trouble removing bolts and flywheel...help!

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
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68
Location
Howden ,Manitoba,Canada
becoming a little difficult disasembly.The torgue limiter hex bolts gave me headaches.Had to grind the head with 2 straight edges to put 1/2 inch wrench on it and got it to turn,Need a new bolt for there.Then the bracket for the limiter,the 2 hex bolts on the 2 halves of the cases wouldn't move either.Used a little heat and got one to turn,stripped the other one.But at least can split cases with the one bolt removed.
On to the flywheel end nut.Which way to turn to undo it...clockwise I assume.Have to use impact,but there is no way of holding the damn shaft from turning.Don't want to damage the crank or bearings with impact movement more then neccessary.What is the trick here.Have that feeling it is going to get harder yet.If I can't remove the nut and flywheel,then the seal are staying put and I will only complete top end.... :o| #$%&*
 
When i took mine offi used the advice of one of the guys here. Granted my engine was in the sled but aplies the same. Leave clutch on or put it back on. Use the ol broom handle through the clutch to hold the crank still. Turn up your impact wrench to max or around 400lbs of torque. Mine maxed at 350. Use max psi rated for your gun on your compressor. Then put in on the bolt and it shoul spin right off without any effort. I was told the crank can handle the twist just not the up and down from trying to use a wrench with a breaker bar and such. Use same method for removing the flywheel with puller. Make sure you use the best grade bolts you can get for the puller and grease the screws good and should pop right off. This worked for me first try after messing with it for 2 days doing my (the wrong) way. CCC
 
-flywheel bolt loosens normally...counter clockwise
-I leave the recoil cage on the flywheel and use a long 3/8" extension engaged in the notches to hold the flywheel in place then use a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the nut

CAUTION: DO NOT USE AN IMPACT ON THE FLYWHEEL NUT AS IT COULD DAMAGE THE MAGNETS IN THE FLYWHEEL!!!

-you can not remove the flywheel without a proper puller...don't even attempt without one
-to remove/loosen the recoil cage allen head bolts from the flywheel I heat them then use an old 3/8" ratchet with a new snug fitting allen socket[can't remember the size right now but I think its an 8mm] then I tap the head of the ratchet with a hammer while turning the ratchet, the bolts usually loosen easily this way

Hope this helps
Bob
 
The flywheel puller I use is meant for two strokes and has a place for a wrench to hold it, as the threaded centre bolt is tightened down. It is fairely thick[3/4 -1"] and I use the recoil hold down bolts to secure it to the flywheel via the recoill cage bolt holes. Again I have never used or needed an impact on the puller...a breaker bar and sometimes light tapping has always done the trick.
Bob
 
I got everything out.I noticed I assumed that motor spun clockwise,but one look at the water pump fin told me different.I did use an impact,but gentle while holding the flywheel with a rubber strap device.It turned off no problem.The 3 screws came off easily to.I have one off them pullers,applied it and not even 2 seconds and I heard it pop.I still couldn't pull it off wandering what the hell.It was the magnets holding it,cannot believe how much power them magnets have.Stator is off also.

Now my next question is..do I turn the motor upside down in order to remove case bolts.How do I support everything with case/cylinder bolts sticking up and the crankshafts..with blocks I assume.Is there a sequence to removing bolts and once done I just tap with a mallot to get things loose?Anything else to know,will anything fall out when I lift the bottom case off?.Hey this is my first time..so doing it nice and slow..lol if you know what I mean.Thanks for the input guys,evrything helps at this point.
 
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Good work so far!
-turn the engine upside down and block it if necessary to keep it stable
-bolts are numbered..not a bad idea to loosen them in numerical sequence, but not really necessary
-make sure you get all the bolts out..easy to miss a couple around recoil and outside case edges
-there are only a few spots you can gentle nudge the cases apart, one by where the motor mount bolts on, one in the centre, and again by the recoil end of the case, they look like a little notch in the case maiting surfaces but be careful and DO NOT PRY anywhere the maiting surface seal!
 
I tried a 5 gallon pail and it drops down nicley on everything,so I'll place it on the floor and turn motor upside down onto it and it will be stable.Also going to the shed and getting one off those plastic crates that I have,it is square and may fit nicely also.Wish me luck.
 
the red crate works great,motor is really stable.Got another mouse in my trap..still alive caught by the taila nd leg.Released it to my dog to finish it off..lol..Now I could of sworn I out 3 traps in the shed,one seems to be missing...that scares me... :shock:
in the process of removing them case bolts.... ;)!
 
she is done,was pretty easy to.Bearings are snug and roll nice.So do I go and clean the cases inside and out really good,install new seals and re set the cases.What do you use for gasket between the 2 cases.I don't have yamabond,but will the copper gasket stuff do.I should wash out the bearings good to.Do I use just brake cleaner or gasoline when cleaning everything.
 
Here are some pics again...
 

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the outside bearings should be good to reuse eh.They spin good and snug.I have to remember which way to position the 2 bearings when going back in.I noticed the 3 holes on them,they must face up towards the cylinders in order to have oil drop down into them right?
 

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bluemonster1 said:
she is done,was pretty easy to.Bearings are snug and roll nice.So do I go and clean the cases inside and out really good,install new seals and re set the cases.What do you use for gasket between the 2 cases.I don't have yamabond,but will the copper gasket stuff do.I should wash out the bearings good to.Do I use just brake cleaner or gasoline when cleaning everything.
Click to expand...

You've come this far, put it in set of v-blocks and check the specs on it. All I have is the specs for 98-99, but it shows the points to measure. You'll have to double check the specs for your year.

As you can see the tolerances are so tight that you can't possibly tell without putting an indicator on it.
 

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Those large PTO bearings are only on the 2000 + up SRX + Viper cranks. If you look at the cases you will see an alignment pin that the centre hole lines up with, the other two holes line up with oiling passages...make sure you get it in right, Do not use copper gasket for crankcase sealant. If you can't get YamaBond[Wildwood sports always used to have it] you can use a Locktite sealant[can't remember the number] do a search and you will find info on this. Canadian tire sells "Permatex Ultimate Grey MotoSeal" that is also designed to seal crankcases.
Bob
 
very informative Bob...It is a good thing I decided to change the seals.I was wandering why the mag side is very dirty all around and the old seal is filty to.The PTO seal side is clean.I noticed a ring like material loose ahead of the mag seal before I removed it.I thought it was a o-ring for the stator/flywheel to butt up against.I took the new seal and compared.I wiped the old one really good inside the groove,a little piece of rubber lip fell out and broken.Seems like the old mag seal was on its way out.The thing I thought was an o-ring ...was actually the spring like circular ring that is fitted on the inside of the seal lip.The piece that fell out was the edge of the lip .Man lucky me,oil was starting to seep thru and next air would suck in...close one
 

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no dont use permatex type silicone. You need the Yamabond or similar product and use it very sparingly dont want a bunch to squeze out into the inner case. I know Dennis Kirk sells something similar to Yamabond I can look and give you the name of it I have been using the stuff for a couple of years.
 
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