checking the clutch out and trying to see what is wrong bushings?

hereismylife

hereismylife

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Yes I am learning about the clutch by searching anf took the clutches to yamaha to see what they say. Anyhow I am learning alot here but more learning is needed.;)!

I have this ratching/bucking sound engine revs but no go. Started this year. I am trying to figure this out.

Anyhow I was told one of my bushings are bad in the secondary. So I am no trying to figure out how to know if the bushings are that bad? Is there a spec on this somewhere?

I searched but found nothing on the specs of the bushings.

Anyone know this?

Also I was told if it shows copper it is shot.....
 

Well if thats the case with the showing copper thing then all of mine are shot on my primary
 
Thank you.

Yea I have 4 sleds I have to worry about to make them right. I need to start with one and get it straighten out so I can learn from there....
 
update...

I learned that they should not be oval shaped. Also go by how much play there is...who knows...

I did talk to a shop and somehow he found some specs on the bushings in a yamaha service manual. Somehow mine don't show this....oh well I am going to keep my eye open for more info...... ;)!
 
For about $12 a piece, you can buy the 2 bushings for the secondary clutch (they are both the same) from Allen Ullmer. Allen makes these bushings out of an oil-lite material which is self lubricating and will outlast the OEM bushings. You can also buy an oil-lite bushing for the cover of the primary (the bushing in the clutch cover is made out of a fiber material). I made oil-lite bushings for the internal bushing in the primary clutch (need to remove the spire assembly). These bushings will outlast the OEM bushings by many times over. The problem with the worn bushings is as they get more play in them, they allow the moveable sheave to rock on the shaft therefore bind up. The sloppier they get, they more they bind. The belt acts as a wedge to force the binding action. I ran Allen's bushings last season for 2500 miles. I took the clucthes apart this season for a good cleaning and measured the bushings. I could not see any wear from my measurements.
 
rx1jim said:
For about $12 a piece, you can buy the 2 bushings for the secondary clutch (they are both the same) from Allen Ullmer. Allen makes these bushings out of an oil-lite material which is self lubricating and will outlast the OEM bushings. You can also buy an oil-lite bushing for the cover of the primary (the bushing in the clutch cover is made out of a fiber material). I made oil-lite bushings for the internal bushing in the primary clutch (need to remove the spire assembly). These bushings will outlast the OEM bushings by many times over. The problem with the worn bushings is as they get more play in them, they allow the moveable sheave to rock on the shaft therefore bind up. The sloppier they get, they more they bind. The belt acts as a wedge to force the binding action. I ran Allen's bushings last season for 2500 miles. I took the clucthes apart this season for a good cleaning and measured the bushings. I could not see any wear from my measurements.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.... I already orderded the oem bushing for the primary...30 bucks wow....Anyhow I will keep this in mind...thanks again....
;)!
 
I made another set of oil-lite bushings for the secondary clutch on my SRX. Have yet to try them but my thought is the less play the bushings start with the less they will wear since the side load is distributed over a larger surface. The problem with most OEM bushings is they are made with fairly loose tolerances and clearances to ease production assembly to keep costs down. Tighter tollerance parts result is smoother and longer lasting operation. The next time you need clutch bushings, give Allen Ullmer a call. Alos, keep your clutches clean. The accumulated belt dust really adds to the binding and wear, it is very abrasive material.

FYI, The bushings inside the rollers and weights are a plastic material. I rebuilt a clutch which had worn out bushings in the rollers and weights. I made the bushings for these parts using a phosphor bronze material. This material worked poorly, although I made them to provide the same pin to bushing clearance, the quickly began to bind. I remade them using a high temp plastic, vespel, same clearances and they worked fine. I have not tried using oil-lite for these bushings but will the next chance I get. The dam OEM rollers and weights are expensive!!
 
please keep me posted. Once things settle with these sleds I want to order some bushings if they are better for the sled. This way I will not have to worry about them for a long time.... ;)!
 
The bushings (in and SRX and RX1) in the secondary (on the moveable sheave and the helix) will wear into an oval shape since the amount of rotational travel is limited to very little rotation yet the force on the bushings is not symetric about the dia. of the bushing. If you can tell they are oval by "feeling" the amount of play in differenet directions or by measuring them, then they are worn out. The bushings in the moveable sheave AND the helix keep the moveable sheav from rocking about the shaft in the secondary clutch. Do not replace just one bushing, If you do it will wear out much, much quicker than if you replace both. Excessive slop and an oval shape will cause erratic action of the secondary particularly on the upshift when the belt is trying to force the sheaves apart. You say you can accelerate the engine speed but the sled will not move. When that happens, have you taken a look at the position of the belt height in the secondary clutch? I had a similar problem on my RX1. The secondary clutch would often not backshift while I was slowing to a stop. When i went to take off, the belt was sitting low in the secondary. The secondary was binding, I cleaned it up and has worked fine ever since. Check the operation of the primary without the belt on the sled. Gradually accelerate the engine, the primary should close smoothly once the engine hits the engagement speed. Check the rollers and weights for free movement. Tug and push on them. You should not be able to feel any play in these parts. I had a set of weights in which the bushings had shifted slightly out of the weight causing them to bind. You can check the primary bushings for play by taking the spring out, reassembling the cover without the spring and rocking the clutch up and down on the shaft. There should be very little play. Slop or play here will also cause binding. Again, replace the bushings in the primary in pairs, replacing one one worn bushings is useless. KMake sure everything is clean, clean clean. Dishwashing soap and hot water is the best cleaner to remove the grimmy belt dust, much better than solvents. Take your time, check everything out, the clutch system uses simple devices so I am sure you will find the source of the problem.

Also, check the "wrap"f the spring in your secondary clutch. The wrap is the position of the spring in the clutch sheave and the position of the sping in the helix. To light a "wrap" will reduce the amount of force the spring puts on the system.
 
thank you for the help. I did everything you said and cleaned them well with soap and dishwasher heat.....clean I tell you....

I found that the main primary bushing was half way out and hopefully this was the problem...

It is all fixed now and going to test ride today once I pick it up at the dealer. They had to split the primary in half....(200ft) :o|
 
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