I'm gonna change the chain case oil here coming up. I quick checked the dipstick this morning and the oil looked more like brown/gray goop!! It really was nasty!! Maybe some seals are junk? But which ones? How can I tell?
Is it much more difficult to change upper or lower seals while I have the case cracked open?
Perhaps the case is just full of gooop cause it hasn't been chagned in so long?
Is it much more difficult to change upper or lower seals while I have the case cracked open?
Perhaps the case is just full of gooop cause it hasn't been chagned in so long?
ottawaair
New member
no need to do any seals unless it's leaking. Just old krappy oil in there. remove the case cover & clean it all out, then you can adjust chain tension while in there.
SWEDE
New member
Your seals are probably fine, especially if you don't see any leaks.The oil should be changed annually, pull the silencer and then the chaincase cover to check things out and clean things up the best you can.Make sure your chain and gears look good and its tensioned correctly.I usually tighten the adjuster bolt finger tight and then back it off a touch before I put the cover back on so I can see whats going on there,Lastly fill it with 8 1/2 ounces of chaincase oil amsoil preferably and you should be good to go.
tntmax
Member
i second that, and Amsoil is the BEST, its a 15 min job...
Yeah, I haven't had any leaks with it, running or not.
Finger tighten the bolt for chain tension..
Lastly..Is there a tq spec for case bolts?
Thanks guys!!!
Anybody got a manual for future jobs....I got one once off ebay and was only half there...junk Don't know who is reputable
Finger tighten the bolt for chain tension..
Lastly..Is there a tq spec for case bolts?
Thanks guys!!!
Anybody got a manual for future jobs....I got one once off ebay and was only half there...junk Don't know who is reputable
tntmax
Member
YUP!! The "BEST"
Lastly, are there tq specs for chain case bolts?
Thanks
Thanks
abumpa
New member
No need to split the case unless you want to. There is a drain plug in the case to let the old oil out.
Just did my SXR the other day.
Just did my SXR the other day.
hereismylife
Active member
abumpa said:No need to split the case unless you want to. There is a drain plug in the case to let the old oil out.
Just did my SXR the other day.
You would not believe the stuff behind in the case yet by just draining it. I drained mine and then pulled the case apart. Thank god I did to much dirt n stuff in there. Even with amsoil there was stuff in there but better looking then yamalube

SRXSRULE2
New member
Corks hard to tell by picture but from what i can see 7 ft lb's on the short bolts, 35 ft lbs on the longer bolts.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I just did my chaincase yesterday and looked it up, I can't remember for sure, but I think the cover bolts are 35 ft/lbs.
hey, thanks a lot guys...
Warning!!! Don't torque the cover bolts to 35 ft/lbs they may not take it. Use only about 17 ft/lbs for the cover bolts. The chaincase to chassis bolts are the ones that are torqued to 35 ft/lbs.
hereismylife
Active member
From what I read
15-16 ftlb long bolts
7-8 short bolts
31 lower gear on drive axle
36 top gear nut
? drain bolt
15-16 ftlb long bolts
7-8 short bolts
31 lower gear on drive axle
36 top gear nut
? drain bolt
The 7 ft/lbs is only for models with reverse. It is for the smaller bolts that hold the reverse assembly together and to the chaincase.
abumpa
New member
j_k_auto said:You would not believe the stuff behind in the case yet by just draining it. I drained mine and then pulled the case apart. Thank god I did to much dirt n stuff in there. Even with amsoil there was stuff in there but better looking then yamalube![]()
Can't imagine how dirt would get in there, and when I drained mine there was no dirt in the old fluid.
First off let me say again that taking the case apart is great if that is what you want to do. I just don't believe it is necessary. If you want to flush out the case I suppose you could run it on the stand with some ATF, than drain it again. Don't think that is necessary either but it is an option.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
Opps! Sorry to give bad info, my book says 18 ft/lbs. I was thinking of the other bolts.
hereismylife
Active member
abumpa said:Can't imagine how dirt would get in there, and when I drained mine there was no dirt in the old fluid.
First off let me say again that taking the case apart is great if that is what you want to do. I just don't believe it is necessary. If you want to flush out the case I suppose you could run it on the stand with some ATF, than drain it again. Don't think that is necessary either but it is an option.
I knew I should of taking pictures for ya. It is not really dirt but the thicker oil with old particles from the chain case because of wear. When you drain it the heavier stuff don't come out because it is to heavy. It will sit right at the bottom near and around the drain but The only way I could ever get it out is to pull the cover and get a can of parts cleaner use the hose it comes with and spray around the lower gear and blow it out with compressed air let it dry then put it back together.
I got 5 sleds and I pulled all the covers off and the same thing.
Most guys would not see the mess because it sit below/behind the lower gears because they are so big to see around.
I guess I am anal but that oil also lubes the top and lower bearings against the frame and you got little bearing seals that don't like dirt. I would rather just pull it clean it and fill it and be done with it.....
Hopefully that all makes sense.
I do not want the bearing to seize because of particles/dirt in my chaincase
