Where is the best place price wise to get the powervalve tool that you plug into the harness?
dont waste your money u dont need one ....all you need to do is remove servo cover ...turn idle screw down til rpm drop below 900 ..and servo opens full ...turn off and use a marker to mark pulley and servo backing plate ...and adjust from there ....if its a viper er all you do is turn the key on and servo opens automatically mark pulley and backing plate turn off key and adjust ...
jminor1 said:
While it's true you don't need one if the sled is running, you do need it if you have things apart and/or want to adjust the valves flush with the port (with the pipes removed).
I'll post a pick of the one I made but you're basically applying 12 volts DC to the test connector. If I'm not mistaken the two wires at the connector are black and red so it's fairly straight forward. I think even 9 volts would work.
is there a thread on setting them with the exhaust flanges off?
there is 2 ways to get proper valve setting ....2.5 yo 3 mm spacing .......or remove exhaust and reach up in there to do flush to port method ....either way you got to get the servo motor in the full open position ....idleing motor below 900 rpm will open servo fully ..vipers wit electric start just turn key on ....or there is a tool they sell to plug into the harness somewere to open valves but if this method is done wron you can fry your cdi box so idle below 900 is the best method unless you have a viper er
great I have it all apart right now and wanted to do it but you are saying I need to assemble it, run it and then tear it back down to set it?
open servo cover might have been marked already ....but no if you want you can build the tool your self and use a battery and power the servo and make it open ....2.5 mm spacer between powervalve housing is the easy way ..dont have to disassemble to set unless u r doing flush to port and honestly thats more work than you need to do ...
jminor1 said:
The test connector on my '01 is on the left side near the fuel tank outlet and has a red and a black wire going to it. Apply 12 volts (I understand that a 9 volt battery will also work - B+ to red/B- to black) to those two wires and the servo will turn. Remove the 12 volt source, mark the servo wheel to the servo housing for future reference (in the event you move it while adjusting the cable). Loosen the screws that attach the cable to PV housing, adjust the cable end at the servo until you get the desired clearance between the cable housing and PV housing (2.5-3 mm including the gasket), tighten the screws, check the mark on the servo wheel to ensure it hasn't moved, install the servo cover and you're done.
I check the adjustment during my annual PM while the pipes are off. As Yamahead suggests, you can perform this adjustment (setting the servo wheel) after it's back together by turning the idle down below 900 rpm. I like to do it while everything is apart and adjust for flushness within the port but I'm silly like that. The shop manual procedure described above will get you the same results.
I made up the tester out of a couple of terminal pins that fit the female terminals whithin the test connector, soldered to a couple wires (red and black) with two aligator clips on the other end that attach to the external battery. I also installed an inline fuse on the B+ wire.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Ride.Race.Live
New member
I used a 12V batterie and brings the servo to open right away... and then just use alan keys... very easy... just make sure you dont over tighten
got it and set them at 3mm, thanks all!!
bluemonster1 said:
Worthless to some perhaps, but the original poster seemed to grasp it.
question about the method with the 2.5 spaces. Once you idle the motor down to 900 and mark it, do you shut the motor off? I assume the motor is shut off when you are adjusting the valves? What is the purpose of the marking on the servo and housing?
I also read the tech pages and it mentioned nothing about turning the motor off. This will be my first time adjusting them. I have a 2003 viper non er.
Thanks,
Ben
I also read the tech pages and it mentioned nothing about turning the motor off. This will be my first time adjusting them. I have a 2003 viper non er.
Thanks,
Ben
super1c
Super Moderator
Yes shut the motor off. You mark it because when you are moving the cables around and such for adjusting the servo can move on you. This way you know where to turn it back too. Where you at in MI? CCC
My sled is new New Baltimore and I live in warren. So when you shut the motor off the servo should stay open as if you were idling below 900 rpms correct? Then, when you reset the idle the powervalves close until your motor revs up to a certain rpm and open again.
Thanks,
Ben
Thanks,
Ben
super1c
Super Moderator
Yup, when you idle it down to 900 you will hear and see the motor turn then just shut it off and mark for ref. CCC
BAMT700 said:
I'm just South of New Baltimore on the Salt River. PM me if you'd like some help.
Thanks for the info guys, I will def. PM you snomofo if I have any questions or need help.
bluesexrider
New member
Ok i've read all the posts and tech specs on adjusting the PV's. This is my first time and I have one question and I think I can then do it....I cannot run the sled right now so my only option is to connect a 12V battery to the servo motor to open it. So here is my question. What 2 wires do i connect to the battery? There are 4 in the connector, Black with red stripe, Black with yellow stripe, yellow with green stripe and a white with black stripe. Might be a dumb question but I just don't want to mess anything up.
bluesexrider said:
PM sent.