I know this is a yamaha slad site but i will be rebuilding my 350 4 bolt main motor, for my 1990 chevrolet silverado 2WD that i am currently about to re paint it. i want to build the motor with lots of power, havent desided on set up i will go with yet, if any opinions for a fast strong motor set up for the 350, shot. It has to be street legal and driveable. Now for the tranny, id like to drop in a 6 speed transmition, manual, is their a tranny that will bolt up to a 350 small block? (im not scared to be doing some modifications to make it work. Just looking for the best tranny for lots of power to the rear wheel)
Hopefully i can put up some picture soon of the truck , how it is now, work on the body, and when its done.
If any one have suggestion, let me know.
Hopefully i can put up some picture soon of the truck , how it is now, work on the body, and when its done.
If any one have suggestion, let me know.
ottawaair
New member
stroke the 350, maybe a 383. I think the only 6 speed likely to work will be from a newer camaro/corvette. If it were mine, I would go low compression & put a supercharger on it, you just cant beat boost!
staggs65
Moderator
x2 on that, dollar for dollar its the best bang for buck with a sbc. rotating assemblies are relatively cheap, especially if you find out you need a crank or rods anyway when you inspect everything
madzx2
Member
x3 you can get a complete 383 rotating assembly for the same price sometimes cheaper than a 350 assembly. i would like to someday go to a 383, lots of tourque= FUN!
Yeahh, to stroke it to a 383, dont i need a machine shop? and for the supercharger, if i drive the truck all year, wouldnt a supercharger put the engine in shock because of the colled blast in to the motor when the motor is already running cooler then in the summer. I was thinking of installing turbos, i know it would do the same, but thats what i had in mind of doing. and a newer tanny would work on a 350 small block, because i thouht cameros ran 5 speeds, and corvettes had 6.0L or bigger?
madzx2
Member
some blocks do not need clerancing but you would have to mock up the rotating assembly and look to see if everything clears.
**** wasting the money u could prob pick up an 8.1(572)from a 2500hd cheap from a junkyard about 390hp and a lil over 600ft lbs just some basic bolt on would have that beast destroying tires and there is no need for the six speed umless your tracking it the ratios will prob be too short for a high hp build on the street ud be better off with an auto with a stall cuz im guessing itll prob be doing more dragging than autocrossing
madzx2
Member
8.1L is a 492 ci
reason for building the 350 is because the block i got is out of my first truck i bought a year ago, dont want to let go of it, its a strong motor and would be sick to build. and the truck id like to keep a 350 in it. im hoping to buy the 454ss in a few years, i just dont want to clown one. i know it sounds stupid but its what id like to do.
if you buy the 383 kit, usually it just bolts in without changing pistons. the clearanceing is for the crank in the bottom end. i looked into one but as i had a 305 to start with it was too much money.
valin
Active member
Eric, it's pretty hard to beat buying something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEV...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eade84be1
Small blocks can be purchased pretty cheap these days....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEV...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eade84be1
Small blocks can be purchased pretty cheap these days....
ottawaair
New member
That's a pretty good deal for a 7 year/ 70,000 mile warranty., fairly mild motor though.
We'll see what i do. probably wont start a motor build up, or buy motor till the winter. for now, i have to shot the truck with some paint, do my dual flowmaster exhauts and hopefully buy some nicer brakes lights since my truck is blacked out and the lights are after market chromes. I dont like chrome on a truck .
I had a 383 stroker back in the late 80's it's a great engine combo. Lingenfelter Racing built it - 475 hp on pump gas!
im not sure what ill do, i also have a other option, i can get a free 454 big block and transmition, not sure what tranny, out of an old RV i think its a 1983 RV. I can rebuild that motor and drop it in.
probably is a turbo 400. 700r4 should bolt right up to that no problem as gm uses the same tranny bolt pattern on all there v8 trannys.
ryanryan
New member
Like others have said, go with the 383. They make really good power and lots of torque.
I spent $3500 on my 383 short-block 2 years ago. This past winter, I put on Brodix aluminum heads, and a mild roller cam, and it made 574 hp, and 531 tq. It's in my Chevy II that I drag race and it has gone 10.34 so far this year. Not bad for a N/A small-block!! Oh, and the best part.....it made that much power on Sunoco 94 pump-gas!
I spent $3500 on my 383 short-block 2 years ago. This past winter, I put on Brodix aluminum heads, and a mild roller cam, and it made 574 hp, and 531 tq. It's in my Chevy II that I drag race and it has gone 10.34 so far this year. Not bad for a N/A small-block!! Oh, and the best part.....it made that much power on Sunoco 94 pump-gas!
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auji700triple
New member
get a dodge
ExpertXViper
New member
Just a food for thought if you plan on piecing together a 383......Search for the best deals on parts, this place has some of the best deals Ive seen on pretty much everything...www.flatlanderracing.com.... Im actually in the process of collecting parts for my 08 Silverado 4x4 with the VVT 6.0L/L76/364 cu. in. which I plan to bore/stroke a LQ9 block to 408 cu. in. with either Callies Compstar or K1 Tech.(Carrillo) Crank/Rods and 4.030in. Mahle pistons. Which between the Bottom End/Cam/Head combo Ill easily be in the 500hp range on pump gas and be well suited for a 100+ shot of NOS I plan on adding later. So far Ive only collected the following: LQ9 Block, Clevite Main and Rod Bearings, GM Perf. Lifters, Comp Cams Pushrods, and all the necessary gaskets to assemble the engine. But I still have a long long list of stuff I need and all the small stuff adds up real quick, just the ARP Main and Head bolts are $300. But itll all be worth it in the end.