racerrob6m
New member
Okay, here is a first for me!!
Am swapping motors in a 90 PhazerII that I acquired that has a "bad bottom end" as I was told when I got the sled. No issues there as I am dropping a 94 Phazer II motor in the 90 chassis as its a real clean & straight sled otherwise.
But, the 90 motor has a Comet clutch on it & when I went to pull it with my regular Yammie clutch puller, the threads in the Comet stripped out!!
Soooooooooo, what tricks are there to "popping" that Comet loose now???
I really dont want to get too brutal with the 90's bottom end just in case its something simple that it quit for the original owner. He was not sure why it quit etc.etc. Compression is good, no real noise when I pull it over so who knows there. At any rate, I have never had a clutch not "pop loose" with the
clutch puller. And the threads on the Yammie puller matched the Comet as it threaded in nice and solid so I know I did not get cross threaded.
Any pointers-thoughts-ideas...besides the SawZ ALL...LOL!!!
Not too worried about saving the Comet as they are hard to get parts for from what I understand.
Thanks, Rob
Am swapping motors in a 90 PhazerII that I acquired that has a "bad bottom end" as I was told when I got the sled. No issues there as I am dropping a 94 Phazer II motor in the 90 chassis as its a real clean & straight sled otherwise.
But, the 90 motor has a Comet clutch on it & when I went to pull it with my regular Yammie clutch puller, the threads in the Comet stripped out!!
Soooooooooo, what tricks are there to "popping" that Comet loose now???
I really dont want to get too brutal with the 90's bottom end just in case its something simple that it quit for the original owner. He was not sure why it quit etc.etc. Compression is good, no real noise when I pull it over so who knows there. At any rate, I have never had a clutch not "pop loose" with the
clutch puller. And the threads on the Yammie puller matched the Comet as it threaded in nice and solid so I know I did not get cross threaded.
Any pointers-thoughts-ideas...besides the SawZ ALL...LOL!!!
Not too worried about saving the Comet as they are hard to get parts for from what I understand.
Thanks, Rob
rob, what comet clutch is it? most take a different puller than the yxr clutch. wait, you already figured that out. if you dont care about the clutch, and at this point i am sure you dont, this is the fun part. as opposed to the sawzall, a die grinder with a cylindrical carbide burr or grinder with a cut-off wheel works better as you have more control. i usually make two relief cuts with the cutoff wheel and creatively use a chisel to remove the clutch, obviously keying on saving the end of the crank. utilize the cuts for the chisel, drive the chisel front to rear, or rear to front, so the crank can rotate with each passing blow. dont try to come into it from the bolt side, as that would be harder on the crank and associated components. the sawzall will make quick work of cutting the clutch off to expose the "hub"? the portion of the clutch thats taper fitted on the crank. but, i am drawn the sparks of the grinder which greatly increases in intensity if you dim the overheads and add a beverage or four. good luck! side note: in that meticulously detailed shop of yours i saw no signs of fire suppression devices. for this particular endeavor, i highly recommend one close at hand.
you could try a red neck trick 1st if you really want to save it. you need a bolt that fits the clutch threads exactly, a roll of teflon tape (has to be tape) and a bit of chain case lube (thicker the better). 1st you tape the bolt up on the threads about 1/4" from the end. next you stand the motor on end so you can fill the end of the clutch and crank with the gear lube. thread the taped bolt in and use an impact to tighten it. should pop right off. always used this trick on polaris clutches as i never had a proper puller at the time.
super1c
Super Moderator
Maim said:
That would work but if im reading right he striped the threads out of the clutch?? I would rethread the clutch then do what maim said. The grease trick works great. Or go for broke and the snowdad method works too.
racerrob6m
New member
Great Ideas !!
Thanks guys for some good ideas!!
Snowdad, your idea will be implemented if I cannot get Maim's idea to work.
And you are right, I do not have any really good fire supression devices in my little shop, so the dirty, nasty, sparky work is done outside of the "neat & clean area" LOL !!!
While I did do some "stripping of the threads" in the Comet clutch, there still is some "meat there" to work with. I mic'd the ID of the threads & now I need to figure out what the thread-tap size is & then see if I can re-tap the threads & go after it from there.
Again, thanks for some good pointers here!!
Rob
Thanks guys for some good ideas!!
Snowdad, your idea will be implemented if I cannot get Maim's idea to work.
And you are right, I do not have any really good fire supression devices in my little shop, so the dirty, nasty, sparky work is done outside of the "neat & clean area" LOL !!!
While I did do some "stripping of the threads" in the Comet clutch, there still is some "meat there" to work with. I mic'd the ID of the threads & now I need to figure out what the thread-tap size is & then see if I can re-tap the threads & go after it from there.
Again, thanks for some good pointers here!!
Rob