Anybody know or try....

axapowell

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If a Camoplast 9077H Ice Ripper XT (15 x 121 x 1.25) will work on a STOCK 2002 SX Viper?

I'm thinking about a new track instead of studding the one that came on my sled. Here's a picture of what is on it now. I'm not sure what it is. The old owner says it's stock. The sled only has 1114 miles on it, but where I am going to be riding, my friends tell me I'm going to need studs either way. If I go with the Ice Ripper XT do you think I can sell my used track? If so, how much can I get for it?

Thanks!

Dave
 

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So what wears in? The track or the tunnel?

Is there another choice of a pre-studded track?

Is it worth it to change out what I have?

Should I just stud the track that I have?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is kinda new to me and I don't want to make the wrong choice and spend money for nothing...

Dave
 
The lugs on the track will wear in, whereever it hits the tunnel. You can also cut the lugs whereever they hit the protectors. Either get a 1" track and stud it, or get a 1.25" track and don't stud it. I went with the 1.25" Ripsaw unstudded.
 
I have the Ice Ripper XT in my 04 Viper S. I like it, more traction and only adds 2 lbs of weight. The XT uses single ply technology so it is a lighter track. If you want all out traction on ice, stud what you have. If you ride packed trails and a little ditches / powder, the ice ripper xt is a great choice.

If you go 1-1/4" remove all heat exchanger and tunnel protection. Why would you pay $500+ for a track and then let the lugs get ripped of by tunnel protectors and heat exchanger protectors? Then your track is out of balance!!

I have about 1500 miles on this set up and it works great!
 
axapowell said:
So what wears in? The track or the tunnel?

Is there another choice of a pre-studded track?

Is it worth it to change out what I have?

Should I just stud the track that I have?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is kinda new to me and I don't want to make the wrong choice and spend money for nothing...

Dave

There's a 1" track called Ice Attak, it's a SP Hacksaw with the lug studs.
 
drivers

Can go one tooth down on the drivers on the driveshaft and will have a lot more room for the track without rubbing anything. May have to gear differently but will solve the problem. Tom at Hartman Incorporated Nampa, Idaho will be happy to help you out. Worked with him many times on extension kits and clutching. Great guy.
Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the replies. I got under the sled and looked. Man, there isn't a whole lot of room there by the heat exchanger protectors!

It looks like I would have two choices if I wasn't going to do any other modifications at that this point:

1" Pre-Studded Track (Ice Attack)

Stud My Track with a 1.075 Stud

The added weight from the studs will slow the sled down, but give the best traction. The pre-studded track will only weigh a few pounds more then the stock track but have 240 studs and should be OK off the trail as well.

Cost being the factor, if a stud kit for 96 studs (or should it be 144?) is in the area of $300 for a GOOD stud kit or an Ice Attack (9028H) for $450 and you start with a brand new track....Seems like a No Brainer to me.

What would my stock track be worth?

Have I got this right?

Thanks for the Help!

Dave
 
You can go 1.25" if it has lug studs. Or you can go 1" with conventional studs. IMO, I would definitely go with a new track instead of studding the one you have now. You just have to decide whether to go 1.25" or 1". I would go with the 1.25" with lug studs.
 
Thumper1 said:
so how much traction is that xt going to provide in 2 years from now?


Good point Thumper. I wasn't going to comment because his issue with budget seemed to answer his question. I was going to suggest 144 instead of 96 but that would have widened the differences so I kept mum. But being these new tracks haven't been out long, what is the durability.

Are the molded in studs carbide?

Are they replaceable?

Admittedly I've only seen one on a sled at Novi this year but they didn't appear to much more than ice screws with perhaps a longer shank molded into the lug.

I would also assume the longer the lug, the less effective they are on ice.

Ryanryan - your thoughts?
 
So ending the saga....Spoke to Rich at Richmotorsports (recommended on this site) and it looks like I'm going with the Extreme 1.25 with 144 studs in my track. Makes more sense and that way I don't have to wrestle the track on and off...

Thanks again to everyone who responded and helped educate me!
Dave
 
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axapowell said:
So ending the saga....Spoke to Rich at Richmotorsports (recommended on this site) and it looks like I'm going with the Extreme 1.25 with 144 studs in my track. Makes more sense and that way I don't have to wrestle the track on and off...

Thanks again to everyone who responded and helped educate me!
Dave

Is it just me that is confused? Are you buying a new 1.25" track(Extreme) or putting 144 studs in your current track?
 
Keeping the stock track and using 144 Extreme Max 1.25 studs down the middle.

Stainless Steel

80 degree carbide tipped

1" head

5/16 thread

Total length is 1 1/2" giving you 1/4" above a 1" lug or 3/8" on a .92" lug.

I have a .92" lug according to Rich so I will be 3/8" over.

Dave
 

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