture 600 triple (red head) and it"s starting to drip down by the water pump. How big a job is it to change the gasket/seal?
thanks george
thanks george
mine too. i have 8700mi on it . 
WNYViper
New member
If it is dripping out of the weep hole, it is probably your shaft seal... pretty easy once you pull the motor, I've heard of guys doing it in frame but it is a PITA... pull motor, unbolt water pump cover, unbolt impeller, remove old seal, install new one, toss it back together...
smokin george
New member
water pump
Thanks! Ouch on the labour part and it could"nt be on the front like an old car.
george
Thanks! Ouch on the labour part and it could"nt be on the front like an old car.
george
TJ500
Member
just hoist the engine up about six inches, perform the repair and then let it back down again... don't need to undo cables nor harness.... a little plumbing, primary clutch and air box need to be removed/disconnected if remembering correctly.. mark engine mounts with a scriber... when put back following these marks, clutch alignment should be as initially... (clean belly while it's up in the air)... tj
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My buddy has the same problem in his 600 SXr, we are going to be doing this as well. So you think it would be easier to take the motor completely out, I figured it would be easier to take the manifold and exhaust off and just do it that way.
No need to pull the motor.
Pull the pipe
pull the y pipe
remove the drain bolt on the top right side of water pump cover.
Remove engine mount
Remove the coolant lines from the water pump cover housing.
Remove all bolts from water pump cover.
Remove impellar bolt, and washer
remove impellar
Clean bolt/shaft/impellar threads
ReInstall using removable loctite good foor water application and a new water pump bolt washer/new seal on the back side of impellar. Use the loctite on the impellar thread/bolt threads/bolt washer. Let sit for 24-48 hrs before adding coolant.
Be sure to bleed all air out of the system by using the screw on the rear cooler and the one on the housing on the cyclinder head. By opening the screw on the rear cooler and raising the rear of the sled, and adding coolant to push out any air in the system, then CLose screw, raise front of sled, open the bolt on the cyclinder head(on top ot the thermostat housing) and add coolant till it pours out of the air bleeder.
Start sled check for leaks, feel all coolers to make sure they are getting warm.
I have replaced the acutal mechanical seal 3 times with the motor in the sled, and it still leaked, there is a thread on here that stats what I wrote above about how to fix the water pump weap hole leak. I just did waht is stated above last week and fixed the problem.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60877&highlight=water+pump
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61644&highlight=water+pump
Pull the pipe
pull the y pipe
remove the drain bolt on the top right side of water pump cover.
Remove engine mount
Remove the coolant lines from the water pump cover housing.
Remove all bolts from water pump cover.
Remove impellar bolt, and washer
remove impellar
Clean bolt/shaft/impellar threads
ReInstall using removable loctite good foor water application and a new water pump bolt washer/new seal on the back side of impellar. Use the loctite on the impellar thread/bolt threads/bolt washer. Let sit for 24-48 hrs before adding coolant.
Be sure to bleed all air out of the system by using the screw on the rear cooler and the one on the housing on the cyclinder head. By opening the screw on the rear cooler and raising the rear of the sled, and adding coolant to push out any air in the system, then CLose screw, raise front of sled, open the bolt on the cyclinder head(on top ot the thermostat housing) and add coolant till it pours out of the air bleeder.
Start sled check for leaks, feel all coolers to make sure they are getting warm.
I have replaced the acutal mechanical seal 3 times with the motor in the sled, and it still leaked, there is a thread on here that stats what I wrote above about how to fix the water pump weap hole leak. I just did waht is stated above last week and fixed the problem.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60877&highlight=water+pump
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61644&highlight=water+pump
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Thanks MM 700, I am hoping that tomorrow we can work on it.
daman
New member
Follow MM 700 instructions to the "T" if you do not want it to leak again,it's a tricky seal and shouldnt be rushed.
smokin george
New member
Thanks again for all the info! Going to tackle it soon before the snow gets too deep.lol 
hastedog
New member
Water pump seal removal
Just a note, had a seal go on my 02 700 MM. It is a PIA to remove without pulling the engine but a couple of tips if you want to try. Follow MM700s instructions, just adding a few tips. To remove the water pump bolt on the bottom, unbolt the airbox under the console, lift the engine about 3/4" with a pry bar(after motor mounts on the front are off) and use a 1/4 flex knuckle with a 10mm to get that invisible sucker off.The water pump cover comes off, and I found I could leave the main discharge line on as it just folded back out of the way(no need to fight putting it back on) On the inner seal, roll the metal lip over slightly on the top with a screwdriver tapping with a small hammer. I then took an awl and carefully drove it through the seal metal, then place a screwdriver under the awl and pryed the seal out. Careful not to damage the shaft with the awl or the housing edges with the screwdriver. To drive the seal back on I used a 1" socket and a small hammer to tap it in, a metric might work better. I did notice the seal was not seating flush on all edges and had to shift my socket to get all edges down even. An uneven seat might cause alot of leakage problems. To put the pump cover back on I had to pry the engine up slightly as it sages with the mount off and that helped get the bolts back in with the coolant line still attached. Torque specs, pump bolts 115 in/lbs, impeller 89 in/lbs, engine mounts 24ft/lbs in my clymer manual. Hope that helps...
Just a note, had a seal go on my 02 700 MM. It is a PIA to remove without pulling the engine but a couple of tips if you want to try. Follow MM700s instructions, just adding a few tips. To remove the water pump bolt on the bottom, unbolt the airbox under the console, lift the engine about 3/4" with a pry bar(after motor mounts on the front are off) and use a 1/4 flex knuckle with a 10mm to get that invisible sucker off.The water pump cover comes off, and I found I could leave the main discharge line on as it just folded back out of the way(no need to fight putting it back on) On the inner seal, roll the metal lip over slightly on the top with a screwdriver tapping with a small hammer. I then took an awl and carefully drove it through the seal metal, then place a screwdriver under the awl and pryed the seal out. Careful not to damage the shaft with the awl or the housing edges with the screwdriver. To drive the seal back on I used a 1" socket and a small hammer to tap it in, a metric might work better. I did notice the seal was not seating flush on all edges and had to shift my socket to get all edges down even. An uneven seat might cause alot of leakage problems. To put the pump cover back on I had to pry the engine up slightly as it sages with the mount off and that helped get the bolts back in with the coolant line still attached. Torque specs, pump bolts 115 in/lbs, impeller 89 in/lbs, engine mounts 24ft/lbs in my clymer manual. Hope that helps...
Excitabletom
Member
Wow! After reading all this, I'm not going to mind as much as I write the check for $250 to my mechanic to fix mine! The previous owner tried to fix it and reassembled it with enough leaks that when I added coolant, I saw it run right out the pump area. Took it in last week and pick it up tonight. Mechanic rode it for 3-4 miles Saturday; said no more leaks! Sometimes the check is easier than working in an un-heated garage when there is snow on the ground!
hastedog
New member
Depends on ability and time, do have a heated shop, mechanics background and it was -30 C today, so good time to stay inside. Took me about 2 hours with pulling pipes,clean up etc. Parts were 24 bucks for the seal kit. Not going to argue though, nice to know if it doesn't work someone else gets to do it again..... 