Viper gearing

Y

yamakazie

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I have an 04 viper s and I'm not much into performance mods because I don't want to take the reliability out of the sled. I would like to get more mid range out of it though. I can out handle all my buddies skidoos through a corner but coming off they take me back every time. Would gearing it down a tooth help or is it not worth the money? Also what is the stock gearing in this sled?
 
pipes are what you're going to need. if you have it setup up right, its just as reliable w/pipes and mods, as it is stock. what ski-doos do your buddies have? if they have revs, gearing alone ain't going to put you out front.
 
I didn't want to put too much money into it this year cause we are in the process of moving and I don't have a job yet. I can get my hands on some gears pretty cheap so I was wondering if it would help and what tooth gear I should go to?
 
300 sounds like a good price if thats all it takes to get a little more ponies in the mid-range but it is more than I'd like to spend right now. Next year will be a better year after we get moved and I find a job.
 
You could change your helix . Many people have good results by just changing helix and leaving the primary stock! But you can always aadd some weight to your primary if you feel like it
 
I would start out with Turk's recommendations from the cluching section. "53/43 Helix, Green Secondary Spring & Everything else stock" I would also drop the top gear down a tooth like you mentioned. These are both low cost changes that are very noticeable (seat of the pants). Some may disagree with the gearing change but it worked well for me. The most important thing is to make sure your shift RPM is between 8500 & 8600 with or without these mods. Vipers are notorious for overreving past of the power band. If this is the case for you maybe just adding heavier rivots to the weights may help. I went to 8dn20 weights to help this and saw a nice improvement but you can add these in steps if you choose. My viper is ported (no pipes) so power pulling the rpm up may be more of a probem for me than you. I have now graduated to heel clickers but the other setup does work well. It's nothing like adding pipes but it's cheaper with less durability & mpg issues. You could always add the pipes later and include some of the above setup.
 
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Thanks for the help. I was also talking to an Ebay seller who used a 21 tooth top gear and a 39 tooth bottom gear. He said it worked well for him but I don't know if he had anything done to his clutch.
I've had two vipers since 02 when they came out and have loved them. I'm just now trying to experiment and learn about some cheaper performance things. Like I said before I'd like to stear clear of pipes and other engine mods. Just looking for a little low and mid range. Thanks again!!
 
In my opinion, for what you are looking for...

Pipes are overkill and even if you get them for $300m you are still going to have to change the clutching drastically, should put in an opti-cool head gasket and add a rear heat exchanger. Total cost closer to $500-$700 by the time you are done.

Stock gearing in the Viper is pretty good for trail from both accel and top speed POV. However the stock clutching leaves a lot to be desired. I put heel clickers and a helix on mine and took it from a 107mph machine to a 114mph machine. If i was you I would start with clutching and build from there. I smoked a 06 MX Z X 800 H.O. with my clicker setup, not sure what your buddies are running.
 
It is an 04 Viper S so it comes with the rear heat exchanger stock. As far as gearing I am willing to sacrifice a little top speed for some on the bottom. most of my riding is in tighter twisties. I think I will try Turk's clutch setup and see what happens. Maybe later try gear change too.
 
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