jimfsr
New member
Working on a 87 340 enticer withan ignition problem. It runs, but the spark is intermittent, checked with an auto type timing light. The engine stumbles in time with the light flickereing on both plug wires. Any experience with a similar problem? I have a theory, just trying to get some other input. Also, if anyone has the specs for the coils (ohms) let me know. Thanks, Jim
daman
New member
coil,CDI is where id be looking,sorry no info tho....
Brit44Aldo
New member
both coil wires fire at the same time, it's called a wasted spark system. So, it's never cylinder specific.
First, disable the TORS, it controls your ignition gound.
Then, easiest test is to check the ground by placing a jumper wire from the engine to the frame. You can use car battery jumpers and clamping one end of one to the engine and the other end to the frame.
After that, it's all trouble shooting.
Most times it is the primary coil. Ohm meaters lie, have it tested on a load tester. These machines cost $300 and take less 2 minutes to verify if your $40 coil is good or not. Most shops will charge you 1/4 there labor rate if the coil is good or it is bad and you do not buy a replacement from them. That's fair since you didn't buy a $300 tester. If there not using a load tester, then don't bother as you can buy an ohm tester at radioshack for $9 and do it yourself.
The CDI is a hope and pray. Even the service manual says check all other componets and replace if no other problem found. At that point it is worth a one hour diagnostic fee to have them say what is wrong.
First, disable the TORS, it controls your ignition gound.
Then, easiest test is to check the ground by placing a jumper wire from the engine to the frame. You can use car battery jumpers and clamping one end of one to the engine and the other end to the frame.
After that, it's all trouble shooting.
Most times it is the primary coil. Ohm meaters lie, have it tested on a load tester. These machines cost $300 and take less 2 minutes to verify if your $40 coil is good or not. Most shops will charge you 1/4 there labor rate if the coil is good or it is bad and you do not buy a replacement from them. That's fair since you didn't buy a $300 tester. If there not using a load tester, then don't bother as you can buy an ohm tester at radioshack for $9 and do it yourself.
The CDI is a hope and pray. Even the service manual says check all other componets and replace if no other problem found. At that point it is worth a one hour diagnostic fee to have them say what is wrong.
What Brit says above is very true. I might add that an ohmmeter can still be useful for testing as long as you don't get hung up on the actual numbers matching the specs. You are simply looking for feasible readings. Something around 0.15 ohms for the primary and 3.6 K ohms for the secondary. Most that I have tested with an ohmmeter are outside the spec but in the ballpark. The ones that were dead were way off.
On the other hand, non-moving electric parts do not normally work intermittingly. I suspect a wiring issue (break or short) or issues with the magneto coils. I can get these specs if you need them, but Pulser coil (test White/Red to Black) should be around 10 ohms, the Charging coil (test Brown to Black) around 330 ohms, and the other Charging coil test (Blue to Black) somewhere between 15 and 50 ohms.
I would perform the wiggle test while engine is running. Doing it in the dark can help you see any shorts.
I usually find a wire that is starting to separate or a poor ground as the source of the problem.
I sometimes just swap parts from a donor sled until the problem goes away, this can be the fastest way to fix it. Then I can test the old parts during the summer and either pitch or label and store.
Good Luck and hope this helps.
On the other hand, non-moving electric parts do not normally work intermittingly. I suspect a wiring issue (break or short) or issues with the magneto coils. I can get these specs if you need them, but Pulser coil (test White/Red to Black) should be around 10 ohms, the Charging coil (test Brown to Black) around 330 ohms, and the other Charging coil test (Blue to Black) somewhere between 15 and 50 ohms.
I would perform the wiggle test while engine is running. Doing it in the dark can help you see any shorts.
I usually find a wire that is starting to separate or a poor ground as the source of the problem.
I sometimes just swap parts from a donor sled until the problem goes away, this can be the fastest way to fix it. Then I can test the old parts during the summer and either pitch or label and store.
Good Luck and hope this helps.
have you tried new plug caps? they have an ohm reading as well and are the easyest part to change.
The plug caps should be around 5K ohms unless they are not stock.