New Guy! & a few questions

[BlueMachine]

Hey everyone,

I just purchased my first sled; a 2000 SRX 700 with about 3,300 miles on it. I'm pretty new to snowmobiles, but I do have some mechanical experience. I've been creepin around these forums for a week or so now, and I love this site! There's a lot to learn here.

So I could probably post these questions elsewhere, but everyone is going to be looking at this post so I'll put 'em here anyways

1. I'm cleaning & adjusting the power valves. These have a protective coating on them correct? It looks like it is worn off in large parts on this valve. Is there anything wrong with me running it still? Also note the overall condition of the valve... I'm not sure if that kind of wear is normal but it seems pretty severe if you ask me. Link to pictures below.

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y119/bcschanen/?action=view&current=IMG_0462.jpg

2. I looked up the tutorial on adjusting the valves;

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?p=362711

1. Set servo to full open(lower idle below 900 RPM, not necessary on Viper ER's, just turn the key on), then make alignment marks on the servo (helps later if it moves on you).
2. loosen the cables all the way up @ the servo cable adjusters
3. loosen the two Allen bolts #11 @ the power valve housing and pull it back
4. Insert the 2.5mm Allen wrench’s (or other suitable spacer), go back up to the servo and GENTLY tighten the cable adjusters so it pulls the two P/V housings together, so it just touches the wrench (chosen spacer), then pull out wrench and tighten the two bolts and the cable adjuster lock nut.
5. re-peat on the other two cables

-Step 1: The way I understand it is that I run the engine until it idles to 900rpm OR less, and then mark where the servo is positioned?

-Step 4: I'm missing something. Shouldn't I tighten the cable adjuster locknut BEFORE taking out the "spacer"? I haven't gotten to this part yet, but it seems as though the adjustment would be wrong if I took out the "spacer" before tightening the nut so that the cable doesn't change position.

Thanks guys!

-Blake

 

[blue missile]

nope by removing the spacer you have created free play which saves you valves from pull through. it you recall it says tighten until valve housing contacts head then remove spacer from between cable and housing. not not sure about a coating as many times as mine have been cleaned with brake cleaner or oven cleaner i cant imagine there is any coating left. if there is a coating and its gone all it will do is make it harder to clean. valves are expensive do not replace until broken. i'll look at pic to see condition of your valve.

 

[blue missile]

if the black on you're valves are what you are refering to ask coating then the answer is scrub harder. than is the carbon on the valve the valve should be one color aluminum. if the end has not had the cable pull through the clean and put it back in the engine.

 

[Ding]

Yes they have coating on them when new. Those valves have been cleaned with a hostile cleaner and much of the coating is removed. They will wear a lot faster without the coating, but will still work. You can get used ones usually for $20 - $30 a piece that are in much better condition.

You can drop the rpm's to 900 by simply flipping the starter (many call it a choke) on halfway.

 

[BlueMachine]

if the black on you're valves are what you are refering to ask coating then the answer is scrub harder. than is the carbon on the valve the valve should be one color aluminum. if the end has not had the cable pull through the clean and put it back in the engine.

I was referring to the gray areas that I thought were the coating. The areas that I thought had no coating remaining are the areas where there is wear & tear on the somewhat shiney surface.

Thanks guys.

I have two more questions for ya now! I noticed after starting it (before removing the valves) that there was raw fuel/oil shooting out on the bottom side of the valves between the two separate valve housing pieces. It was happening mostly on just one cylinder, but the other two were moist as well. I had started the engine with choke on full, then backed off to half & then off. The fuel stopped shooting out within 60 seconds. What's going on here? Is that supposed to happen?

And the last question: My track is pretty risky so I want to grab a new one. Could I use say... a 1" ripsaw with studs? What size studs (longest) could I use? I've read a 1.25 track won't work with studs, true?

Thanks again, you guys rock.