I am in the process of getting the top end of my SRX 700 rebuildt. I has about 10000km on it so i figured it was about time. Since i'm new to rebuilding engines i have spent alot of time reading various threads regarding the topic. Thankfully a buddy of mine, who has experience with 4-stroke engines, will help me.
I have bought a fine grade flex-hone, to deglaze and crosshatch the cylinder walls. I could not get hold of honeing oil at my partstore, should i order some or could i substitute with some other kind oil? In that case what would you recommend? Could i use 2-stroke oil?
Regarding the break-in procediure this is what i summed up:
I have bought a fine grade flex-hone, to deglaze and crosshatch the cylinder walls. I could not get hold of honeing oil at my partstore, should i order some or could i substitute with some other kind oil? In that case what would you recommend? Could i use 2-stroke oil?
Regarding the break-in procediure this is what i summed up:
- Use mineral based oil during brake-in
- Mix 1:50 oil in the first tank of gas
- Vary the RPM during brake-in
- No WOT runs during brake-in
- First run after rebuild: Let it idle to operating temperature, then allow engine to cool down
- Second run after rebuild: Short run, 10-15mins, with low RPM, then allow engine to cool down
- After that trail ride with short bursts of medium-high RPM
Just a couple recommendations:
-I have always used a "ball hone" to deglaze any Nikasil two stroke cylinders...two stroke oil will be fine for honing oil [lots of controversy on honing but thats what I do + have never gad an issue]
-after honing and before assembly ensure all parts are absolutely clean!!! like you were cleaning surgery tools!
-if you are only doing the top end and have not had the cases and crankshaft apart and/or the oil pump lines off or apart, I would not recommend adding oil to the fuel tank as you should already know your oil pump is primed and working. More oil in the fuel actually leans the fuel/air mixture and is mainly done to protect against an unprimed or nonfunctioning oil pump.
-break in is very controversial subject, you will get many different opinions. I would just suggest you don't baby it too much, the occassional hard pull actually helps the rings seat and wear into the cylinders .
-most sleds come with and most rebuilt sleds are broken in with good synthetic oils, using mineral oil is not a bad thing...do what you are comfortable with
JM.02c
-I have always used a "ball hone" to deglaze any Nikasil two stroke cylinders...two stroke oil will be fine for honing oil [lots of controversy on honing but thats what I do + have never gad an issue]
-after honing and before assembly ensure all parts are absolutely clean!!! like you were cleaning surgery tools!
-if you are only doing the top end and have not had the cases and crankshaft apart and/or the oil pump lines off or apart, I would not recommend adding oil to the fuel tank as you should already know your oil pump is primed and working. More oil in the fuel actually leans the fuel/air mixture and is mainly done to protect against an unprimed or nonfunctioning oil pump.
-break in is very controversial subject, you will get many different opinions. I would just suggest you don't baby it too much, the occassional hard pull actually helps the rings seat and wear into the cylinders .
-most sleds come with and most rebuilt sleds are broken in with good synthetic oils, using mineral oil is not a bad thing...do what you are comfortable with
JM.02c
Last edited:
Whata sideshow said....make suire everything is clean! And my methoed as taught by enigne builder is that after honing the ONLY way to clean the grit out of your newly formed cross hatches is warm soap and water! Just blow it out after and you are good to go.
I also recommend checking the thermostat. I have seen them toast and aid cold seizing.
Other than that I would NOT mix extra oil....that to me is an old myth.
You sound like you've done your research....careful put in those wristpin clips....don't crack your wristpin bearings and good luck!
I also recommend checking the thermostat. I have seen them toast and aid cold seizing.
Other than that I would NOT mix extra oil....that to me is an old myth.
You sound like you've done your research....careful put in those wristpin clips....don't crack your wristpin bearings and good luck!
get er all back together, i use mineral oil for break in, start it warm up to operating temp check for leaks, if everything checks out good, find a big open field where u can do full speed hard pulls,and let er loose, full wide open passes and let off throttle and coast to stop , usually 15 or 20 pulls like that and your broke in, im sure a lot of people on here will say im crazy, but honestly thats how ive always broke mine in, i usually re ring every 3 thousand miles and have no blow by, and im sure many will say you dont need to rings that often, but thats what works for me, not saying im right or wrong, but ive always believed they run the way you break them in, hard break in =hard runner, imo,