downic
New member
I'm just getting back in to snowmobiling after a 20 year hiatus. The last time I owned a sled was in 1986 and it was a 197X TNT440!. This weekend, I picked-up a 1998 SRX700 - it seems about twice as wide as my TNT and looks stunning.
I bought the SRX knowing that the track will need replacing. However, I only expect to ride 300-400 miles in a season and wanted to get some advice on whether the track is OK for another season or if it needs changing asap. I will hopefully be able to post a picture, but i notice that almost all of the lugs on the far right-hand side of the track have been sheared-off and the canvas and rod is exposed. I guess it must have been rubbing against something in the tunnel(?)
Anyway, I don't want to damage myself, the sled or anyone around me by having the track break when I'm zipping along. So please let me know if this is a safety issue. Also let me know if I can probably get another season out of it based on the distance I expect to travel.
Thanks for your help.
I bought the SRX knowing that the track will need replacing. However, I only expect to ride 300-400 miles in a season and wanted to get some advice on whether the track is OK for another season or if it needs changing asap. I will hopefully be able to post a picture, but i notice that almost all of the lugs on the far right-hand side of the track have been sheared-off and the canvas and rod is exposed. I guess it must have been rubbing against something in the tunnel(?)
Anyway, I don't want to damage myself, the sled or anyone around me by having the track break when I'm zipping along. So please let me know if this is a safety issue. Also let me know if I can probably get another season out of it based on the distance I expect to travel.
Thanks for your help.
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Ding
Darn Tootin'
The rods are showing and may come out at speed. Or it could stay together for quite a while. It is a gamble.
However, that is not normal wear. It appears that the track was way out of alignment or you may have broken suspension parts.
If you are going to run anywhere near the speed potential of that sled (100+ mph) I would not only swap the track, but I would check the suspension out closely and replace any bearings and bushings that are worn out.
You can get a nice take-off or used track for $150-$300.
However, that is not normal wear. It appears that the track was way out of alignment or you may have broken suspension parts.
If you are going to run anywhere near the speed potential of that sled (100+ mph) I would not only swap the track, but I would check the suspension out closely and replace any bearings and bushings that are worn out.
You can get a nice take-off or used track for $150-$300.
super1c
Super Moderator
Congrats and welcome back to the seen. Nice choice in sleeds. From what i can see from the pick it does have some fair damage. Your really need to take the whole skid out and go through it top to bottom and put on a new track. So a search and youll be reading till december. But as long as their are no tears in the track or holes i would ride it as is if your just looking to get another season out of it. But remember it is a crap shoot and ultimately its your choice. Welcome to ty! CCC
super1c
Super Moderator
Beat me to it DING!!!!!!!!!
crewchief47
Lifetime Member
What skid is that? I thought the SRX was just the short travel version pro-action? That thing looks more like a doo or poo skid......
Ding
Darn Tootin'
Good catch Ian, I didn't even look at the skid. It doesn't look like a SC10 (any version), that pretty much leaves a Polaris skid or a previous generation skid. I don't think it is an AC skid.crewchief47 said:What skid is that? I thought the SRX was just the short travel version pro-action? That thing looks more like a doo or poo skid......
Sideshowrob
New member
It looks like a Polaris skid, but the rear Idler looks like AC. That top Guide? Idler looks crooked and small. I'm gonna say don't go too far until you've gone through that entire rear suspension. Better yet, try and find an original SRX rear skid. It's not long travel, but worlds better than a TNT.
i vote AC skid. looks like late 90's ZR skid? I'm no ditch pickle specialist but its gotta be better than the no action. I would run the track as long as there are no holes or signs of further delamination. I've run worse
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I was just going to ask what skid that is, but I see you guys beat me to it. It does kinda resemble a late 90s AC skid... (that's from memory of course, and I'm no specialist either). But ditto what everyone else said, take that skid and check it real good for abnormal wear.
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
sleddineinar said:I was just going to ask what skid that is, but I see you guys beat me to it. It does kinda resemble a late 90s AC skid... (that's from memory of course, and I'm no specialist either). But ditto what everyone else said, take that skid and check it real good for abnormal wear.
Based on the rear scissor spring/slide and idler I'd guess mid '90s AC. Agreed also that the track wear is a bit abnormal perhaps due to an incorrect installation of the off brand skid. If it were mine I'd pull the skid, go through it and check for proper mounting location. Once you have the skid out you may find where it was rubbing.
I also noticed no HX protectors and the rear of the belly pan is beat up pretty good.
Also agreed that if you plan to reach it's potential top speed you may want to swap tracks. It doesn't look like the stock Yoko (IIRC - clipped every other vs. every third and the lugs don't look stock).
Someone has a summer project...
Welcome to TY
downic
New member
Thanks for all the replies and advice. I wanted a project for the summer - and it looks like I have one! I will start by pulling the skid and cleaning it up. Good catch on the skid - the previous owner told me it was from a 2001 ZR800 Arctic Cat - does that look right?
I have posted a couple of more photos. A couple of things I noticed that don't seems to look right:
1) The rod that comes down from the wound spring doesn't have a nut on it.
2) The large rear shock doesn't have a coil-over spring. From the picture, it also looks like it might be leaking. Would anyone know a way to tell if it is still good or if it needs rebuilding or replacing?
I also noticed that the belly pan has a couple of small cracks and a hole the size of a quarter under the clutch. The aluminim skid plate has a few dings and loose rivets too. I did a search and got the impression that these weren't critical items - but please let me know if I should be worried about them - I have posted pictures.
Thanks to all for the great advice - I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty!
I have posted a couple of more photos. A couple of things I noticed that don't seems to look right:
1) The rod that comes down from the wound spring doesn't have a nut on it.
2) The large rear shock doesn't have a coil-over spring. From the picture, it also looks like it might be leaking. Would anyone know a way to tell if it is still good or if it needs rebuilding or replacing?
I also noticed that the belly pan has a couple of small cracks and a hole the size of a quarter under the clutch. The aluminim skid plate has a few dings and loose rivets too. I did a search and got the impression that these weren't critical items - but please let me know if I should be worried about them - I have posted pictures.
Thanks to all for the great advice - I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty!
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snowdad4
VIP Member
you definately need to rebolt the torsion spring slider, surprised it hasnt fallen off. shock requires no spring and it is rebuildable and needs it. looks as though the chaincase may have exploded at one time, hence the holes under it. the bellypan rivets appear to have been changed and its hard to tell from the picture, but they look like aluminum mandrels. replace the loose ones with a steel mandrel rivet.
jaydaniels
VIP Member
Might just be the angle of the picture but almost looks like the fron Heat Exchanger is missing.
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
snowdad4 said:you definately need to rebolt the torsion spring slider, surprised it hasnt fallen off. shock requires no spring and it is rebuildable and needs it. looks as though the chaincase may have exploded at one time, hence the holes under it. the bellypan rivets appear to have been changed and its hard to tell from the picture, but they look like aluminum mandrels. replace the loose ones with a steel mandrel rivet.
X2 - I'd also add that the torsion/scissor spring slider looks worn.
Ding
Darn Tootin'
There is a company that repairs tracks, I don't know if this one qualifies.
After seeing more of that skid, I would replace it. If you are patient you can find good ones for $200 or less.
After seeing more of that skid, I would replace it. If you are patient you can find good ones for $200 or less.
downic
New member
Thanks for the tips.
I still need to learn how these suspensions work but is there any chance that the unbolted torsion spring slider on the right hand side might be responsible for the broken lugs on the same side of the track?
I still need to learn how these suspensions work but is there any chance that the unbolted torsion spring slider on the right hand side might be responsible for the broken lugs on the same side of the track?
snowdad4
VIP Member
if that were the case, the damage would be inside the track. that damage is external like its rubbing something inside the tunnel or the track could have just spun on something on the ground.
looks like Joe Taco has been here. those rivets mount your heat exchanger and looks like they all broke loose at one time.this also gives strength to your steering post mount. make sure when you move the handlebars that the front exchanger isnt flopping around in the wind. I hit a rock one time and cracked the bottom of the chaincase which looked very similar to that hole. Might want to check that out. the skid should be fine with some rebuilt shocks and TLC. You got nothing but time