Rambunctious
New member
I'm in the middle of the swap out of viper shocks into my 2000 srx
finally got front 4 skid bolts in, but rear two do not line up
does the track tension on the rear need to be relaxed? my thoery is the longer travel shocks' higher ride height creates more of a triangle path for the track, thus needing to relax the track tension?
I can pull the limiter straps in some but at some point, they will be the same as original setup, thus loosing any additional travel????
btw, I have the transfer rods unbolted.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ramb
finally got front 4 skid bolts in, but rear two do not line up
does the track tension on the rear need to be relaxed? my thoery is the longer travel shocks' higher ride height creates more of a triangle path for the track, thus needing to relax the track tension?
I can pull the limiter straps in some but at some point, they will be the same as original setup, thus loosing any additional travel????
btw, I have the transfer rods unbolted.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ramb
DoktorC
Member
Rear axles should be as loose as possible. I also find it easiest to install the front first, then the rear bolts, then the centre...
do it just like the Doc ordered. Thats the only way. Maxdlx
do the front bolts, then the center, then to get the rear to line up put the 14 mm bolts back in the rods and start cranking on them and it should line back up .
DoktorC
Member
to make it even easier is before putting the centre bolt in put the sled back on the skiies then raise the rear off the ground. As you raise the rear of the sled the center shaft is pulled up into position..you just need to make sure it doesn't get hung up on any of the rivets inside the tunnel. Have fun 
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This is where a good old block and tackle work great
Rambunctious
New member
thanks guys. loosening the track did the trick
I have a cherry picker that works perfect. I can ease the sled down millimeters at a time to line things up
we're back together now (on the reer)
I swapped and flipped the shock brackets for the front. left the shock preload settings where they were.
there is some "V" to the radius rods from a front view but not much.
the sled ironically sits more level on the track than the original stock setup.
( that stock setup teetered on the front of the track with 1" gap at rear)
do I want some of this setup ( ie lengthen limiter straps or add preload to center shock) to get good weight transfer or keep the track level? or I could drop the front a little with front spring preload. either way makes the front of the track the teeter point.
any suggestions??
next is a pro inc silencer (if I can find one) , replacing stock red helix with new stock red, and getting the correct 22 tooth gearto replace my 23. then I am ready for the season.
thanks for all the help
Ramb
I have a cherry picker that works perfect. I can ease the sled down millimeters at a time to line things up
we're back together now (on the reer)
I swapped and flipped the shock brackets for the front. left the shock preload settings where they were.
there is some "V" to the radius rods from a front view but not much.
the sled ironically sits more level on the track than the original stock setup.
( that stock setup teetered on the front of the track with 1" gap at rear)
do I want some of this setup ( ie lengthen limiter straps or add preload to center shock) to get good weight transfer or keep the track level? or I could drop the front a little with front spring preload. either way makes the front of the track the teeter point.
any suggestions??
next is a pro inc silencer (if I can find one) , replacing stock red helix with new stock red, and getting the correct 22 tooth gearto replace my 23. then I am ready for the season.
thanks for all the help
Ramb
DoktorC
Member
Keep the track flat on the ground...better traction with less trenching.