bobsled53
New member
I am running 88 carbs in my 91 sled. I have #66Q6 needle jets and #6FL82 needles. I plugged the power jets and screwed the 320 main jets to the bottom of the needle jets. I set the float hight . I am running a RPC single pipe. If I am starting up a hill or going through powder from a start it bogs right down. When going through the mid range up to 6000 rpm it pulls hard. It has 126 and 127 comression. I am thinking of raising the clip and lowering the needle to lean it out; but will this affect the top end? Or do I need to go with a 310 main jet to get it leaner? I put anew pink spring and those plastic bushings were replaced in the secondary. But could the primary clutch be preventing the motor from reaching higher rpm? I have been thinking its a carbueration problem but I would appreciate some ideas or information.
PhazerII72909
New member
I would move your clip up. Watch your plugs. You don't want to pop your motor so early in the winter :-). I don't know much about exciters, I want one though. Try that and see where that goes.
Brit44Aldo
New member
#1 make sure your carb vent lines are no where near the secondary clutch. That is what caused the seizures that gave the exciter a bad name. One hose too close to air turblance and the manufacture unwilling to admit a problem ruined the reputation of a great motor.
Warning, way too technical for the average rider
With jetting, you must start from the bottom and work your way up. Compensating in the mid from a problem at 1/8 is a sure way to cause a seasure when the carb is held "just right". You own the prefect example as only 20% of 87 exciters had a midrange richness casting flaw, but 100% updated to the 88 carbs had left cylinder seizures if the owner attempted a steady 45 mph.
Honda calls the way to determine the low speed "idle drop". This is where we lower the idle and adjust the air screw to acheave the minimum sustainable idle. If the air screw is between 1 and 3 turns, we have the proper pilot jet (or close enough to move on). At 1 turn we need to change the pilot size leaner. If we are over 3 turns, we need to change the pilot richer. One size is roughly 3/4 turns.
Needle diameter and Nozzle size can blead into this, so do not be suprised if you have to make a change here after making the other jetting better.
Needle diameter, nozzle size and slide cutaway effect 1/8 to half throttle most. They also have effect above that. They work in conjunction, so you do not have to replace all 3 in 99% of the cases. With Mikuni, it's normaly cheapest to change nozzle size.
A pipped SRX 700 is an excelent example of something that need a richer nozzle to eliminate a "bogg".
Changing the clip to cure an accelleration problem can result in a steady throttle seazure.
Some times it is worth the 1 or 2 hours labor a shop will charge to put your engine on a dyno. Running sleds on a chassie dyno is not easy for the mech and can tell you where your problems need to be addressed.
A dyno is only a tool. It is not the cure all some think it is.
Warning, way too technical for the average rider
With jetting, you must start from the bottom and work your way up. Compensating in the mid from a problem at 1/8 is a sure way to cause a seasure when the carb is held "just right". You own the prefect example as only 20% of 87 exciters had a midrange richness casting flaw, but 100% updated to the 88 carbs had left cylinder seizures if the owner attempted a steady 45 mph.
Honda calls the way to determine the low speed "idle drop". This is where we lower the idle and adjust the air screw to acheave the minimum sustainable idle. If the air screw is between 1 and 3 turns, we have the proper pilot jet (or close enough to move on). At 1 turn we need to change the pilot size leaner. If we are over 3 turns, we need to change the pilot richer. One size is roughly 3/4 turns.
Needle diameter and Nozzle size can blead into this, so do not be suprised if you have to make a change here after making the other jetting better.
Needle diameter, nozzle size and slide cutaway effect 1/8 to half throttle most. They also have effect above that. They work in conjunction, so you do not have to replace all 3 in 99% of the cases. With Mikuni, it's normaly cheapest to change nozzle size.
A pipped SRX 700 is an excelent example of something that need a richer nozzle to eliminate a "bogg".
Changing the clip to cure an accelleration problem can result in a steady throttle seazure.
Some times it is worth the 1 or 2 hours labor a shop will charge to put your engine on a dyno. Running sleds on a chassie dyno is not easy for the mech and can tell you where your problems need to be addressed.
A dyno is only a tool. It is not the cure all some think it is.
bobsled53
New member
Thanks for the great info. I am going to be getting myhands on a pair of 92 round slides to put on my 91. I will put the 320 mains in and go with 45 pilot jet. per the RPC specs. As far as I see , I was about the only guy putting older parts on a newer sled.and from the info I have seen on this site the later Exciters had agreater chance of surviving seizure problems due to carburation. I beleive the 92 carbs are the same as the 91s. Even after I get the carbs and install them I still have afeeling I could be dealing with a worn clutch part keeping it from hitting higher rpm.
crfbikerboy
New member
I posted this in a few spots, but thses sleds have a in tank fuel filter that seems to clog up fairly easily. If you take it out of the tank, it looks not bad , but the flow is not enough at high rpm. Just went through that no power in the high rpm range. Apperently they are known for this. If you blow it out with a air gun, you will notice a big diffrence in flow and power once you put back together. This is only if you had this problem before the carb swop.