15" wide track is the easiest way to get out there without much modding of the skid, they weigh alot more then the 10.5" wide but youll get good performance out of em. For ski's any brand will be ok.
I see your asking other questions, for starters just run your winter trail clutch set up, stock jetting and simply remove the airbox. If your only running 660-1/8th mile you can gear down some and lean out the jetting a bit and gain performance. 1320-1/4 mile youll need the extra fuel on topend, taller gearing.
The single biggest thing youll do to get it fast on asphalt will be tune the skid!!! You want to have as much of the track touching the ground as possible from the drivers to the rear idlers, you have to leave about 3/8-7/16" clearance under the driveshaft so you wont bend it if there is a bump somewhere. Get the skid to lay flat, no clearance under the rear wheels when sitting on a garage floor. I use a work light and lay it on the opposite side of the sled, lay your cheek on the floor and see if you can see light under the track to floor contact, if you can, you need to work on that area of the skid. You only need very,very little movement in the skidframe, so its gonna be stiff and flat. Every 1/10th you can remove from your 60ft time will be 2/10ths off your et if your running the 1320-1/4 mile!
I see your asking other questions, for starters just run your winter trail clutch set up, stock jetting and simply remove the airbox. If your only running 660-1/8th mile you can gear down some and lean out the jetting a bit and gain performance. 1320-1/4 mile youll need the extra fuel on topend, taller gearing.
The single biggest thing youll do to get it fast on asphalt will be tune the skid!!! You want to have as much of the track touching the ground as possible from the drivers to the rear idlers, you have to leave about 3/8-7/16" clearance under the driveshaft so you wont bend it if there is a bump somewhere. Get the skid to lay flat, no clearance under the rear wheels when sitting on a garage floor. I use a work light and lay it on the opposite side of the sled, lay your cheek on the floor and see if you can see light under the track to floor contact, if you can, you need to work on that area of the skid. You only need very,very little movement in the skidframe, so its gonna be stiff and flat. Every 1/10th you can remove from your 60ft time will be 2/10ths off your et if your running the 1320-1/4 mile!